Spokane Mountaineers. New routes and historic trails were equally fascinating during 1959. In the Idaho Selkirks Don Bergman led first-ascent routes on the north face of Chimney Rock, Gunsight Peak, and Roman Nose for a combined 1500 feet of class...

Correction: On page 543 of A.A.J., 1978 it was incorrectly stated that “Mount Vancouver was first climbed in 1938 by Noel Odell and party.” The ascent actually took place on July 5, 1949. Although Odell was a member of the party, the leader of the...

Half Dome, Blue Shift. On June 1, Karl McConachie and I completed a new route on Half Dome. Blue Shift (VI 5.11c A4) follows crack systems that lie between Arcturas and Same As It Never Was, a route that Karl, Randal Grandstaff and I put up in 198...

Almost all of the new route activity in the Tetons was concentrated in the Death Canyon area. Both the south walls leading to Prospectors Mountain, and the north walls leading to Peak 10552, as well as Buck Mountain itself, were attacked with spec...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE RELAY- IMPROPER USE OF RELAY DEVICE Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Whittle WallOn May 27, 1994, a climber (37) was leading on “The Whittle Wall” on Red Garden Wall near “The Bulge.” He failed ...

Mount Logan, South-Southwest Spur Attempt. Urs Kallen, Dave Lloyd, Murray Toft, Dick Renshaw, Ron Langevin and I arrived at Base Camp below the south-southwest spur of Mount Logan on May 27. Between May 28 and June 9 we fixed 6000 feet of rope up ...

Mount Redoubt, 1979. Dave Haring, Don Spurlock and I climbed Mount Redoubt (10,197 feet) from July 3 to 8, 1979 via the northwest ridge and glacier system. Winds in excess of 60 mph pinned us down for a day in our 6000-foot-high camp.Stephen Kruse

California, Matterhorn Peak—On June 15, while descending a broad snow chute on Matterhorn Peak, George Wallerstein (28) tripped and fell. As he attempted a self-arrest with his ice ax somehow he was impaled on the point, which went completely thro...

FALL ON ROCK, NUT FAILURE—New York, Shawangunks. A nineteen-year-old former NOLS (National Outdoor Leadership School) instructor fell on the first pitch of Frog’s Head—a 5.5 route—pulling a hex nut and dropping 30 feet to the ground, breaking a ha...

Little Iskander and Pik Domaskaya, Ak Su. Fabrizio Defrancesco, Stefano Nicolussi and I climbed above the Ak Su valley in July. After a two-day approach, we set up Base Camp at 2800 meters on June 30. We were attracted to the 750-meter-high face o...

P 11,300, West Face Couloir, West Fork of Ruth Glacier. Bob Crawford and I flew to the Ruth Glacier on April 17. After several days of storm and reconnaissance, we climbed a hidden couloir on the west face of P 11,300. The couloir was 2500 feet lo...

Alberta, Banff National Park, Mt. Rundle—On August 10, Mr. and Mrs. Ronald A. Weisner, Mr. Paul Bloland, all of Minneapolis, and Miss Ruth Seefeldt of Des Moines, members of the Iowa Mountaineers, attempted to climb Mt. Rundle.They were driving to...

Alpamayo; Artesonraju, East Face; Artesonraju; Aguja Nevada, North Face; Caraz Este, North Face; Quitaraju. The Dartmouth Mountaineering Club Andean Expedition was composed of John and Spaff Ackerly, Tim Ammons, Chris Copeland, B.A. Doyle, Blake K...

RAPPEL FAILURE, PITON FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lyell GroupStuart Price and three companions were returning to camp on 2 August 1979 after practising crevasse rescue on a stormy day. Price and a companion started up a rock gully but decided...

Colonial Peak, Northeast Gully, East Ridge. On July 5, Scott Mason-holder and I left Colonial Creek Campground and hiked up the new 1½-mile trail which follows Colonial Creek on the left side. Leaving the trail, we followed a dry creek bed which l...

Grand Teton, Second Tower, South Ridge. This difficult route was first climbed on August 2 by David Ingalls and Scott Brun. After a start in the couloir between the Second Tower and the summit of the Grand, the party ascended a red dihedral in eig...

Trapecio, West-southwest Buttress, Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 12 to 18 our expedition from the Meda Section of the Italian Alpine Club attempted to climb the south face of Sarapo, stopping at the final schrund because the ice conditions highe...

Gunnbjornsfjeld, Ascents. I took a group of (mostly) senior citizens to climb Gunnbjornsfjeld, the highest peak on Greenland, and in the Arctic. This was my third guided ascent of the peak. We flew out of Iceland and landed on the ice of Greenland...

Colorado Mountain Club — Growth describes the year 1964 for The Colorado Mountain Club. An increase in membership from 1500 to 1800, plus two new groups, one in Aspen and a Junior (teenagers 14-21) in Boulder, brought the total number of C.M.C. gr...

Maiktoli, South Ridge. A Japanese six-man party led by Hitoshi Fukuriki made the first ascent of the south ridge of Maiktoli (22,320 feet). From Base camp at 12,500 feet, they started up the southeast spur of the south ridge. Camps I, II, III and ...