Grand Teton, ex-Stettner Couloir. Even as other cloddish guidebook writers have capitalized on their own blunders (See A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, p. 412), so it was with the first ascent on rock of the so-called Stettner Couloir on the Grand Teton, made ...
Malubiting West, Ascent. On July 29, Matthias Dischinger (28) from Lorrach, Germany, Roland Brandli (35) from Zurich, Switzerland, Ruedi Karrer (38) from Zurich, Switzerland, and Dieter Funfschilling (25) as expedition leader, started the walk-in ...
Indian Peaks guidebook author Gerry Roach describes the northwest face of 13,441' Apache Peak as “steep, broken, and uninteresting.” Maybe so in summer, but in the spring, with lots of snow and some ice, it becomes an attractive alpine route. Greg...
Stone House Buttress, Jeanne Neale Route. Our first attempt of this route on February 12 was cut short by an unfortunate fall by a young lass on another route. Dan Hurd and I descended to help on what was to be an exciting rescue. March 4 found us...
Dhaulagiri. Our expedition was composed of Iñaki Aldaya, Dr. Javier Garayoa, Dr. Trinidad Cornellana, Gerardo Plaza, Angel Irigoyen, Angel Martínez, Javier Garreta, José Ignacio Ariz, Agustín Setuain, Juan Mary Eguillor, Mary Abrego, Javier Soroza...
Api, Bobaye, NampaThe 1996 Slovenian Three Peaks Expeditionby Roman Robas, Matic Jost, Tomaz Humar, and Janko Meglic,Planinska zvezci Slovenije translated by Ana PercicIn the spring of 1995, Stane Belak-Srauf, with Jasna Bratanic and Bostjan Slate...
Mazamas. In 1963 weather worked against our climbing program with a vengeance. Twenty of the 103 climbs scheduled by the climbing committee were called off before starting. An additional 14 climbs were stormed off short of the summit. This is depr...
“The Mountain Way.” An Anthology in Prose and Verse, collected by R. L. G. Irving. 656 pages, 1 illustration. London : J. M. Dent & Sons, 1938. Price 10 s, 6 d.Arnold Lunn’s Oxford Mountaineering Essays and J. Walker McSpadden’s The Alps as Se...
No Rest Days in the Sierra NevadaStephen PorcellaTHE EAST FACE of Mount Whitney is normally an easy 5.4 route, but on this long, cold April day, with the standard cracks full of ice, it turns into a 5.8, A2 route for us. We reach the summit as the...
TOM CABOT 1897-1995Tom Cabot had been a member of the AAC since 1924, distinguishing him as our oldest living member at the time of his death on October 9, 1995.In the late 1960s, I met Tom in Penobscot Bay off the coast of Maine, where he and his...
Mount Everest, Formation, Population and Exploration of the Everest Region, by Toni Hagen, Günter-Oskar Dyhrenfurth, Christoph von Fürer-Haimendorf and Erwin Schneider, Translated by E. Noel Bowman, Oxford University Press, London, 1963. (original...
Baintha Brakk II (Ogre II) Attempt. Brian Hall, Alan Rouse, Andrew Parkin and I attempted unclimbed Baintha Brakk II or Ogre II (6960 meters, 22,835 feet). It promised to be at least as difficult as Baintha Brakk (Ogre). A British party tried it i...
Cordillera Sarmiento in WinterJack MillerThe islands, fjords and mainland along the southwest coast of South America are legendary for collecting storms. Rolling off the Roaring Forties and Furious Fifties of the South Pacific and Antarctic oceans...
ROLLIN THOMAS CHAMBERLIN 1881-1948When Professor Chamberlin was a student in Switzerland in 1900 he made his first ascent, the Titlis, alone. In 1939 he climbed Hungabee, a difficult peak of the Canadian Rockies. These are the boundaries of the mo...
Reo Purgyol (Leo Pargial). With a view to introducing gentlemen cadets to the high hills, the Indian Military Academy at Dehra Dun, with the assistance of the Indian Mountaineering Federation and the Army Mountaineering Association, organized its ...
Early American Ascents in the Alps. Through the efforts of Mr. Oscar Houston, the A.A.C. has received an unusual inscribed alpenstock, the end of which is turned in the form of a chamois horn, though it is entirely of wood and continuous with the ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, NO HARD HAT, WEATHERWyoming, TetonsOn August 31, 1985, at 1100, John H. Sheppard (35) registered for a climb of the Skillet Glacier on Mount Moran. Sheppard intended to camp the night of the 31st in the drainage below...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILEDNew York, Shawangunks, BostonOn November 6, a climber (53) fell about 30 feet from the crux of Boston (5.4+ or 5.5, PG). A cam placed two or three feet below the point from which he fell failed (broke). The next pro ...
RAY GENET 1931-1979“What is the source of this man’s energy? He runs everywhere, even at 20,000 feet while I labor over every step. Above Archdeacon’s Tower it occurred to me that if I should stop for some reason, Genet could— and would—carry me u...
Ascent. The Spiritual and Physical Quest of Willi Unsoeld, by Laurence Leamer. New York: Simon and Schuster, 1982. 392 pages, eight plates of black-and-white photographs, and N.G.S. pictorial drawing of Mount Everest. $17.50.This biography of a gr...