An Eccentric in the Alps, the Story of the Rev. W. A. B. Coolidge, the great Victorian Mountaineer, by Ronald W. Clark. London: Museum Press, 1959. 217 pages; 23 ills. Price 35s.Hero of many a peak and pass,Not born to die in a crevasse;A scholar,...

Resurrection Wall, Pinnacles National Monument. Ruprecht Kammerlander and Anton Kuruza climbed the impressive Resurrection Wall in Juniper Canyon on Easter Sunday. The rock is a great, shadowy mass a half-mile up the High Peaks Trail. Few Pinnacle...

North Chasm View Wall, Link-up of Stoned Oven and Air Voyage. It was reported that Jeff Hollenbaugh and Mike Pennings linked up Stoned Oven (5.11c) and Air Voyage (5.12a), both on North Chasm View Wall, in a day, freeing everything apart from the ...

Fairchild Mountain, Haunch Bauncho Buttress, East Face. On September 26 and 27, Peter H. Robinson and I completed this 14-lead, 1000-foot climb, which took two days because of a late start. Route finding was interesting and the rock was good. We f...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Oregon, Cascades of Oregon, Three Fingered JackOn August 5, 1994, three of us (Katie, Lyn, and myself) hiked into Summit Lake off the Pacific Crest Trail to set up camp. On Saturday morning we hiked up to the mountai...

Gauntlet Peak, Baffin Island. In August Ken Hunter, Frank Gordon and I climbed in the Pangnirtung Pass region. Base Camp was established at 500 feet below the west buttress of Gauntlet Peak. Advanced Base was made two days later at 2500 feet in th...

Dabneyland, Various Ascents. This area is just outside and south of Monument Basin. It is named after Walt Dabney, who began the Canyonland’s “No New Fixed Anchor” policy in 1995. The policy was designed to stop any new climbing development, but I...

Argonaut Peak, South Ridge was climbed on May 30, 1977 by Will Parks, Bob Loomis, Dan Schnell and Dave Seman. (NCCS II F6.)David Seman, Unaffiliated

Red Sentinel, Southwest Dihedral. The fourth route on this slender pinnacle was climbed July 27 by Dave Ingalls, Charles Bookman, and Roy Kligfield. After the standard approach from the south, the overhanging inside corner on the southwest side wa...

Ascents of Imje Tse and Ama Dablam. We ascended Imje Tse (20,305 feet). The summit was reached by Don McIntyre, team leader, David Bridges, Mattie Thomson and Minga Dorje Sherpa. We then went on to ascend Ama Dablam (22,494 feet) via the Southwest...

Sentinel Rock, North Face, Flying Buttress Direct. In June Chris Fredricks and I established a new route on the north face of Sentinel Rock. Our route followed a huge chimney system in the center of the Flying Buttress, the 800-foot high buttress ...

TABLE IMountaineering Accidents and Mortality Rates United StatesReported man-mountain days/year, 1953-1954 18,722Accident Rates per 1000 reported man-mountain days0.98Mortality rate per 1000 reported man-mountain days 0.60Table I summarizes the o...

Narao Peak, Canadian Rockies. Yvon Chouinard and I climbed the southernmost of two 800-foot ice gullies on the east face of Narao Peak, south of Kicking Horse Pass.Peter T. Carman

Aconcagua, Attempt by Blind Climber. In December, Erik Weihenmayer, a blind climber, made an attempt of Aconcagua by the normal route, reaching 1,500 feet shy of the summit with guides and a film crew. We went for the summit on our 17th day on the...

Mount Deborah, Attempt on East Buttress. (This extraordinarily difficult climb was also attempted in 1964 by a group from the Harvard Mountaineering Club. See A.A.J., 1965, 14:2, pp. 405-6—Editor.) Our expedition got off to a poor start with the l...

Northern Rockies Section. The Northern Rockies Section started out the year with its 2nd annual Sun Valley Dinner on January 7 at The Cellars Pub. Jamie Laidlaw, a Hans Sari Grant Recipient, presented a show of his most recent exploratory trip to ...

Grosshorn, North Face, Berneroberland. On September 2 and 3 Phillip Fanchon and I climbed the north face of the Grosshorn by a new route. We followed the Welzenbach route through the first rock band and then, instead of traversing left toward the ...

Alpamayo and Santa Cruz, New Routes. On June 15, Kenzo Suzuki (Japan) left Base Camp (4850m) at 11 p.m. and climbed the 1979 Tomo Cesen route on the southeast face of Alpamayo until he reached the Andes route. The next day, he climbed original gro...

Luyacpani, Cordillera Blanca. The Harvard students, John Terborgh and Jared Diamond, with the Peruvian porter Augusto Jamanca, on July 9 made the first ascent of Luyacpani (18,045 feet). This mountain, which they approached from the Quebrada Quesh...

Mount Everest, New Route on Southwest Face. The objective of the expedition was to climb Mount Everest by a new route on the southwest face to the left of the Bonington Couloir. The expedition consisted of 25 members: 17 climbers, camera crew, a d...