Rocky Mountain National Park, Various Ascents. Tricky to describe what started it, but the 1998 summer season in RMNP saw a frenzy of new route activity the likes of which haven’t been seen for years. For those involved, it meant a mad time of plo...
Yala, west-southwest ridge, attempt. From October 20 to November 1 the GORE-AAIC First Ascents team attempted a new route on the west-southwest ridge of Yala (a.k.a. Yala Xeushan, Zhara, Ja-ra, or Haizi Shan, the King of Mountains, 5,833m). Our ex...
THOMAS RIGGS1873-1945Thomas Riggs, an honorary member of the Club, was born in Ilchester, Md., October 17, 1873, and died in nearby Washington in January, 1945, but during his more than three-score years and ten he spent much of his time thousands...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved.1951-601959-601961U.S.CAN.U.S.CAN.TerrainRock 2611332Snow173121810River 1000Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 1906229Descent2147242Unknown30051Imm...
A Code to Climb ByLeading climbers gather in Tyrolia to shape the ethical foundation of their sport.Eliza MoranIn September, 2002, more than 100 representatives of mountaineering federations and elite climbers from around the world arrived in Inns...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Kings Canyon National Park, North DomeIn mid-June, we—Brandon Thau (23), Matthew Pollard (24), and Jennifer Pollard (25)—completed a new route up North Dome, topping out around 4:00 p.m. The climb had involved ...
Peak 8,530', North Face, First Ascent. In July, after bushwhacking up the drainage for a day and a half, Carl Oswald and Karen Hilton ascended the unclimbed north face of Peak 8,530' via 3,500 feet of alpine ice up to 70 degrees. After summiting, ...
Dragon’s Tooth/Longya Feng (5,250m), east ridge attempt; Peak 5,138m, north face attempt; logistical notes. Jon Otto, China’s greatest first ascensionist, tipped me off about the potential of the Bipeng Valley. My initial foray into the valley was...
Manaslu, East-Northeast Face, Ascent and Tragedy. We (Sergio Martini, Leader; Renzo Benedetti, Luca Campagna, First Group; Abele Blanc, Marco Camandona, Paolo Obert, Adriano Favre, Claudio Rosset, Second Group) left on foot from Gorka on September...
The Desert, various activity. Many new routes were established in the Moab area by Joe Slansky, and in the Castle Valley area by Greg Child and partners.They were wall climbs under 400' in height. Further information is available at www.climbingmo...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyMark Hesse (31) and John Hesse (29) of the Hesse Amputee expedition were flown into Kahiltna Base Camp on April 29, 1982. John had no right leg and Mark’s plan was to assist his brother up the ...
PROTECTION CAME OUT-FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, DARKNESSCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, The NoseOn May 14, Brian Smudz and Yanchun Su climbed from the ground to Dolt Tower, without fixing any part of the route. They had planned on on...
Mt. Asgard, Mt. Overlord, Mt. Turnweather, Ascents. To travel north of the Arctic Circle, journey five days amid otherworldy landscapes to the base of a 4,000-foot granite monolith, then ascend an unending system of solid cracks to the summit in t...
Arches National Park. The park experienced its busiest year both in tourist visitation and climbing activity. A number of new routes were established on its relatively dense Entrada Sandstone walls. The park continues to encourage climbing (althou...
Meru and Chaturangi, 1980. On the maps Meru has two peaks, the more northerly being noted at 6672 meters (21,890 feet) and the southern summit at 6660 meters (21,851 feet). Osamu Shimada and Tamotsu Iwashima of the Japanese Hida Alpine Club climbe...
Lemon Mountains, Various First Ascents. The British Lemon Mountains Expedition 2000 was an exploratory climbing expedition to part of Greenland’s east coast. Together with a visit to the area in 1999, our plan was to explore the beautiful Lemons a...
New York Section. The New York Section hosts a variety of outdoor and indoor social events throughout the year. Among the perennials is a Winter Outing held each year in the Adirondacks, as well as a June get-together at the Ausable Club there. Ho...
Mini-Moonflower, Dempster-Wilson. On May 19 my cousin Kyle Dempster and I departed Kahiltna Base camp for the Mini-Moonflower, just beyond Mt. Hunter’s renowned North Buttress. This day held special importance for us, marking the three-year annive...
JOSEPH M. BUSWELL1910-1994Joseph Buswell was a long-time member of the American Alpine Club and the Seattle Mountaineers. He was president of the Mountaineers from 1948 to 1950 and was given their annual Service Plaque Award in 1958. At one time h...
McArthur Peak, Huge in Europe and Night Shift; Mt. Logan, attempt. In early May, Jesse Thompson, Rich Searle, and I, Joe Josephson, flew with Andy Williams from Kluane Lake, Yukon, to the south face of McArthur Peak, which shares a base camp site ...