Peaks near Gunnsbjørns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains. Our expedition members were Greg Englefield, Lewis Jones, Nick Hulton and I as leader. It was intended as a training expedition for a long journey down the east coast in either 1989 or 1990. In June...
Oregon, Mt. Hood, The Chute. On 31 July after making a successful ascent of the usual South side route under ideal weather and climbing conditions, Ken Early (34) slipped while cramponning down a steep hard snow slope unroped. He slid and tumbled ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON SNOW ON DESCENT California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchAt least ten or twelve people slipped on snow descending Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta. Most appear to have been inexperienced. For example, one woman was carrying her ice...
Rakaposhi, North Ridge. A Japanese Waseda University expedition of seven was led by Eiho Ohtani. They climbed the north ride, which had been unsuccessfully attempted in 1971 by Dr. Herrligkoffer’s German expedition. Base Camp was established at 12...
Savoia Kangri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Jan Tichý, Jirí Ulrych, my brother Zdenek Lukeš and me. All but my brother are Czechs in exile. We set up Base Camp on June 6 at the junction of the Godwin Austen and Savoia Glaciers at 16,400 ...
Second American Karakoram Expedition. In continuance of the excellent work of last year’s American Alpine Club Expedition to K2, a second party will leave for Kashmir, sailing from New York on March 17th. The members of the party are : Chappell Cr...
LIGHTNINGBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, South Howser TowerOn August 3, 1987, two climbers (30) left the Bugaboo Hut and climbed in good weather to the base of Great White Headwall on the Chouinard-Beckey route on the west face of the South H...
The Colorado Mountain Club. The Club, with over 9,000 members, has a primary clubhouse in Golden, Colorado. It has eighteen associated groups in other parts of the state, as well as a "Friends of Colorado" group that accepts members from anywhere ...
Cariboo Range. This range is now officially the McLennan Range (C.A.J., XXI, 94). The first crossing was made in 1947 by R. T. Zillmer and his son, from Tête Creek to Canoe River, thence to the N. Thompson and out to Gosnell (C.A.J., XXI, 21). A g...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The principal club activity was the August outing at Island Lake in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming, with 49 members participating. For the first time in several years the Club completely outfitted the camp, and the arrange...
Dorje Lhakpa. Our joint expedition was composed of Germans Klaus Stark, leader, Mathias Rau, Helmut Müller, Dr. Bernd Meyer and me and Nepalese Ang Pasang and Pemba Tarke. We used a new approach from the south through the Balephi Khola. Three Japa...
Manaslu, East Face. Fifteen members of a South Korean expedition were killed when on April 10 avalanches overwhelmed their Camp III at 21,300 feet. The dead were four Koreans including the leader, Kim Ho Sup, one Japanese and ten Sherpas. There su...
Auzangate Massif, mapping and new approach route. In early May, Brad Johnson and I, accompanied by three American clients and supported by five Peruvians, spent 10 days in the Cordillera Vilcanota collecting field data for an upcoming map of the r...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Activities for the year started with a sociable spring party that included slides and refreshments at a private home. Next came a Section climbing/picnic weekend. Fall saw a meeting featuring Dave Jay’s fine slides and nar...
Satopanth. Our expedition was composed of Jean-Bemard and Michel Loste, Jean-Louis Roquefeuil and me as leader. We climbed the normal route on Satapanth. We established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4900, 5350 and 6000 meters on July 7,11 and 13...
Yukshin Gardan Sar, Second Ascent. Our joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition was composed of Japanese Kenshiro Otaki, leader, Akio Hayakawa, Fumihide Saito, Tetsuei Hanzawa, Dr. Ichiro Shirouzu and me and Pakistanis Major Sher Khan, deputy leader, R...
Atlas Mountains, Taghia Gorge, Les Rivieres Pourpres and Sul Filo della Notte. Visiting the remote Taghia Gorge in Morocco this October, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia, and Michele Paissan established the stellar 12-pitch Sul Filo della Notte (...
Garhwal. During June and July, 1954, Gurdial Singh and Lav Kumar climbed Lama Surjang (16,860 feet) (near Niti), Point 17,550 feet, and Silakang (both on Indian – Tibetan frontier), and failed on Rata Pahar (17,220 feet) (west of Gamsali).
Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Due to poor weather on our arrival in this range, our original objective, the unclimbed north ridge of Pumasillo, was changed to a climb of the standard, west route. We reached the summit on July 19. Three camps w...
Torre Central del Paine, East Face. A full article appears earlier in this Journal about the remarkable new route climbed by Britons on the east face of the Torre Central del Paine between the 1991 German and the 1974 South African routes.