Eldred Valley, West Main Wall, Call of the Granite. Due west from Squamish, the Eldred Valley is the backyard of the small coastal mill town of Powell River. Large mountains, deep valleys, and inlets prevent direct road access to the peninsula, bu...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, NO HARD HATWyoming, TetonsLoren Sheffer (age unknown) was descending from an attempt on the Grand Teton via the Exum Ridge, when he slipped on snow just above the Spalding Falls area of Garnet Canyon. Sheffer wa...
Tierra del Fuego Climbing and Kayaking. From January to March Paul de Mengel and I explored Tierra del Fuego. Starting at Puerto Hambre, a roadhead just south of Punta Arenas, we kayaked across the Magellan Straits, through the Acualisman Channel ...
Bonney’s Guide: Jackson’s Hole and Grand Teton National Park, written and published by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine G. Bonney, 1309 American Investors Building, Houston 2, Texas, 1961. 144 pages, illustrated, maps. Price $1.95.The Bonneys, who rec...
Kongur Reconnaissance, Sinkiang (Xinjiang), Western China. Mike Ward, A1 Rouse and I flew to Urumchi, accompanied by our liaison officer, Liu Da Yi. After a visit to the Heavenly Lake in the Tien Shan Mountains, we left Urumchi on June 7 and flew ...
Karambar Glacier Area, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. One of the least-visited regions in the Karakoram is the northwestern part of the Batura Muztagh. After extensive investigation in Alpine and Himalayan journals, we decided on the Kara...
Middle Peak of Liberty Bell. On the Memorial Day week end in 1950, Dick Widrig, Wesley Grande and I trudged through snow over most of the 16 miles of the Early Winter Creek Trail to Washington Pass, which is a few miles N. of Lake Chelan in the Ca...
War Comes to the AlpsUrsula CorningON the 24th of August, 1939, the streets of Chamonix are as full as ever, but it is a strangely different crowd which surges up and down the way to the station. Gone are the familiar figures with sack and axe, ru...
The Peak Experience, by Carroll Seghers II. New York: Bobbs-Merrill,1979.Although The Peak Experience is informative in parts and easy reading, this is not the book I would recommend you give your sister, wife, girl friend or daughter who has neve...
Central Puscanturpa, Insumision. Spanish climber David Rodriquez Lopez opened a route, Insumision, on Central Puscanturpa (5442m), a beautiful mountain. The route ascends an oblique couloir that goes almost directly to the summit. The 450-meter ro...
Chacraraju Este, South Face Accident. Up the south face we went, first climbing a hanging glacier, up and around ice bulges, across a schrund and onto the nearly vertical main upper wall. The southern exposure and continual stormy weather meant in...
After acclimatizing on the Normal Route, on the summer solstice I scoped the 3,000m south face with intent to attempt a new route on the left side of the face, between the original French Route and the Romanian variation to the Slovenian Route. ...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURECalifornia, Starlight PeakOn September 15, 1987, Ed Wallacer and A1 Johnson were climbing the northwest ridge of Starlight Peak when they decided to retreat at 1430.Upon reaching the Thunderbolt/Starlight...
California, Tahquitz Roch. Sometime before noon on 9 May, John Guth (19) and Ronald White (20) began an ascent of a route called The Error (5.6) on the north side of Tahquitz Rock. After an initial false start at the base of the rock, they found t...
In early January 2012 Jose Bonacalza, Sasha Gal, Ezequiel Manoni, Pablo Pontoriero, and I left Bariloche with a four-day good weather window. Our objective was a new route on Cerro Trinidad. To be efficient we divided into two groups. While one te...
WEATHER, FALL ON SNOW, EXPOSURE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn February 16, 1989, a four-man Japanese expedition flew into the Kahiltna Basecamp to begin a winter ascent of the West Buttress. The group leader, Noboru Yamada (39), was climbing Mount McKi...
Aconcagua, Southeast Ridge. Mauricio Fernández and Carlos Dominguez of Mendoza reached the base of the south face of Aconcagua and camped at the Plaza Francia. After acclimatizing, they climbed to a gap at 5000 meters and descended east from the l...
On June 7, Belgian climber Joris Van Reeth of Borgerhout (27) was killed in a fall while climbing the Cassin Ridge. He was leading a highly technical section of the route known as the Japanese Couloir when his anchor appeared to fail and he fell...
Shivling’s East RidgeLight is right: A rapid alpine-style second ascent of a Garhwal testpiece by Mark RicheySwinging in space 7,000 feet above the Tapovan meadows, I reached down and touched my leg. It felt as if I had taken a full swing from a b...
Denbor Brakk, west face, Dancer in the Dark. In July Marcin Tomaszewski and I, both from Poland, arrived in the Nangma Valley. First we aimed for the west face of Amin Brakk. This wall harbours a couple of A5 routes and is said to be 1,600 meters ...