Mukar Beh, Kulu. John Ashburner, Liam Carver and I arrived in Manali at the head of the Kulu valley on May 26 and left to set up Base Camp in the Solang Nullah on June 1 with twelve coolies and one high-altitude porter, an old and trusted friend S...
In September 2008 Dan Dingle, Bill Enger, and I completed Slab Daddy (V 5.10+ AO) on Squire Creek Wall near Darrington. The 22-pitch route, which took four years to complete, goes free except for a 10' section on pitch 20. There is a good bit of t...
Cerro Marconi and peaks north of Lake Argentino, Patagonia. An expedition of the Centre Andino Buenos Aires led by Carlos Comesaña climbed Cerro Marconi, which lies just to the west of FitzRoy, and several needles of the Tunel valley. Also in Janu...
Annapurna IV. Led by Masahiro Kawakita, the eight-man Kansai University expedition made the sixth ascent by the traditional route of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet) when Deputy Leader Munekazo Takeo and Kazuhiko Furuya reached the summit on April 25 fr...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, The ToothOn September 13, 1981, David Erickson (25) fell 150 feet from the East Face of The Tooth. His partner, Steve Bremner (26) said, “When he first fell, the pitons held for a sec...
Approach to the Hills, by C. F. Meade. 8 vo., 265 pages, with numerous illustrations from photographs, two maps and index. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1940. Price $2.75.Twenty-three essays make up this book of experiences by a famous climber...
Bolocho I, Bolocho V, and Bolocho VI, First Ascents. The British team of Stuart Muir and Dave Wilkinson were reported to have made ascents of three virgin peaks south of the Hispar Glacier during July and August. They began with a 5240-meter peak ...
Quadrant, West Face, Gothics Group. Rob Wallace and I put a new route up the west face of Quadrant in July. This spectacular face is rather Yosemite-like in its appearance. We managed to find a series of cracks and ledges, a few of which held pito...
Middle Tooth, West Face. A casual August ramble in the Sawtooth Ridge area, by Bill Sumner and me, turned up this interesting new route. Traveling light with no particular objective in mind, we walked up Blacksmith Creek, crossed to the west side ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, FAILURE TO TEST ANCHOR, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Wasatch RangeOn February 23, 1983, Kurt Fashimpuar (18) fell fifteen meters onto a scree slope when his two-and-a-half-centimeter webbing sling anchor broke just as he was about to rappel. ...
Chogolisa Attempt. Our Chogolisa crew met with an accident on July 18. We were descending the ice face of the 1975 Austrian route on the south face of the southwest summit in bad weather after reaching 6850 meters (22,474 feet). The night before w...
Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and Huascarán. The Iowa Mountaineers sponsored an expedition to the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and Huascarán in July. Led by John Ebert with Dr. Harold Walton as assistant, 63 members participated. Base Camp was erected on July ...
Gunnsbjørns Fjeld and Mont Forel. Franz Fischer, Tommy Sandberg, PerGunnar Bjurman and I made a 43-day expedition to East Greenland. We flew from Isafjordur, Iceland on July 24 with a ski-equipped Twin Otter to a glacier 20 kilometers north of Gun...
Oregon, Mt. Jefferson. On 30-31 August, Robert B. Nield (17) apparently set out to climb Mt. Jefferson alone. His body was found on Jefferson Glacier at about the 8,500 foot level. Apparently he had fallen 300 feet onto the glacier.Source: Newspap...
FALL ON WET ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION,INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE, EXPOSURE, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn March 7, Greg McFalls (28) and I, Joe Hardy (25), set out to climb Royal Arches (III 5.7). It...
Pasu Peak, 1978. The then unclimbed 23,897-foot Pasu Peak, above picturesque Hunza valley, was the target of the Pakistani-Japanese Services Expedition, sponsored by the Defence Academy Alpine Club of Japan and the Alpine Club of Pakistan. It had ...
Various Unsuccessful Expeditions to the Karakoram. Bad weather drove back a number of expeditions. Frenchmen under the leadership of Hubert Odier got to 23,950 feet on Gasherbrum II before being turned back. Germans led by Dr. Volker Stallbohm fai...
Winter mountaineering in the Himalayas has been extremely rare, but in November, 1937, C. R. Cooke and Mr. and Mrs. John Hunt made a number of ascents, in Sikkim. They climbed the Keilberg (18,960 ft.) and the Hunts reached 20,700 ft. on Sugar- lo...
CORNICE COLLAPSEBritish Columbia, Interior Ranges, Raft MountainOn June 24, 1987, Jill Hockey (30), an Australian exchange teacher, and three companions, made the one-and-a-half-hour hike to the top of Raft Mountain, a 2400-mcter peak near Wells G...
Iowa Mountaineers. Over 4,000 individuals participated in the club's instructional courses and climbing outings in 1995. Many of the courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit.The year began with over 200 members in cross-country ...