Buck Mountain, the Wedge. On August 1 Peter Lev, Herb Swedlund and I walked into the south fork of Avalanche Canyon to try the "Wedge," a vertical facet on the north face of Buck Mountain, west of Emerson’s route on the north-northwest ridge. That...
Ausangate. We left Tinki on June 13 and traveled through Upis to Pucacocha. We climbed to a pass between Pucacocha and Ausangate- cocha on Ausangate’s south ridge and started up the ridge. At 17,000 feet we traversed right to camp on the southeast...
Blow Me Down Provincial Park, Ice Routes. On January 1, Arthur Haines and I took the ferry to Port-aux-Basques, Newfoundland. Our plan was to climb ice routes rumored to be located above the large inland fjords within Gros Morne National Park. How...
Hualca Hualca, Cordillera Volcánica. An Italian expedition had as members Celso Salvetti, leader, Vittorio Meroni, Fabio and Mariola Masciadri, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Mario Bignami and Ludovico Gaetani. Their first objective had been a complete trave...
“Crow Peaks”. Two great buttresses rise to the several summits of the “Crow Peaks” on the west side of Bow Lake above the Icefields Highway. On June 30 Steve Marts and I climbed the northernmost buttress, which leads directly to the northern summi...
Fitz Roy. West German Reinhard Karl (killed later in the spring of 1982 on the south face of Cho Oyu) and Spaniard Luis Fraga were plagued by the usual bad weather in Patagonia in late 1981 and early 1982. Over a period of two months, using the be...
Cirque of the Towers, Warrior I, Northwest Face. In late August Brian Edmiston and I, both from Carbondale, Colorado, freed the 60-foot A3 hook traverse on the stunning 1,000-foot Northwest Face route on Warrior I at IV 5.11R. No bolts or pins wer...
Shangtang Group, Zanskar Range. A ten-man expedition of the Council of Himalayan Exploration and Research, Calcutta, operated in the Kuti valley. Pradeep Dasgupta was the leader. Nitai Roy, Dilip Bhattacharjee and two Sherpas on September 25 climb...
Sloan Peak, Fire on the Mountain. Rad Roberts and I established a new route on the southwest face of Sloan Peak that, compared to new routes established in the ’Rado or California, would be a grade IV. But going by the AAC’s use of the IV definiti...
Cordón de la Jaula. Members of the Club Andinista Mendoza, Roberto Supkay, Marcelo Quiroga and Miguel Angel Alfonso made two first ascents in the Cordón de la Jaula: San Esteban (17,717 feet) and Pico Rosa (17,553 feet).
Baudha. An expedition from Keio University of seven members was led by Yasuhiko Iso. After establishing Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Churen Khola, they set up high camps, Camp III being at 20,200 feet. During the first summit attempt on April 2...
FALLING ICEWashington, Mount BakerMaurice Vinet (33), Thomas Baker (24), and Clayton Straseske (32) were struck by an icefall and snow slide on Mount Baker on July 16, 1981.Baker, an employee of Liberty Bell Alpine Tours, had been leading the thre...
Ganesh IV. A South Korean expedition led by Joo Si-Jeong climbed Ganesh IV (7102 meters, 23,300 feet) via the south face, establishing three high camps. Korean Lee Sung-Ryul and Sherpas Dorje and Ajiwa reached the summit on October 5. They complet...
Days of Fresh Air, by the Rt. Hon. L. S. Amery, M.P. 8 vo.;320 pages, with 53 illustrations and index. London: Jarrolds, Ltd., 1939. Price 16s.The coincidence of having gone to the Boer War and also to have climbed one or many high peaks connects ...
Spantik, Ascents. Frenchman Daniel Petraud climbed Spantik (7027m) twice, the first time on August 15 with three other climbers. He then went on to scale the peak another time, following the ridge all the way from base camp to top and back on Augu...
Peaks above Cline Valley. Joseph C. LaBelle, Jr., Earl J. McWhorter, Thomas R. Stengle, Guy P. Perry, my husband Howard D. Stidham and I climbed over Sunset Pass and down the Cline Valley. After crossing Huntington and Cataract Creeks, we reached ...
Mount Gilbert, Northeast Couloir. On September 3, Al Fowler, Ron Cale and I climbed the prominent ice chute on the northeast face of Mount Gilbert. The roped portion began at the first obvious crevasse (a very low snow year) and continued for six ...
On January 15, 1983, Bruce Spiegelberg (22) fell eight meters while rappelling on Mt. Bonnell. “I was looking up, and it happened just like that,” Spiegelberg said from his bed in Brackenridge Hospital. “It was probably a piece of glass, because t...
Mitre Peak. My wife Marie Jeanne Ghirardini, liaison officer Noveed Rahman and I started on our approach march on April 28 and got to Base Camp on May 26 after two weeks of acclimatization at Hotto and Rdokas. I left Base Camp on May 30 to bivouac...
Huascarán. The Argentine Ernesto José Colombero and the Peruvian Rigoberto Aramburú climbed the north peak of Huascarán on July 15. They found the route to the Garganta rather more crevassed than usual and were forced north of the usual route.