P 10,910, Second Ascent by a New Route, Hayes Group, Alaska Range. On April 24 Carl Tobin and I flew into the Hayes Group with Doug Geeting. We landed on the Turkey Glacier, which drains the southwestern flanks of Mount Hayes. We then skied to 820...
California, Kings Canyon National Park, Paradise Valley—On August 21, Charles Gibbons (16) of Hollywood, California, climbing in hazardous terrain with two companions, became stranded on a ledge approximately 1,000 feet above the floor of Paradise...
SLIP ON ICE, NO PROTECTION PLACED, CLIMBING ALONE— New York, Practice Cliffs near Patterson. H. J. Stepnowski reported that in March he fell 15 feet after discovering—the hard way—that a crucial foothold on a rock climb was iced over. He said “The...
Kharkiraa. Mauro Taramelli, Nicoletta Piazza and Stefano Crotta were taken by the Mongol Altai Club to the province of Ivs in northwest Mongolia. From Ulangoon, the regional capital, they rode on horseback to 3100 meters at the base of Kharkiraa. ...
Broken Tooth. “Broken Tooth” is the unofficial name that Alaskan mountaineers have applied to P 9050 on the divide between the Buckskin and Coffee Glaciers, 20 miles southeast of Denali. On May 7 Bob Plumb and I made the first ascent of Broken Too...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Abbot Pass—Four Montreal climbers, Bernard Poisson, Erwin Hodgson, Richard Willmott and Rodolphe de- Repentigny, traversed Mt. Victoria from the north on July 23. They stayed overnight at Abbot Pass.Next morning they ...
WET SNOW SLIDE, FALL ON ICE, UNROPED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Moraine Lake, 3-3½ CouloirTwo Yugoslavian mountaineers started down the 3-3½ Couloir, a steep 2,000-foot- high ice chute, from the Graham Cooper bivouac hut at noon on 20 August 1979. ...
Southern Pickets, East Twin Needle. McMillan Cirque was revisited in early July, and a very marked change was noted in the glaciers over the past six years; photos show higher ice walls on the bulge of the hanging glaciers, and two glaciers that w...
Mount Moran, South Buttress Right, variation. On July 13, 1969, Juris Krisjansons and Peter Habeler made a significant new variation of this massive buttress by climbing the rock between the Black Fin and the South Buttress Right route. Six leads ...
Salcantay, South Face and East Ridge. Our expedition took two days to get from Mollepata over Pampa Soray to Base Camp at 15,425 feet under the south face of Salcantay on June 2. The next day four of us reconnoitered the whole south and southeast ...
El Gran Trono Blanco, Giraffe, Second Ascent. In February, Lionel and Damien Daudet made the (possible) second ascent of the Giraffe Route (6c+ A3, 500m) on El Gran Trono Blanco.Jean-Marc Clerc, France
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club held its usual weekend trips to climbing areas in New England, including Orford, Whitehorse, Cathedral, and Franconia Notch. A new route was climbed on Owl’s Head, and Bartlett Tower...
Bethartoli Himal. An Italian expedition made the first ascent of Bethartoli Himal (20,840 feet), which had been unsuccessfully attempted at least four times. We climbed the previously unattempted north ridge. Traveling light, we approached the mou...
On August 23, Yvon Chouinard, Fred Beckey and I left camp on Deep Lake to climb a route up the center of the northwest face of East Temple, a sheer wall described by Orrin Bonney as "impossible" in his Guide to the Yyoming Mountains. The average a...
Ausangate, Southeast Spur. Our group of 22 climbers and trekkers reached Upis (14,600 feet) from Hacienda Tinki on July 1. There the arriero's helper fell ill to a respiratory illness and died just as we managed to get him back to Tinki. After som...
Avanarsuasua, Exploration. Our exploration of extreme north Greenland continued in July. Our interests were once again broadly based. Dr. Ko deKorte and Peter Baldwin completed their study of the region’s bird populations. Dr. Lawrence Hacquebord ...
Misti and. Other Peaks, pre-Columbian Ascents. In 1979 the Museo de la Universidad Nacional de San Agustín, Arequipa, released the news that Peruvians had on two occasions in 1966 found in very high, unspecified places on the slopes of Nevado Coro...
Hungabee, Southeast Ridge. The southeast ridge of Hungabee (11,457 feet), starting with Kenkchemna Peak, had apparently never been climbed. In July an attempt with Walter Schrauth ended after a storm and bivouac on Wenkchemna. On August 17 Walter ...
Aleta del Tiburón, La Hoja, La Máscara and Other Peaks, Paine Group. Our joint expedition from the Universities of Grenoble and Santiago consisted of nine Frenchmen and seven Chileans. Our achievements were greater than our expectations. Patagonia...
Cirque of the Towers, solo traverse. Squinting into the sun, I stood on the top of War Bonnet gazing across at what I had just traversed, the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Mountains. Above me cumulus clouds benignly drifted by, resisting ...