Purcell Range. Ascents in July 1948 by F. Beckey, J. Hieb and R. Widrig are described in an article in this issue.Early in August four California climbers were caught in an electrical storm near the summit of Bugaboo Spire. Two were injured fatall...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The CCMC continued to hold its local rock schools and climbing trips to introduce new members to the sport of mountaineering. The participation of a large number of active members added to the success of our activit...
Langsisha Ri. Simon Cox, John Goulstone, Steve Upton, Kirsten Sorenson and I left Kathmandu on March 29 and after seven anxious days and one heavy snowstorm reached Base Camp at 4500 meters at the edge of the Langsisha Glacier. From there we carri...
Manaslu, South Face. A Tyrolean expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz made the third ascent of 26,760-foot Manaslu by a third new route, the 10,000-foot south face, a face route of sustained difficulty. Yet success was immediately marred by the death o...
Cordillera Carabaya, various ascents. I led an expedition to the Peruvian Cordillera Carabaya in June, and we believe we made a few first ascents and new routes. This is a very remote part of Peru, and in two weeks traveling in the mountains we sa...
A.A.C., New England Section. The year 1980 began with the disastrous lack of snow, which brought about the cancellation of our annual winter White Mountain meeting at Jed Williamson’s cozy farm house in Jackson, New Hampshire. “Bad call,” said som...
Satopanth. Andrej Gradišnik, Rok Preložnik, Danilo Tic and I first tried to climb Satopanth from the south via the Swachand Glacier but the snow and rock on the south side were too poor. We moved to a new base on the north side and climbed the nor...
Yakshin Gardan Sar, Third Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Hiroshi Tateoka originally had permission for Rimo, but because of a border dispute, the authorities changed their objective. They approached from the Hispar Glacier over a col north o...
Rwenzori (Ruwenzori) Mountains, Mountains of the Moon, an historical overview and recent ascent of Mt. Stanley (Margherita Peak, 5,109m.). Rwenzori Mountains National Park is located on the border between Uganda and Zaire. It contains six major gl...
Lahul Himalaya. Capt. R. G. Platts and Mr. N. W. Wollaston spent six weeks in this region in August and September 1954. From a base camp in the Sissu Nala they climbed Peak 18,930 feet, eight miles southeast of Kyelang. From a 17,000-foot camp on ...
Salcantay Attempt. On July 15 José Astudillo and Antonio Alcalde were 350 feet below the top of Salcantay when they were struck by a great storm, which forced them back. We had been attempting the north ridge, the best approach to which would have...
Torre Sur de Paine, 1991. On November 1, 1991, Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz and Spaniard José Carlos Tamayo made the fourth ascent of the normal north ridge and the sixth to the summit of the South Paine Tower after fixing 300 meters of rope.
Tuomur or Pik Pobedy Attempt, Tien Shan. We hoped to climb Tuomur, which the Soviets call Pik Pobedy, from the Chinese side. Our Japanese women’s expedition was made up of Dr. Shiori Hashimoto, Yuko Kuramatu, Mayuri Yasuhara, Nobuko Yanagisawa, Ki...
San Lorenzo, Patagonia. This peak, 11,647 feet, probably the second highest in Patagonia, which lies on the Chilean-Argentine frontier, was first ascended by the Padre de Agostini, in 1941, with A. Hemmi and H. Schmoll. On January 19, 1956 the Arg...
Asgard, North Face of North Tower, “Valkyrie.” Chris Breemer and I put up a new line on the north face of the north tower of Asgard, which we completed on July 24 (VI, A4+; 14 pitches.) We had two days of good weather out of the fourteen we were o...
Black Peak, Bandarpunch. The 20,623-foot peak was climbed by four schoolboys led by Hari Dang on June 12 from a Camp III. Two were Sanjiv Sawhney and Maninder Singh. The mountain was first climbed in 1959 by Jagjit Singh’s Indian expedition.Kamal ...
FALL ON ROCK - LOOSE ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, CLIMBING ALONEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, The Diamond,On August 27 at 8:00 a.m., two NPS Climbing Rangers on the third pitch of Yellow Wall on The Diamond heard rockfall and saw ...
On Skis Over the Mountains, by Walter Mosauer. 8 vo., 85 pages, with xi diagrammatic plates. Hollywood. The Cloister Press. Price $0.50.This illustrated primer of modern skiing, based on the Arlberg technique, has been written by Dr. Mosauer, a me...
Bojohangur Duan Asir II or UltarSar Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Hasegawa had hoped to make the first ascent of Bojohangur Duan Asir II (7388 meters, 24,240 feet). They reached Base Camp at 3300 meters on the Ultar Glacier on Septe...
Teng Kang Poche, first ascent of the northeast face to east ridge. During November 2003 Jules Cartwright and I made two attempts on the 1,600m northwest face of Teng Kang Poche (6,500m), the first of which also included Al Powell. An easy approach...