On August 16, a man (36) was critically injured when he lost control of his rappel and fell more than 100 feet. He was canyoneering, according to one report, and it took one set of rescuers seven hours to reach him, including seven rappels ...
Karchakund. Our expedition consisted of Daniele Turrini, Amaldo Colombo, Luigi Gallo, Anna Rosa Guzzetti, Luigi Mascherini and me as leader. We got to Base Camp at Tapovan at 4350 meters on August 2. On August 6, we set up Advance Base at Sundanba...
Cerro Moyano. After six unsuccessful attempts on Cerro Moyano, our expedition reached the summit (9350 feet) on February 2, 1976. This was the last unclimbed major peak in the range between Lakes Viedma and Argentino; it is only slightly less diff...
Baring, North Face. This frequently attempted 2000-foot overhanging face saw yet another attempt this summer, by Fred Beckey, Don Claunch, and Ed Cooper. The previous high point was reached early on the second day. It has now been ascertained that...
Stein’s Pillar. The third ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a spectacular, 400-foot, overhanging tower in eastern Oregon, was made in one day during the summer of 1965 by five Seattle climbers, Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, Pat Callis, Dan Davis and Dick S...
Castle Peak subsidiary summits, first ascents. Roberto Iannilli and Domenco Perri left Rome on July 27th, spent several stressful days in Delhi trying to regain their missing baggage and then experienced more delays above Manali, when a heavy stor...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Section continued its active program this year by sponsoring three evening meetings, a late winter dinner meeting at Director Raffi Bedayn’s home, and our now traditional May meeting in Yosemite. As the May meeti...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Membership in the club slipped below 300 this year as the state lost more population, but we were still an active group. The club conducted its popular ice-climbing school in September and several other classes durin...
La Reina, South Face, Pico Ojeda, Northwest Face and Pico Colón, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I spent from December 29 to January 21, 1977 in the high-peak region, Base Camp being east of Laguna Naboba. We spent nearly a week travel...
Rasac, Traverse of the Mountain. Paul Gonzales and I took the bus to Chiquin from Huaraz in Peru, then hiked for two days into the center of the Cordillera Huayhuash. Passing through the austere towns of Llamac and Jahuacocha, once the epicenter o...
Mountain Operations. Department of the Army; FM 31-72. Washington: Government Printing Office, 1959. Order Number D 101.20:31-72. 238 pages, sketches. Price 65 cents.Although designed primarily for the handling of mountain troops, this little book...
“Kammerlander” and “Water Music,” Fresno Dome. Ruprecht Kammerlander and I made two new routes on Fresno Dome on August 14 and 15, neither of which represents the culmination of Ruprecht’s climbing, yet they were his last first ascents before his ...
Hallucinogen Wall, Solo Ascent. It was reported that Amanda Tarr soloed the Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison over five days in June. This was the first female solo of the route. (Climbing 171)
Chief s Head, Northeast Face, Glacier Gorge, Rocky Mountain National Park. Bob Bradley and I made the first ascent of this beautiful face in August, 1963, in part of two days. From the middle of the wall’s base we climbed a steep slab and belayed ...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKS, CLIMBING ALONE Oregon, Mount JeffersonOn July 28, 1994, Larry Hermens (16) left Jefferson Park for a solo climb of a north side route of Mount Jefferson. On the 29th, Mr. Hermens failed to return, and a search was begu...
Mount Friga, West Face, and “Watchtower,” Northwest Ridge, Baffin Island. In July and August, 1976, Phil Bartlett and I made numerous ascents, including two new ascents. “The Watchtower,” as we christened the peak, is a rock tower (c. 5500 feet) w...
Mexican Mountain Area, Lone Rock, South Face. We had long had our eyes on the prominent right-facing dihedral system working its way up the south face of Lone Rock. Despite Eric’s guidebook and all the hoopla about it, the tower known as Lone Rock...
Mount Baker, North Ridge Variant. Norm Brones, Jim Corbin, Vinny Perrone and I on June 2 and 3 did a variant on Beckey’s route on Mount Baker’s north ridge. Upon reaching the ice steps at 9600 feet we traversed far to the right for some 150 yards ...
Mount Moran, Pika Buttress. Between the northeast and north ridges of Moran are two prominent gullies separated by this buttress. Both the gullies and the buttress terminate at the north ridge short of the north summit. The first ascent of Pike Bu...
Unnamed Peak Attempt, Khumbu Region. In the last week of November 1994, Jeff Singer and Clay Patton of Durango, Colorado attempted an unclimbed peak in the Khumbu Region of Nepal. The peak is located just north of Renjo La and northwest of the tow...