A Climber’s Tour from Klosters to Zermatt. To those who wish to visit some relatively little known sections of Switzerland, and who eschew the centrist’s approach to climbing, the following itinerary is offered as of possible interest. It is based...
Climbs from the Fay HutJoel E. FisherTHE recently erected Fay Hut of the Alpine Club of Canada is situated behind the peaks that wall in Moraine Lake, in the Lake Louise district of the Canadian Rockies. Its accessibility as a climbing center attr...
HesperusStephen Spalding, Mountaineering Club of AlaskaMOUNT HESPERUS shone bold and beautiful in the 1983 Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking Calendar, beckoning me to its slopes. We began talking about attempting it after coming off Denali in June ...
Above the Clouds: The Diaries of a High Altitude Mountaineer. Anatoli Boukreev. Collected and edited by Linda Wylie. New York: St. Martin's Press, 2001. 290 pages, 26 pages of color photographs. $27.95.When the American Alpine Club received the fi...
Sacred Mountains of the World. Edwin Bembaum. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1990. 291 pages, 1 map, 121 color illustrations, 8 black-and-white illustrations. $50.00.George Mallory’s simple answer, “Because it is there,” is both the most famous...
FALL/SLIP ON ROCK AND PLACED NO PROTECTION—Wyoming, The Tetons, Symmetry Spire. Charles Loucks (44) William Thomas, SallyWestmacott and Mike Westmacott were climbing the Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire on August 27. This 1200-foot ridge consists of...
FALL ON ROCK—BLOCK OF ROCK CAME OFF, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, ROPE SHEATH CUT, NO HARD HATMaryland, Delaware Water Cap, Mount TammanyOn March 12, before noon, Ralph Chang (36), Bruce Pollock, and Randall Fairman began lead climbing on Mount Tammany....
The Eastern Pillar of Torre EggerElio Orlandi, Club Alpino ItalianoHAVING REACHED Fitz Roy National Park on October 15, Maurizio Giarolli and I immediately headed for the triad of the Cerro Torre group: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Torre Standhard...
Mount Chown and P 9600. The peaks northwest of Mount Robson more than a day distant from the Berg Lake Trail are seldom visited these days, but a passable trail continues north along the Smoky River, portions of which are well built and maintained...
Montana, Delmo Lake, Granite Batholith—On May 17, Gary D. Alexander (21), Force F. Bany, Jr. (19), John Sikkar (25), and Gary Harper (18), were planning to do some practice climbs. Alexander and Bany were attempting to climb a face about 200 feet ...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 30, at 10:30 a.m., Laurel Munson came into the valley ranger station to report that a climber had fallen from Sentinel Rock. Laurel said that she heard falling rocks and yelling, saw a man f...
Cholatse, southwest ridge, winter attempt. Ross Lynn and I spent three days on Cholatse (6,440m) from January 30 to February 1, 2006. On the first day we climbed from base camp to the ca. 5,550m col at the foot of the southwest ridge, at one point...
Alberta, Mt. Victoria Glacier. On July 11, John Linn (about 40), Stanley Doane, and Ernest Feuz were returning from a climb of the glacier by their ascent route. Linn, as middle man, suddenly fell into a hidden crevasse but was arrested by Feuz an...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE Yukon Territory, Mt. Logan, East RidgeThe fall occurred shortly after noon on June 14, 1980, as an eight-man party left camp one (10,500 feet) on descent. A snow step underlaid by ice failed under T. Auger causing him to fa...
Rakekniven, First Ascent. It was reported that Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe climbed an aspect called the Snow Petrol Wall on Rakekniven, an overhanging, Cerro Torre-like granite needle in the Filchner Mountains of Queen Maud Land, Antarctica. Other ...
West Tripyramid, Northwest Ridge. On August 22, Scott Gill, Randy Waitman and I climbed a new route, the northwest ridge of West Tripyramid (3572 meters, 11,720 feet). We established our high camp at 6400 feet on the Traleika Glacier after a five-...
Wall of Clouds, Aularutiksanga, New Route, Previously Unreported. Phil White, Jr., and I left Clyde River on or about May 2 and returned on roughly June 20, 1999. We traveled with our guides Ilko, his son John, and Lamaki for a few days, checking ...
Yanaloma and Don Luis, Quimsa Cruz. In the Quimsa Cruz I climbed two peaks, Yanaloma (5280 meters, 17,323 feet), a first ascent and Don Luis (5360 meters, 17,587 feet), probably a second ascent as there was a cairn on top and I was told that minin...
Mt. McGinnis, east face, Cutthroat Couloir. In early March Jed Brown and I skied in to attempt the unclimbed direct east face of McGinnis. The left-hand serac, and constant spew showering down the lower gully of the face, had us choose to repeat C...
Cerro Torre, Southern Patagonian Icecap. The Italians, Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri, failed some 1500 feet below the summit of the Cerro Torre (10,252 feet). They attempted a route up the west face from the western side. High camp was establishe...