Himalayan Winter Climbing. The strongest winds generally come from the west and south. Route selection should consider this because jet-stream winds can stop movement altogether. The height of the mountain is more critical in winter because winds ...
McKinley Climbed by a 12-Year-Old. Taras Genet, 12-year-old son of Kathy Sullivan and the late Ray Genet, climbed on July 21 to the summit of McKinley via the West Buttress. He is probably the youngest person to do so. The group of seven was guide...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONWyoming, TetonsDick Arneson (age unknown) and Nelson Lichtenstein (39) were approaching the Southwest Ridge of Symmetry Spire at 1100 on August 14, 1984. Arneson had just reached the base of the ridge when he dislodged a...
Shivling. A British-American expedition was composed of British Geoffrey Hornby, leader, David Crowther and Colin Foord and Americans Thomas George Norris, Stephen John Ruoss and Robert Yee. They placed Base Camp at Tapovan on July 30, Advance Bas...
Yarydag, Northwest Face, New Route. Shkhelda lies in the heart of the Caucasus; Yarydag (3925m) is the easternmost point. On the northwest face of Yarydag, Andrey Andreev, Alexei Krivitsky, Sergey Voronin, and I established the new route, Northern...
Nevados de Arhuelles, 1985. A belated report comes of climbs made in the Nevados de Arhuelles, eastern sources of the Maipo river. Between February 2 and 9, 1985, nine climbers led by Ramón Medina including four women made the first ascents of Tor...
Mendenhall Towers, Juneau Icefields. Craig McKibben, Brian Cox, my wife Sharon and I left the Mendenhall Loop Road on July 5 and walked 15 miles up to the base of the Mendenhall Towers in 1½ days. On July 7 Brian, Craig and I climbed the southeast...
Mt. Wister (11,000). Climbed on June 27th by Ranger Phil Smith. Ascent from southeast, from south fork of Avalanche Canyon (new route). Descent by same route.First traverse on August 16th, by the writer. Ascent from south fork of Avalanche Canyon ...
Tombstone Range. Lured by a note in the Canadian Alpine Journal promising “Bugaboo-style granite,” at least two parties visited the Tombstone Range, thirty miles north of Dawson in the central Yukon, in the summer of 1975. In early June Mark Fagan...
Everest. Our Catalán expedition consisted of Conrad Blanch, leader, Joan Massons, Dr. Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Oscar Cadiach, Enric Lucas, Charles Valles, Jordi Camprubí, Jordi Canals, Jordi Magrinyá, Miquel Sánchez, Lluiís Gómez, Xavier Pérez ...
M.l.T. Outing Club. Located as we are in the East, it is essentially impossible for the dub to conduct any expeditions of note. However, we do a large amount of small scale mountaineering and considerable rock climbing, and each year one or two cl...
Santa Cruz Attempt and. Huandoy Norte Tragedy. Bill Hooker and I organized and led an eleven-man expedition in June to atempt new routes on Santa Cruz and Huandoy Norte. After establishing Base Camp at 14,700 feet in the Quebrada Raucolta, we bega...
Washington—Olympia Range: On July 26, 1952 Paul L. Schweitering (18) fell down the side of Timber Mountain in the Olympia Range when a boulder to which he was clinging gave away. He was working on a survey crew at the time. Schweitering suffered s...
Huayna Potosí North-South Traverse. British climbers Simon Abrahams, Jim Hall and Tony Matthews made a traverse of Huayna Potosí, starting on June 24 on the north ridge, moving across the west face to the northwest ridge and on to the lower north ...
Yanahuanca, Cordillera Blanca. The Brazilian Domingos Giobbi of the São Paulo Alpine Club made the first ascent of Yanahuanca (17,340 feet) on July 14 with the Peruvian Eugenio Angeles. On the next day they climbed Caullaraju North (17,764 feet), ...
Ama Dablam, Northeast Face and Southwest Ridge Attempts. Our team was made up of Swiss Marie Hiroz, French Laurence Gouault and Americans Steve Shea and me. We arrived at the rarely visited Base Camp northeast of Ama Dablam in mid-April after an a...
On June 26, Holly (32) and her partner Jeff were climbing the first pitch of The Nose when she took a 40-foot leader fall. She fractured her elbow and had abrasions. She was carried to the road and flown to the hospital. (Source: John Dill, NPS ...
Probably the most notable achievement in the Caucasus was the first winter ascent of the main north face of Chatyn-tau (4,368m), via the feature known as the Rhombus. Chatyn-tau stands just north of the famous double-summited Ushba.The first recor...
El Capitan, Winds of Change, Second Ascent. Grega Lajen and Iztok Mihev made a convoluted second ascent of Winds of Change (VI 5.10 A5) in six days in September. They spent three days fixing ropes on the first six pitches; after three days of rest...
California, Yosemite Valley. On May 29th Richard Jack (age 28) and Peter Williamson (29) completed an ascent of the Grade V route on the Leaning Tower. On their descent they camped for the night at Bridalveil Creek. In the morning they prepared to...