Feature Article AA
The High Sierra of California

THE HIGH SIERRA OF CALIFORNIABY Professor Joseph N. Le ConteI. General Features of the Sierra Nevada THE Sierra Nevada forms a part of the western bulwark of that great continental plateau upon which is built the North American Cordillera, Though ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire (3)—On August 29, Sven Wihrheim (21) and Elwynn Taylor (18) attempted to climb the Durrance Ridge. They began the first lead at 1:30 p.m.Elwynn Taylor had anchored himself to a rock nubbin and was...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, California, Mt. San Jacinto

FALL ON ICE California, Mt. San JacintoAt 8 a.m. on April 28, 1979, a party of 13 left the parking area at the base of Snow Creek and climbed to the bivouac site, about the 7,400-foot level. The camp was reached by all at 5 p.m. We camped comforta...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure—Carabiner Broke, California, Lover's Leap

FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURE–CARABINER BROKECalifornia, Lover's LeapGear worries were far from our minds on a beautiful June morning when Tom Stargaard and I were heading off to Lovers Leap for a day of climbing. The recent cover photo on Climb...


Feature Article AAJ
Cragging in the Karakoram

Cragging in the KarakoramRobert Warren, UnaffiliatedSEVERAL YEARS AGO, Max Kendall and I spent a miserable time on Denali. Throughout the climb, all I could think about was climbing beautiful Yosemite granite in warm sunshine. I enjoyed the advent...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Condoriri Region, Cordillera Real

Condoriri Region, Cordillera Real. My wife Irene and I left La Paz on August 17. From a point 20 kilometers from the end of the road north of Lake Tuni, we made our way up the valley which runs due south from Condoriri and reached Base Camp in 3½ ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, British Everest Expedition, 1951

British Everest Expedition, 1951. Early in 1951 the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club received permission from the Government of Nepal to send an expedition to the S. side of Mt. Everest. Mr. Eric Shipton was selected to lead the part...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Western Canada, Mount Tiedeman and Other Peaks, Radiant Glacier, Coast Range

Mount Tiedemann and Other Peaks, Radiant Glacier, Coast Range. On July 16, Joe Firey, Dave Knudson, Michael Martin, Frank de Saussure, Hansueli Hösli and I flew by helicopter to a 7100-foot Base Camp on the Radiant Glacier from Buff Lake. In a day...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Thompson

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount ThompsonOn Sunday, February 22, 1981, a party of three set out to climb Mount Thompson from the Peyto Glacier, using the Peter Whyte Hut as a base. One party member left ahead of the other two and crossed i...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Harness Came Off—Not Buckled Correctly and Not Cliped in to Leg Yokes, Quebec, Gatineau Park, Cabin Creek Falls

FALL ON ICE, HARNESS CAME OFF-NOT BUCKLED CORRECTLY AND NOT CUPPED IN TO LEG YOKESQuebec, Gatineau Park, Cabin Creek FallsOn January 15, R.P. (48) began to climb Cabin Creek Falls, a water ice Grade 2 or 3 climb, depending on the line taken. He wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Polish-American Climbing Exchange

Polish-American Climbing Exchange. During late August and early September Mark Norden and I spent most of a month in Poland as guests of the Polish Alpine Club, or more specifically, The High Mountain Club of Zakopane, a local affiliate of the nat...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mischief in Greenland

Mischief in Greenland by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis and Carter Ltd, 1964. 192 pages; 28 photos; 2 charts; 3 appendices. Price: 25 s.This is the third book concerning voyages to remote mountain regions accessible by sea in the author’s old pilot ...


Feature Article AAJ
An American Ascent of Mont Blanc in 1856

An American Ascent of Mont Blanc in 1856Through the courtesy of Mr. Arthur Fairbanks, of Dartmouth College, and Mrs. Chauncey A. Adams, the American Alpine Club has received the alpenstock used by their father, Henry Fairbanks (1830-1918), who rea...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, Fifty-Sixth Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada

This is the fifty-sixth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-fifth issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: Once again it was the year of the stranded climber in Canada, wit...


Feature Article AAJ
Shadows of Doubt, Mount Hunter

Shadows of Doubt, Mount HunterMichael KennedyCLICK! A SIMPLE SOUND: the snap of a crampon heel-bail against a plastic boot, hanging over the side of a portaledge 1000 feet above the Kahiltna Glacier. Just one of dozens of precise mechanical moveme...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Attempt on McArthur Peak

Attempt on McArthur Peak. June 7 found all six of us, Bill Dougal, Dick Wahlstrom, Lute Jerstad, Steve Johnson, Ron Priebe and me, at 8200 feet on the north ridge of the highest unclimbed peak in North America, McArthur Peak (14,400 feet). On June...


Feature Article AAJ
The End of Mountains

The End of the MountainsChristopher A. G. JonesLIVING in a large city I accept overcrowding as part of the grim price or today, but recently overcrowding has begun to annoy me where one would least expect it: in the mountains. For me the quality o...


Feature Article AAJ
Barrill's Mount McKinley Affidavit

Barrill’s Mount McKinley AffidavitH. Bradford WashburnA major article has emerged on the subject of Dr. Frederick A. Cook’s claim to have made the first ascent of Mount McKinley on September 16, 1906. When Adams Carter and I wrote the article whic...


Club Activities AAJ
Sierra Nevada Section

Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section had an active 2006 promoting the AAC’s goals of Knowledge, Conservation, and Community. The Section hosted nine events at which it welcomed AAC members, their guests, visiting climbers, and the publ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Twenty-Hour Tower, You Gotta Want It and Alexander's Band, Flat Top Mountain, Trundler North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Mountains

Laramie boys Oliver Deshler and I made two trips into the Clear Creek valley in the northern Winds this summer. As a warm-up, on June 23 we climbed the previously unclimbed north-facing wall of Flat Top Mountain, via the northeast arête: Tru...

| Published 2009 | Author Mark Jenkins