Briefly noted in the 2010 AAJ (p. 84), Jianshanzi (Jianzi Peak) was climbed solo in 2005. The ascent was by Wang Bing, who climbed the southwest face September 28-29, 2005. This mountain lies halfway up the Shuangqiao, immediately west of this v...
East Greenland. Inko Bajde, leader, Franci Gselman, Ivan Šturm, Štefan Senekovic, Boro Jerebek, Adolf Lep, Zvone Koklic, Ivek Verebic, Janez Bizjak and Bojan Pajk reached Angmagssalik on July 7. They were the third Yugoslavian expedition to Greenl...
The North Wall of the GrandRay GarnerIN the 50-odd years it has taken for the Grand Teton to progress from an impossibility to “an easy day for a lady,” many memorable ascents have been made. The peak that was once considered unclimbable has now b...
A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, by Steve Roper. Berkeley, California: The Ski Hut, 1966. 69 pages, 7 photographs, 5 maps. Price: $2.75.This is the second climber’s guide to be published on this compact and pleasant area in Califo...
Nevado Padrecaca, Quepala, Llongote, and Ticlla, Ascents. While Peru is a popular destination, the Cordillera Central is not. Pamela Caswell, Stuart Gallagher, Peter Holden, Ken Mosley, Christopher Woodall, David Wynne-Jones, Ken Findlay and I arr...
Ways to the Sky: A Historical Guide to North American Mountaineering, Andy Selters. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press. 334 pgs. 65 b&w photos, 15 maps. $24.95.When Jeff McCarthy returned this spring from the “International Festival of...
STANLEY S. SHEPARD1938-1993Stan Shepard died on August 12 in the Quimsa Cruz mountains of Bolivia when the vehicle in which he was riding slid off a mountain road in a snowstorm and tumbled 120 meters. Stan died at the scene. He was attempting to ...
Two Relief Maps of the Canadian RockiesIt is stated (Encyclopedia Britannica) that the first tridimensional maps were made by the Incas of Peru. The name “relief” was not applied until a much later time, but probably always has expressed the topog...
P 5445 Attempt and Ascents of Jianshier Feng, P 4348, P 4203 and P 4300. An Anglo-Irish party of five, Mike Banks, Joss Lynam (joint leaders), Phil Gribbon, Paddy O'Leary, and Barrie Page, aged between 60 and 72, climbed the Bogda Feng group of Ti...
High in the Thin Cold Air, by Sir Edmund Hillary and Desmond Doig. Garden City, N. Y.: Doubleday and Company, 1962. 254 pages, 89 illustrations mostly in color, 2 route diagrams. Price $5.95.This is the story of the Himalayan Scientific and Mounta...
Ocshapalca, Cordillera Blanca and Attempt on Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. From June to August, we of the Andean Expedition of the Alpine Friendship Club of Waseda University in Tokyo made our first climbs in the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash...
A Logan AdventureGalen A. RowellIWAVED to the smiling faces in the 5-place helicopter. Sandy Bill gazed resolutely straight ahead. Laura Brant was laughing. Joe Bridges looked happy but bewildered (it was his first wilderness climbing trip). My la...
FALLING ROCK- DISLODGED, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel RockOn June 27, Jim Corpus (44) and Mike Penner (45) climbed the Steck-Salathe route (15 pitches, 5.9) on Sentinel Rock. They summited at sunset, took a break...
By Fair MeansThe first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Torre without Maestri's bolts.Hayden KennedyMy mind twists in anticipation. The night is clear, and the Torres have become monsters. The moonlight provides just enough light to see the ...
The Shield, Attempt. My Norwegian climbing trip this summer was a surprise and a disappointment. First I flew to Oslow and spent three days gathering a team that consisted of me and two Swedish climbers, Ludde Hagberg and a friend of his named Mar...
Washington, North Cascades, Sharkfin Tower, Cascade Pass Area. On August 7 a party of 6 (3 ropes of 2) was returning from an ascent of Sharkfin Tower. They were at the base of the rock summit at the top of a steep snow slope (50-40°). At 3:15 P.M....
Various free ascents. I will look back on 2005 as the year I became obsessed with Zion free climbing. It started a few weeks before 2005, when I nabbed the first free ascent of Angel’s Landing, via the 15-pitch Lowe Route. After that climb, I was ...
FALL ON SNOW, PARTY SEPARATED—CLIMBING ALONE, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Denali PassOn May 18 at 0600, Kunibert Gramlich, from Germany, stumbled into the 17,200-foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley and requested assistance from Nat...
Japanese Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Ayacachi and Cordillera Vilcanota. The Peruvian Andes Expedition 1961 of Kwansei Gakuin University was planned as one of the ceremonial events of the 70th anniversary of the university and s...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. Between October 28, 1999, and January 23, 2000, Laurence Monnoyeur and I had 18 days of good weather overall. From October 28-November 11, we traveled on the Hielo Continental from Marconi Pass to the Refugio...