Illampu-Ancohuma Group and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. The magnificent cirques east of Illampu and Ancohuma lured me back this year, accompanied by fellow Coloradans Tom Dunwiddie, Tom Flood, Ron Osborn, Pete Weickmann, and Tom Worth. On June 1 ...
Indian Everest Expedition. The expedition consisting of fifteen climbers, two doctors, two wireless operators, and a liaison officer left Jainagar on February 26. The advance party reached Base Camp on March 22 and succeeded in getting to the top ...
Ruwiduri Sar, Zarsanic 1, First Ascents. It was reported that Annabelle Barker, Pru Cartwright, Margaret Clennett, Sally MacIntyre and Sue Williscroft visited the Shimshal Pass area in July, making ascents of Ruwiduri Sar (5500m) via the northeast...
Austerity, East Face. An Appalachian Mountain Club party of Ed Nester, Ken Andrasko, Reed Markley and I in late July made a new route on the east face of Mount Austerity (10,980 feet). The east face was largely high-angle snow; the last five pitch...
Mount Tyndall, East Face. In early August Bill Sumner and I walked in over Shepherd Pass to the rocky basin at the foot of the esthetic 1500-foot triangular wall, a dry tiring trek made somewhat easier by carrying just skeletal bivouac gear, chock...
Oregon, Mt. Hood, Eliot Glacier. On 8 October, Bud Siegel (36) and Chuck Gibson (39) experienced mountaineers and active members in Mountain Rescue and Safety Council of Oregon and the Mt. Hood Ski Patrol, left their car at timberline at 9:30 a.m....
Latok I Attempt. (The officially designated Latok I, called Latok II by the Italians.) The mountain was everything we expected: superb rock, good line, good sustained climbing. Unfortunately Martin Boysen, Choe Brooks, John Yates and I could not f...
Masherbrum (25,660 ft.) was the goal of a British expedition composed of Capt. J. B. Harrison, Lieut, J. O. M. Roberts R. A. Hodgkin, J. Waller, and Dr. T. Graham Brown. In addition Dr G. A. J. Teasdale and Dr. Elizabeth Teasdale joined the party ...
A Sorry Season. Very bad weather severely limited climbing in the Alps during the summer of 1948.
Langtang Lirung. Our expedition climbed Langtang Lirung by the southeast ridge, previously ascended by Japanese in 1980 and 1981. We were Fukashi Suzuki, Takashi Miyazaki, Toshiyuki Fukui, Toshiaki Jinnai, Takayoshi Taga, Takashi Takeuchi, Tomohar...
Malangutti Sar Attempt. This 7000er north of Distagil Sar was unsuccessfully attempted by Japanese led by Yoshiro Kasai. Details are missing.
Rakaposhi. Under the leadership of Mathias Rebitsch, veteran of the 1938 Nanga Parbat and 1952 Peruvian Expeditions, six climbers and five scientists from Austria and Germany left Gilgit on May 26, 1954, for the Hunza Valley. The scientists planne...
Verónica or Hacrahuilki, Cordillera Urubamba. The fourth ascent of this 19,336-foot peak was made by a new route, the north face, on September 13 and 14 by Eugeniusz Chrobak, Roman Gutkowski, Tadeusz Laukajtys and Ludwik Wilczyñski.Halina Cieplins...
Torres del Paine, 1992-3. Three young climbers from Bariloche were the core of an expedition that climbed all three of the Paine Towers and made new routes on two of them. They were Teodoro Plaza, 20 years old, and Ramiro Calvo and Diego Luro, bot...
Kongur Attempt. Nancey Goforth, Kathy Nilson, Pat Dillingham, Joan Provencher, Nancy FitzSimmons-Bloom, Deb Pranian, Suzanne Hopkins, Carole Petiet and I* traveled to Xinjiang to attempt Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) during June and July. We w...
Cordón de la Jaula. Under the leadership of Jorge Peterek, a group of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires made a number of first ascents in this range, which lies southeast of Aconcagua and about 40 miles south of Upsallata. The others were Pablo and A...
Nanga Parbat, Ski Attempt. Our expedition, organized by Dr. Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, had as members Rudolf Bilgram, Josef Stiller, Marianne Walter and me as leader. We were on the mountain from May 12 to June 28. Our objective was to reconnoiter ...
The Untrodden Route. The Alpine Club (London) has lost four members whose names are known to all lovers of mountain literature. H. E. G. Tyndale, whose last book, Mountain Paths, appeared only recently, died at Winchester on 3 August 1948, while t...
Cho Oyu from Nepal, Pre-Monsoon. We established Base Camp south of the Nangpa La at 5200 meters on April 21. We crossed the Nangpa La and followed the Tichy route with camps at 5800, 6160 and 6850 meters on April 25, 28 and May 3. Camp III suffere...
Himalayan Climber: A Lifetime’s Quest to the World’s Greater Ranges. Doug Scott. San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1992. 192 pages. $35.00.Scott is surely one of the most well-rounded climbers of our sport’s history. He has climbed the Salathé Wal...