Eruption in Colombia. Seventeen students were reported killed in a sudden eruption near the summit of the 15,416-foot volcano Purace (2° 20' N., 76° 40' W.) on 26 May 1949. The volcano had been inactive for 16 years. Two other students, who were b...
Prior Peak (10,750 ft.) and Unnamed (10,150 ft.). July 8th, 1937. First ascents of these were made in a continuous route from camp below the tongue of Freshfield glacier. E. Cromwell, E. Cromwell, Jr., Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North, J. M. Thoring...
Cho Oyu Ascent and Attempt from the South in the Pre-Monsoon. Malcolm Duff from Scotland led an international group consisting of 6 Britons, 1 New Zealander, 2 Americans and 1 Venezuelan to Cho Oyu. On May 8, Britons Duff, Dave Horrex and Neil Lin...
Cordillera Blanca, Various Ascents. Peru 1996, once a dream, was now a reality. We were in for two months of the South American goods. Our team mainly consisted of four: Lome Glick, Kent McClannan*, Topher Donahue, and myself*. After a three-day a...
Golden Horn: First Ascent. On 18 September 1946 the first ascent of Golden Horn (8400 ft.) in the N. E. Cascades was accomplished by Fred Beckey, Keith Rankin and Charles Welsh. The approach was from Horseheaven Camp, ten miles from the Hart’s Pas...
Pinnacles National Monument. It was a quiet year in the Pinnacles National Monument. To the right of “Agrarian,” John Barbella and James McConachie recommend their route, Heat-Seeking Missile (5.10c). Some of the protection bolts for this climb we...
Cholatse, Tawoche, Ama Dablam and Tragedy on Ama Dablam. A Japanese expedition led by Naoe Sakashita had a very ambitious schedule. Masayuki Ariaki, Makoto Ishibashi and Hideaki Shibuya reached the summit of Cholatse (6440 meters, 21,128 feet) on ...
FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount RainierAt 1225 on August 18, 1984, Ranger Bill Moe and Ranger Greg Petzke observed a client of RMI experience a crevasse fall while crossing under the Ingraham Icefall, descending the Disappointment Cleaver rout...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkIn mid May, Jerome Stiller (50), a part-time instructor in Regis University’s teacher training program, was supposed to play the “victim” in a mountain rescue exercise Saturday...
Dhaulagiri. The fourth attempt to climb 26,795-foot Dhaulagiri ended in failure again this year when a party of five Germans and four Swiss under the leadership of Martin Meier of Munich were thwarted by bad weather and heavy snow. They are said t...
Cho Oyu from the South in the Post-Monsoon. By the end of this autumn, a total of some 400 people have claimed success on Cho Oyu—although some of them may actually have stopped at a slightly lower summit than its highest point (8201 meters, 26,90...
Mount Logan, Centennial Ridge. On July 5 K. Blackwood, David P. Jones, J. (Kobi) Wyss and I were flown in from Kluane Lake by helicopter to a site at 8300 feet on a cirque level with the base of “Independence Ridge” (Blomberg’s route) but close ...
Lucania and Steele. The Lucania-Steele area was also popular this season. David Mention of Oregon led R.W. Temple, B. Hanlou and C.K. Grouer in a late-April first attempt on Mount Steele’s north ridge. They abandoned their attempt at 14,000 feet w...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT FAILURE, NO HARD HAT—New York, Shawangunks. Tired while leading the first pitch of Roseland—a 5.9 route— Stephen Block (21) tried to move to easier ground. He fell, pulling out three nuts, and hit the ground. He was wearing no ha...
Tordrillo Mountains Ski Traverse. In late March and early April Mark Jonas** and I flew to Beluga Lake to begin the first 3-pin ski traverse of the Tordrillo Mountains. These stretch for over 100 miles from near Mount Spur to the Cathedral Mountai...
Colorado, Mt. Olinger, Turkey Creek Canyon—On June 27, Philip E. Jensen (17) fell while descending Mt. Olinger in Turkey Creek Canyon southwest of Denver, Colorado. Jensen was killed in the 400 ft. fall which resulted from a piton failure. He was ...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Edith CavellE. Grassman (36) and G. Pilkington registered to climb the north face of Mt. Edith Cavell on 29-31 August 1979. On 1 September they were reported overdue by the Parks Trail Registration Office,...
Bivouac Peak, Direct South Face. The third route on this face was established on July 24 by Yvon Chouinard and Juris Krisjansons. The route begins, after F3 and F4 scrambling up toward the obvious black water marks which form a prominent feature o...
Cerro Yana de Colac, Cerro Ventanilla and Cerro Yana Pucara, First Ascents. In 1997,I visited the two more accessible districts of the Cordillera Central, located inland from Lima. I first traveled to the Cordillera de la Viuda. After traversing f...
Bethartoli South. A ten-man expedition plus leader, Lute Jerstad, and Liaison Officer, Sudhir Sahi, left Delhi May 10. With 35 porters and 150 goats, we left Lata May 15 and crossed Dharansi Pass four days later in deep snow after a forced bivouac...