Yosemite Point, East Face. Over the Memorial Day weekend, T. M. Herbert and I completed the first ascent of the east face of Yosemite Point. The route starts about 300 feet right of the regular Yosemite Point Buttress route. At the end of the firs...
This is the sixteenth report of the Safety Committee and the third in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. This year a further addition is being made by the addition of reports on selected rescue operations. A coordinated program with the M...
Mount Athabaska, Canadian Rockies. In August, Francois Plenier, Yvon Chouinard and I made a new route on the north face of Athabaska, roping up below the gully and climbing through the rock band, without cutting steps.Peter T. Carman
Aconcagua ’s Centennial, Aconcagua Mummy Disagreement and the Gendarmeria Nacional Rescue Team. Aconcagua was first ascended by Mathias Zurbriggen on January 14, 1897. On the centennial of the first ascent, many climbers from throughout the world ...
P 9623, Alaska Range. Steve Anderson, John Pinamont, Barb and Gerry Roach and I, from Boulder, Colorado, packed over Oaster Pass, across the Muldrow Glacier to the Brooks Glacier. Time was too short for our initial objective, Silverthrone, and so ...
Southwest Section. We had three events in 2010, finishing strongly with a successful winter dinner after a climbing day in April at Malibu and a bit of climbing in Palos Verdes. On April 17 six climbers met at Malibu Creek State Park and hiked to ...
Castillo del Paine. An expedition from the town of Rengo in central Chile made on January 27 the first ascent of a fine rock peak (c. 2400 meters, 7874 feet), belonging to the Cordón Olguín, north of the Paine massif. The group was formed by F. Ar...
Milesky Wall, Rest Day alla Pagoda. In January, Rolando Larcher, Fabio Leoni and Marco Curti, all from Trento, Italy, established a new route, Rest Day alia Pagoda (7c+) in the Milesky Wall sector in three days. The route has six pitches which ran...
Urus Oeste, Cordillera Blanca. A Swiss expedition from Lausanne, made up of Georges de Rham, Gilbert Apothéloz, Daniel Bach, Jean Jacques Fatton, Carlo Jaquet and Albert Besanges, made the first ascent of Urus Oeste (17,717 feet) on July 26. They ...
Nuptse Attempt. Hans-Burkhard Nix led an unsuccessful German attempt on the north face of Nuptse; they had hoped to repeat the Doug Scott route. They arrived late in the post-monsoon season and gave up after twelve days at 21,325 feet before reach...
Thunder Mountain, Walk of the Schnitzelkings. On April 6, 1999, German climbers Christoph Duepper and Thomas Traxler climbed the right-hand fork of the split couloir to the right (east) of the central spur—the Lightning Spur—on Thunder Mountain’s ...
Saraghrar, Central Peak. In the A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, p. 223 was reported the ascent of Saraghrar North (23,097 feet) on July 27, 1967. It should also have been noted that the Japanese climbers, Kohichiro Umezu and Shiro Yokoyama continued on to mak...
Bandako. An expedition sponsored by the city of Turin was composed of Andrea Mellano, Romano Perego, Pierfranco Giraudi and Riccardo Varvelli. On July 25 Mellano and Perago made the fourth ascent of Bandako (22,450 feet) by a new route, the north ...
Black Canyon of the Gunnison. On the Cimarron Slabs, Patrick Griffin, Udom Likhitwonnawut and I climbed a clean and enjoyable route, Wonderland (III, 5.8), which consisted mostly of face climbing and low-angled finger-cracks. Several bolts were pl...
FALL ON ROCK-INADEQUATE BELAY WHILE LOWERINGUtah, American Forks Canyon, RockapellaOn June 1, Aaron Johnson (17) was being lowered from Rockappella, but his partner could not hold him. The rope started pulling her up. Another young woman grabbed o...
Umiamakut Nunat Region, West Greenland. Elio Scarabelli, Riccardo Soresini, Marco Zappa and I as leader left Como on July 6, traveling via Milan and Copenhagen to Sondre Stromfjord by air, to Egedesminde by helicopter and to Umanak by boat. There ...
Traverse from San Juan to the North Col of Cayesh. Italians Paola Gigliotti and Massimo Marchini made an interesting traverse in June from the summit of San Juan, over the top of Maparaju to bivouac in the col between Maparaju and Milpocraju. On t...
Mount Logan. On June 10 Bruce Gilbert, Paul Swift, Dick Folta and I were landed at about 8900 feet on the Quintino Sella Glacier. By June 16 Camp IV A was established in the séracs above King Col. However, our push toward the plateau on June 18 wa...
Kaskawulsh/Hubbard divide area, various ascents. After waiting five days for suitable weather to fly, Andy Williams put Jean Boyd, Cathryn and Nigel Wallis, and I down on July 1 at a superb “photo opportunity” location 10½ km north of Mt. Queen Ma...
Sierra Club. Probably one of the most important mountaineering events to occur in the Sierra Club happened at the administrative level with the appointment of Nick Clinch as the new Mountaineering Committee Chairman. Nick, who comes to this positi...