Stok and Dhampu Peaks, Various Ascents. It was reported that Alberto Urtasun and Patricia Viscarret made the first ascent of the northeast face of a peak they dubbed “Dhampu Peak” (5150m) in the Lahaul Valley via the route Marsa (30-80°, 400m). Th...
Chaukhamba. A 38-man team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Assistant Commandant Vinod K. Dandona. Despite very deep snow, they established Base Camp at 4725 meters on the Bhagirath Kharak Glacier on May 22. Camp II was set up on May ...
The Tetons. During the past two summers considerable attention has been given to the unclimbed routes and peaks of Grand Teton National Park. A short description follows of the climbs, from south to north, made this year or last and not previously...
Kilimanjaro, Credner Glacier. What started out as a centennial commemoration of Hans Meyer’s first ascent of Kilimanjaro 100 years ago evolved into an exploration of the westernmost ridge and a new route up the remote Credner Glacier. The team was...
Vinaya, Antaimarca and Vichgana, Cordillera Vilcanota, and Allinccapac, Cordillera Carabaya. Our expedition of the Munich section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was composed of Herbert Konnerth, Bernd Lukas, Rainer Stolz, Horst Ullrich, Felix Gol...
Idaho, Cliff near Lava Hot Springs—On June 2, 1954, Ray Duane Richards (17) fell while descending a cliff. He and a companion had successfully climbed the cliff and during the descent, Richards apparently lost his footing and fell 75 ft. to his de...
Factory Butte, San Rafael Swell, School for Advanced Suffering. The route was first climbed by Cheryl Hogan and me on December 22, 1994. Cheryl bailed off at pitch one after passing out due to mild hypothermia. I continued the route, free soloing ...
P 6230, South of Umasi La, Kishtwar Himalaya. On July 25, Ian Mills, Neil Brown and I climbed a new route, the north face of P 6230 (20,440 feet). It had previously been climbed by the south face. We ascended a steep 1500-foot glacial snout to 14,...
Everest, Great Couloir. Our expedition was composed of Italians Graziano Bianchi, Battistino Bonali, Dr. Giuliano De Marchi, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio Salini, Wolfgang Thomaseth and me as leader and Czechoslovak Leopold Sulovsky. We set up Base Ca...
Tsangpo Gorge, exploration from India. Motup Chewang, Wing Cdr. V K Sashindran, and I traveled from the Brahmaputra along the Siang River to the Tsangpo Gorge where it enters the Indian territory. Though a few parties have explored the “Great Tsan...
Cuerno Principale, East Face. The still-unattempted east face of Cuerno Principale (2450 meters) was the target of a German team from Neu Ulm. Because of dangerous stonefall in the central part, the route was climbed by the 650-meter left side. Mo...
Mount Logan, East Ridge. Chic Scott, Trevor Jones, Don Chandler and I spent 23 days on Mount Logan. We reached the East Peak on June 20 after an alpine-style ascent of the ten-mile-long east ridge. Much time was spent in storms, including seven ou...
Chopicalqui—After a number of delays due to poor weather and awful snow conditions, John Barrett, Geoff Harrison, and I climbed the southwest ridge of Chopicalqui from Quebrada Ulta on July 23. On the same day, a French party completed a probable ...
Painted Wall, The Serpent. In mid-October, Kennan Harvey and I climbed an all-free variation to the Dragon route on the Painted Wall. We climbed in classic wall style, with the leader free climbing and the second following on jumars. A “true” free...
Fuller Buttes Area, East Face of Jackass Rocks. This face has many fine cracks visible from the road, but closer inspection shows the cracks tend to start 15 to 20 feet above the ground. In May Mark Blanchard, Conrad Van Bruggen, Fremont Bainbridg...
Gasherbrum II. It was reported that seven teams attempted Gasherbrum II this year, all by the Austrian Route. Three were successful. A group of non-Tibetans attached to the permits of the Samdruk-led expedition (see above), including Kryzysztof Wi...
Kanjiroba Himal. A British all-woman expedition under the leadership of Countess Dorothea Gravina climbed the two highest peaks in the Kanjiroba Himal. The higher (22,000 feet) was provisionally named Pinnacle Peak after the club to which all six ...
Peshastin Pinnacles, Butterbrickle Route on Martian Tower. The south chimney was climbed in April by J. Brottem and me. The route begins at the south notch, climbs across the slab a few feet, and then up to a belay with bolts in place. Climb into ...
Ama Dablam, North Ridge. Paddy Freaney, Peter McInally, Graham Elder, Rob Hall, Bob Murie and I walked to our 17,000-foot Base Camp, covering 180 miles in 24 days, with a side trip to the Everest Base Camp for acclimatization. Starting on the nort...
Langtang Lirung, Ascent and Tragedy. The Trieste expedition was composed of Bruno Toscan, leader, Bruno Crepaz, Mauro Contento, Mauro Petronio, Giuliano Ravagnan, Adriano Tavernaro and Dr. Luisa Mestroni. Unfortunately my husband and I found at th...