AlpsAnniversaries. Conditions abroad have naturally precluded any celebrations, but mountaineers throughout the world should recall that 1940 was the bicentenary of the birth of the Genevese scientist de Saussure, who ascended Mont Blanc in 1787. ...
Sajama. On June 1 Dr. Cleve Armstrong, Robin McIntosh, Karen Ann Young, Richard Markham and I reached the summit of Sajama (6542 meters, 21,463 feet) via the west rib. After making extensive research, we believe that ours was the first American as...
Monte Sarmiento, Tierra del Fuego. A group of four Italians led by Giuseppe Agnolotti attempted to climb the west peak of Sarmiento in December, 1969 and January, 1970. They failed because of bad weather.
Washington, Spokane, Tower Mountain. On 22 May Frank Tavares (42) and his son Russell (Rusty), age 19, began a climb of the west face of Big Rock at approximately 6:00 p.m. PST. Rusty led to a point about 80 feet above the base of the route, ancho...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome), North Face. Um Gae-Sung and two other Koreans established three camps on the north face of Tarke Kang. Um and two Sherpas, Pasang Norbu and Lhakpa Tshering, went to the summit on October 27.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan C...
Mount Stewart, North Face. A long approach on the High Sierra Trail and up Lone Pine Creek ended at the base of the previously unclimbed north face of Mount Stewart. On the following day, August 19, Mike Graber, Jack Roberts and I started out on t...
P 6230, Kishtwar Himal. Bob Reid and I made the first ascent of P 6230, previously known to some as “Kishtwar Weisshorn.” We climbed the southwest face of this pyramidal mountain. We approached from the Dharlang Nala with six excellent porters fro...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Banff Area, Sunshine SlabsSunshine Slabs is a short practice cliff just west of Banff. One summer day in 1991, a climber (30) was leading on steep, loose corners to t...
Paldor and Other Peaks, Ganesh Himal, 1986. Gareth Yardley, David O’Dowd and I made these climbs in the post-monsoon period of 1986, members of the British Mountaineering Council. After acclimatizing on a number of smaller peaks, including P 4900 ...
Chaudhara. Indians led by Professor A.R. Chandekar attempted Rajrambha and on June 2 made the first ascent of Chaudhara (21,364 feet), northwest of Panchchuli. After ascending the Ralam River, they made Base Camp on the Shiva Glacier at 13,800 fee...
FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Rig and Little Cottonwood CanyonsThe three “official” accident reports from Special Operations Director Thad Moore— Salt Lake City Sheriff's Office—parallel the other reports I have from climbers and guide...
IMPROPER FOOTWEAR—Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett’s Peak. Elizabeth Wilson (23) and Gary Neptune had completed a technical climb of Hallett Peak (Jackson-Johnson route) and had successfully descended back to the base of the route f...
Climate Related Landscapes in World Mountains Criteria and Map. Will F. Thompson. “Annals of Geomorphology,” Gebrüder Bornraeger, Berlin/ Stuttgart, 1990. 92 pages, 61 photographs, 1 map, 1 table. Price $50.00 (approximate dollar-conversion value)...
Augusta and Logan Twin PackDon Serl, Alpine Club of CanadaWHERE I COME FROM, you’ve climbed a mountain when you can spit off the far side. Also, where I come from, Mount Logan is the biggest mountain there is, with a south face that is absolutely ...
Aguja Poincenot, Whillans Route. On March 1, 1997, Tom Douglas, Todd Hoffman, Gabe Schlumberger and I climbed the Whillans route on Poincenot. We left our snow cave at the Paso Superior at 4 a.m., and were at the base of the climb by around 7 a.m....
Yosemite: Haifa Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing. Alexander Huber (author) and Heinz Zak (photographer). Birmingham, Alabama: Menasha Ridge Press, 2003. 176 pages. Hardcover. $45.00.Heinz Zak’s photos caught me first. He is quite simply the best c...
Southern Sierra Rock Climbing, Needles. Sally Moser, Greg Vernon, Patrick Paul. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, CO, 1992. 230 pages, 118 photos, 69 drawings. $18.00.It was with mixed feelings that I first opened the new guidebook to the Needles. Alth...
Reaching the summit of Yangmolong was the accumulation of three years’ effort. In 2009 we attempted the south side, but unseasonably warm conditions made climbing unsafe. Rocks and ice raining down on the party from the summit ridge forced a...
Mt. McKinley, South and North Peaks, 1932A. D. LindleyA LTHOUGH a first ascent is quite properly regarded as a supreme prize for the climber, a mountain often possesses such a historical background and such an imposing stature as to make it a wort...
A large, out-of-the-ordinary storm struck Utah on January 25. It snowed heavily along the Wasatch Front until noon and then switched to a mixture of heavy rain and snow, and later in the afternoon went back to snowing. Ice climbers were on the ice...