Peak 6,400m (Miandi Peak), first ascent; Kharchakund, attempt; Yeonbuk (5,953m), attempt. On October 5 Bruce Norman, from Scotland, and I made what may be a first ascent of a 6,400m peak in the Garwhal region. The ascent was the culmination of a p...

Coast Range, British Columbia. On 22 July 1947, in the Mt. Waddington-Tiedemann district of western British Columbia, Charles Shiverick, of the Harvard Mountaineering Club, lost his life in a snow avalanche on the highest peak of Mt. Serra, at abo...

Sloan Peak, Northwest Buttress. In late September 2000 Mike Preiss and I completed what we suspect is a new route on Sloan Peak. The Northwest Buttress (IV 5.8 A0) starts at the lowest rock on the far left side of the broad west face and ascends t...

SLIP ON SNOW AND ICE, FAULTY (NO) USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, Mt. St. HelensAbout 3 p.m. on March 8, 1980, Seattle MRC members Paul Helmcke and Joe Kassuba were descending the Dogs Head route on Mt. St. Helens after a successful climb. As they desc...

Yigong Tsangpo, Shashim Valley, reconnaissance. In November Stuart Holmes and I made a further exploratory sortie into the Nyanchen Tanglha East. The original plan, to reconnoiter the valleys south of Niwu, in the heart of the main chain, rapidly ...

Indian Creek Area of Canyonlands. Jeff Widen and Dawn Burke made the first ascent of the Mayes (I, 5.10b). The route, on the Wingate walls 3/4 mile north of Supercrack, is a short, widening crack just right of a large, right-facing dihedral. The s...

FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 19, 1982, three members of the Longside Mountaineering Club, Robin Clothier (26), John Murphy (20) and Alister Cain, flew into Kahiltna Base Camp to climb the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley.The g...

Mt. Moffit, Entropy Wall. In the Eastern Hayes Range, from July 10-13, Jed Brown and Colin Haley established the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mt. Moffit (3,969m). Their route ascends Moffit’s north face, one of the largest faces in Nor...

AVALANCHE, HYPOTHERMIAAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade WaterfallOn February 4, 1984, two climbers completed without incident an ascent of Cascade Waterfall, a popular Grade III ice climb near Banff. They then decided to continue 200 meters furthe...

Kun, West Face. After an unsuccessful attempt to climb the west face of Kun in 1979, Kunihiko Kondo returned to complete the ascent. The expedition approached via the Parktik Glacier. It took 12 days from Base Camp to reach and carry loads to the ...

British Columbia, new ice routes. A few interesting new ice routes were unearthed on the B.C. coast over the past couple of seasons. First up was Rhapsody in Floyd (8 pitches, WI4, Chris Christie and I, March 2008) and Free Tibet! (9 pitches, WI5 ...

SLIP ON SNOW, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson Provincial Park, Base of Mount RobsonOn May 23, M.S. and D.B. were camping at the Kinney Lake Campground. M.S. told D.B...

Manaslu, Winter Ascent and Tragedy, 1984. Our expedition consisted of Maciej Berbeka, Marek Danielak, Ryszard Gajewski, Stanislaw Jaworski, Andrzej Machnik, Zbigniew Mlynarczyk, Andrzej Osika, Maciej Pawlikowski, Boguslaw Probulski, Wlodzimierz St...

Huntington Winter Attempt, West Face to the Harvard Route. Leo Americus, Dave McGivern, Charlie Sassara and I flew to the upper Tokositna Glacier on March 11. From an 8000-foot Base Camp, we moved through an icefall to a secondary camp on a bench ...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHERWyoming, TetonsOn August 14, 1984, Dan Winters (21) camped with six friends in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. The next morning they ascended the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton. As the...

Shivling. The German Alpine Club organized a training expedition to Shivling during the autumn. The virgin north face was the objective but bad weather upset the plans. They established two high camps on the west ridge. From September 23 to 26 all...

Dzhungarian Alatau, Various Ascents. The team comprised Stuart Batey, Mick Jenkins, John Owens, Catherine Clare, Frank McCorriston, Alan Beeton, Allan Gransden, Carl Burks, Carl Morrish, John Wharry, Darren Weller, and Andrew Grubb. Between us, we...

Nacimiento Massif and Other Peaks, 1986 and 1988. Our club has sent four expeditions into the region south of the Ojos del Salado in 1976, 1986, 1987 and 1988. In 1986 and 1988, we made first ascents. Our 1986 group had seven climbers. In January,...

Mount Adams, Stormy Monday Couloir. Craig Reininger and I made an ascent of a spectacular snow and ice finger on the north side of Mount Adams on July 6 and 7. Starting from the lower Adams Glacier we ascended a snow finger to its left until we ca...

Nez Percé (11,700). First traverse on July 12th, by Robert L. M. Underhill and the writer. Ascent made from east (new route) and traverse of all four summits. Descent by west face.First solo ascent on August 22nd, by George E. Goldthwaite. Ascent ...