Scottish Staunings Alper Expedition. We completed a south-to-north traverse of the Staunings Alper. The journey was about 150 kilometers and followed the glacier systems on a route as close as possible to the east-west divide. We were Britons Mand...
Merriam Peak, North Face. The left edge of the beautiful north pillar of Merriam Peak begins as a blocky, segmented arête that features two or three sharp spires in the lower third and culminates in a steep, smooth, rounded buttress. In July, Dave...
Shani Attempt and Ascents of Other Peaks, Naltar Valley, Western Karakoram. Attempts were made by Andrew Macnae and Paul Bale from June 19 to 21 and by Richard Spillett and me from July 5 to 7 on the 2000-meter-high unclimbed southeast face of Sha...
Bhrigu Parvat (6041m), ascent. A nine-member Indian expedition led by Dr Anjan Chaudhary approached this peak north of Manda via the Kedar Kharak. The summit was reached on September 2 by Tanmoy Chakraborty and Arun Danti Das.Harish Kapadia, Honor...
Nilkantha Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Rob Tresidder, Ernie McGlashaw, Rebekah Beadle, Helen Jones, Mary Fysh, Richard Topliss, Paul Ramsden, Peter Green and me as leader. We walked from Hanuman Chatti via the Khirao valley to Base Camp...
First Across the Roof of the World. Graeme Dingle and Peter Hillary. Hodder and Stoughton, Auckland, 1983. 232 pages, color photographs, maps. £9.95.In these days of ultradistance exploits in many sports, it is intriguing to discover another type ...
Mir Samir, Southwest Buttress. After a two-week Volkswagen-bus trip from Imst, Austria, we arrived in Kabul and continued on through the Panjshir valley to Dasht-Rewat. We traveled with 12 horses on to Dehe Parian and branched off into the Wuryaj ...
Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. the Ogre, 7,285m), attempts to repeat the original British Route and the South Pillar. Basque climbers Juan Mari Iraola, Chus Lizzaraga, Eduard Martinez, and Juan Vallejo attempted the second ascent of the South Pillar, only ...
Poincenot, East Buttress, “Whisky-Time.’’ Working from a biovouac on the Paso Superior, with many interruptions because of the weather, we climbed the first half of our route and fixed it with rope. Finally, on February 10, 1994, we succeeded in c...
F. WOODBRIDGE CONSTANT 1904-1988F. Woodbridge Constant died at his home in Essex, Connecticut on November 16. He graduated from Princeton and earned his Ph.D from Yale. In 1946, he joined the Trinity College faculty in Hartford as chairman of the ...
Northern Selkirks, Various Ascents. In August, 1995, Steve Sheriff and I gained a high point beneath Mount Sorcerer by following logging roads through clearcuts above Bachelor Creek. We then bushwhacked directly toward the peak for a kilometer or ...
The Editor also calls the readers’ attention to Freedom in Exile—The Autobiography of the Dalai Lama, Harper Collins, New York, 1990 and Hodder and Stoughton Ltd, London, 1990. 288 pages, numerous photographs.
BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE—Washington, Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge. Tim Riordan (31), Jeff Jones (21) and Jack Tackle (23) were helicoptered from 8,500 feet on the Winthrop Glacier after a two day search effort. Bad weather conditions had forced them to...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, NO ICE AX LEASH SYSTEMColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Andrews GlacierOn September 16, Charles Bailey (37) slipped on Andrews Glacier while glissading. He lost his ice ax and was unable to stop himself. H...
Elbrus and Pik Korzhenevskoy. On June 12 and 18,1 climbed to the summits of Elbrus East (5621 meters, 18,442 feet) and Elbrus West (5642 meters, 18,510 feet) in the Caucasus. I was informed that I was the first American woman to ski from the summi...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (2), Storm Point—On July 7, James E. Ferris (22) and James M. Brydon signed out at the Chief Ranger’s Office for belaying practice on the south side of Storm Point. Due to the fact that a mountain rescue was alre...
EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mt. ShastaOn February 3, 1978, Ed Paterson and Ron Sova (34) attempted a winter climb of Mt. Shasta. While Peterson and Sova were in the area of the Red Banks, a fierce winter storm’s full...
Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of southeast ridge. On October 24 Seth Hobby and I established base camp at 4,600m below the east face of Kyajo Ri (6,186m). Our plan was to climb the mountain from the northeast. Photos provided by our friend and t...
Nun Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions to Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) in 1994. French climbers led by Jean Bordes attempted the north face while a British-American expedition led by Alan Burgess tried in September to climb the we...
AVALANCHE, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Stanley BasinOn February 24, 1979, two cross-country skiers, Michael Roger Cheng and Allison Joan Bonnie, of Calgary, Alberta, died in an avalanche in the Stanley Basin in Kootenay National...