Chopicalqui and Alpamayo. From May 24 to July 4 Oswald Duba, Fredy Graf, Gerhard Rathmayr, Marcel Rüdi and I were in the Cordillera Blanca. We climbed Chopicalqui by the southwest ridge from Camp II in the Chopicalqui-Huascarán col. We climbed Alp...
BarbarossaWhen getting up is not nearly enough: the first ascent of Yamandaka, in the Indian Karakoram.Mark RicheyBraced precariously at the edge of the waterfall, Mark Wilford hesitated for a terrifying moment to assess the situation. He fought t...
Mount Patterson, East Buttress. From Bow Summit, Peyto Lake and Mount Patterson are a colorful view. John Rupley and I looked at the peak to find a suitable and safe route through the confusion of cliffs, glaciers, and summit bands of questionable...
Mt. Logan: Third Ascent.* On 17 May 1950 Gordon Herried, Mark Christensen, Harvey Turner and I headed for Chitina with 850 lbs. of food and equipment. We had been planning an ascent of Mt. Logan all the previous winter and took food to last at lea...
FALL ON SNOW, AVALANCHE (TWICE), POOR POSITION, LATE START, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-STOVEAlberta, Lake Louise, Wapta Ice Field, Peyto Glacier ApproachOn March 19, Ken Fischer (32), myself—Jonathan Fischer (29), and my wife Carey (31) began what we th...
Southeast Section. Throughout 2008 the AAC Sections Committee focused on the objective of bringing our Club closer to grass-roots membership, developing a stronger sense of AAC community within the sections, and encouraging more locally initiated ...
Truth be told, Kelly Cordes didn’t really want to work with me. My very first task as the new AAJ editor in February 2002 was to talk Kelly into staying on in his part-time position gathering reports from new routes in North and South America. The...
The Brenta DolomitesPaul T. Christie“IF you enjoy rock climbing, you must do the Guglia di Brenta,” said our congenial Austrian acquaintance, sipping his coffee and looking up at the sleet-covered aiguilles of Chamonix.We had just had a punishing,...
lndrasan, Punjab. The Kyoto University Punjab Himalaya Expedition consisted of Professor of Biochemistry Konoshin Onodera, leader, Toshiaki Sakai, deputy leader, and the students Yoshitsugi Omori, Kojiro Tomita, Jiro Tanaka, Yasumasa Miyaki and To...
Unexpected: Thirty Years Of Patagonia Catalog Photography. Jane Sievert and Jennifer Ridgeway, eds. Patagonia Books, 2010. 213 pages. Hardcover. $49.00.The photographs collected here are beautiful and inspiring.We all know in our cynical little he...
New York Section. While the New York Section, now a record 750 members strong, hosts a variety of outdoor and indoor events, both winter and fall, it is perhaps best known for its annual black tie dinner. This year was especially significant as it...
Number ofTotalAccidentsReportedPersonsInvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN1951152211319523135171319532427121219543141318195534392861956467254131957455328181958323923111959422562310192196047464123781941961499611445101441962711901640191...
Samuel Harlow Goodhue 1922-2006Sam was recruited by Joe Dodge in 1947 to do “useful” things around the Old Rockpile. Over the span of the next 60 years, that list of useful things came to be an enormous litany of accomplishment. In the days when t...
Quarry Peak, East Face. Quarry Peak has a broad expansive face above remote Matterhorn Canyon in the far northeastern portion of Yosemite National Park. Gary Slate and I made the second route on this face, one well to the north of the Bartlett-Cle...
London Bridge, On the Frozen Roads of Our Incertitudes, and various repeats. P.J. from Doug Geeting Aviation dropped Jerome Mercader and I on the Ruth Glacier, below Mt. Barrill, on May 1. The following day we climbed the Ham and Eggs Gully (15h r...
Olympics, Washington: (2) South Brother. On 2 October 1948 a party of Bremerton High School students went into the Brothers Peaks. On the 3rd some of them attempted the South Peak, but most turned back a short distance from the summit because of r...
Langtang Liring Attempt. French climbers led by Denis Chatrefou reached only 16,400 feet on the east ridge of Langtang Lining when after three days of climbing in the post-monsoon season an avalanche buried men in Camp I; they got out after a stru...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILURENorth Carolina, Looking Glass Rock, The Womb.Ian Randall (26) and I, Josh Whitmore (23), both experienced climbers were climbing The Womb (5.11) on the north side of Looking Glass Rock on June 9. The accident occurr...
Baba TangiA team of sisters makes the first ascent of the northwest ridge of Koh-e-Baba-Tangi (6,516m), Afghanistan.Pat DeavollI’d long wanted to climb in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, but with one war or another, the country had been out of boun...
DUSAN JAGERSKY 1940-1977 A few minutes before midnight on June 14, 1977, Dusan Jagersky and A1 Givler were tragically killed while descending from the summit of a unnamed peak in Alaska’s Fairweather range. I met Dusan in early 1972, a few short...