Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire. On 19 June Donald J. Peterson (29), Jerry L. DaBell (25), Rick DaBell (19), William H. Radtke (36), and Robert H. Deal (28) climbed Symmetry Spire by its North West route and reached the summit a...
Siachen Glacier Basin. The Imperial College Karakoram Expedition was sponsored and largely financed by the Imperial College of Science, London. The objectives were to fill in blanks on the map of the Siachen Glacier basin and adjacent areas and to...
On April 24, Ben Kiessel (27), Chris Scharf (38) and Chris Lackey (39) landed on the Root Canal Glacier below the South Face of the Moose’s Tooth with the intention of climbing the “Ham and Eggs” route. On April 27, they had climbed up to the ei...
By coincidence I took over the editorship of the American Alpine Journal the year the American Alpine Club turned 100. To commemorate the occasion, we devoted 60-some pages in the 2002 AAJ to looking back on AAC history and on events in American c...
Alpine-Style in the Tschang-TangA long pulk through Tibetby Frank KauperTRANSLATED BY CHRISTIANE LEITINGER“It’s torture—the hands cannot be used, the map rips, and one asks oneself if one can make it alive to the next camp! The lips are swollen an...
North Face of the Mönch and West Face of the BlaitièreJohn HarlinWINTER ASCENT OF THE MÖNCH S NORTH FACEThe day after our unsuccessful attempt at the direttissima on the Eigerwand, Martin Epp introduced himself, for he was at Scheidegg as a ski in...
Arizona, Santa Catalina Mountains—On April 20, 1954, three University fo Arizona students, William Bingham (21), Robert Frederick (21) and Ned Cranston (21) started up Mt. Lemmon to find Picture Rock and Finger Rock. Late in the afternoon, Bingham...
Parallel worlds: the American (left) and Russian teams hard at work on the headwall pitches on Great Trango's northwest face. Photo by Yuri Koshelenko. I first heard the name Trango in 1992, when I had just begun climbing in competitions.* Th...
Amin Brakk, partial new route. The Russian Extreme Project, comprising climbers Sergey Kovalev, Alexander Lastochkin, Valery Rozov and Arcady Seregin with cameramen Lev Dorfman and Dmitry Lifanov, climbed a partial new route on the ca 1,250m West ...
Stranger Than Fact: The Climber in FictionE. Cushing and J. M. Thorington“But you, too, have climbed,” Chayne cried at length.“On winter nights by my fireside,” replied Garratt Skinner with a smile. “I have a game leg which would hinder me.”— (The...
HENRY CECIL JOHN HUNT 1910-1999Lord Hunt, who led the successful British expedition that made the first ascent of Everest, and who was an honorary member of The American Alpine Club, died on November 8, 1998. He was 89.Some men do things right. Jo...
CANFIELD BEATTIE 1900–1987Dr. Canfield Beattie died on August 18, 1987 in Portland, Oregon at the age of 86. He was a long-time member of both the American Alpine Club and the Alpine Club of Canada, having joined the AAC in 1935 and the ACC in 193...
Uli Byapjun; Uli Biaho Great Spire, first ascent; Base Camp Slabs, Piranski zaliv; Trango Tower, Eternal Flame, one-day ascent. Many climbers say that late summer weather in Karakoram is more suitable for rock climbing, so our group chose that tim...
Cuerno Principal, Variant to Line of First Ascent. Alexandra Schultheis, Michael Cross, and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia for a week-long stay in Towers of Paine National Park. During our visit we attempted a new rock route on the the highest of...
Fatal Mountaineer: The High-Altitude Life and Death of Willi Unsoeld, American Himalayan Legend. Robert Roper. New York: St. Martins Press, 2002.306 pages. Hardcover. $25.95.I will begin this review with a disclaimer. As far as I can remember, I n...
Lama Lamani North (5,650m), west face; Peak 5,500m; Jopuno (5,936m), west ridge, attempt. Inspired by the writing of British mountaineer Roger Payne (AAJ 2008), Geoff Cohen, Bob Hamilton, Dick Isherwood, Steve Kennedy, Dave Ritchie (all UK), and I...
Lower Cathedral Rock, The New North Face, Previously Unreported. The north face of Lower Cathedral Rock has arguably the shortest approach of any wall in the Valley. It is blissfully cool in the summer and overhangs ominously over South Side Drive...
Hanuman Tibba or Bruce’s Solang Weisshorn. In his book Kulu and Lahoul Brigadier General C. G. Bruce describes the first ascent of the mountain he named “Solang Weisshorn” (19,450 feet) on the Kulu-Bara Bangahal divide, a few miles northwest of Ma...
Bipetig Valley Nature Preserve, background information. Bipeng Valley has at least 40 (maybe over 60) unclimbed 5,000+ meter peaks. In 2003 a paved access road was completed into the valley. This makes accessing this cluster of mountains easy and ...
Mount Hunter, Two Japanese Expeditions. Two different groups from Japan were on the Kennedy-Lowe route on the north face of Mount Hunter. Yutake Shinohara and Masamitsu Urayama started up the face on May 1. On May 4 they found themselves blocked b...