DENTAL-LACERATION AND BICUSPID FRACTUREAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 5th, RMI guide Brent Okita brought a 17-year-old client to the 14,200-foot medical tent to have a dental check. The prior day, the client was eating a frozen nouga...
Cordillera Sud Lipez, Overview. The Cordillera Sud Lípez lies to the east of the southern part of the Cordillera Occidental and runs down to the Bolivia-Chile-Argentina border. Major peaks include Cerro Lípez, Morurco (5681m), Uturuncu (6008m), an...
Southern Liverpool Land, coastal exploration, Raffles and Rathbone islands, various ascents. Simon Burke and I flew to Constable Pynt and helicoptered to Ittoqqortoormiut, arriving on August 8. In 2006 I circumnavigated Milne Land and left kayaks ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION, WEATHER, DECISION MAKINGAlaska, Mount HuntingtonTrapper Creek climber Johnny Soderstrom (26) was declared missing and presumed dead in an avalanche, which occurred on Tuesday, February 15th. Soderstrom was last seen alive...
Until recently The Big Hose (1,000', D+ 5.8 WI3, Jon Krakauer, solo, 1978) on the northeast face of South Howser Tower was the only ice route in the Bugaboos—a range renowned for its alpine rock climbing. After climbing this stellar shaft of ice i...
OCCURRENCE OF TWISTERS ON MOUNTAIN RIDGES1. ObservationsTwisters of great intensity were observed during an ascent of the Watzmann, a mountain in the northern limestone belt of the Alps, south of Berchtesgaden, Germany, on August 1st of this past ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers, with members Mike Burns, Karen Close, Steven Cox (American team leader), Don Goodman, Natala Goodman, Jim Tweedie and Howard Weaver, joined with The Himalayan Club to conduct the first Indian-American climbing e...
CANADAROPE AROUND LEG–STUMBLEBritish Columbia, Mount Robson National Park, Mount RobsonDuring the mid-day of July 12th, a team of three were climbing near the top of the Kain Face on Mount Robson. The climbing rope somehow wrapped itself around A....
WILLIAM FREDERICK BADÈ (1871-1936)With the passing of Dr. William Frederick Badè at his home in Berkeley, Calif., March 4th, 1936, the Club has lost one of its outstanding members. Dr. Badè had so many interests and accomplished so much in many fi...
Winter in the Karakoram. In February, Andrzej Zawada made a reconnaissance into the heart of the Karakoram. Accompanied by the Canadian Jacques Olek, he spent two weeks on the Baltoro Glacier, making meteorological observations. At 4000 meters, th...
RAYMOND T. ZILLMER 1887–1960Raymond T. Zillmer, prominent attorney and conservationist died on December 13, 1960. He was a graduate of the University of Wisconsin (A.B., 1910), where he also was granted law and doctor’s degrees. During 1912–14 he ...
Casiri, Cordillera Real, 1990. After being attacked twice by locals on the three-day hike from Achacachi to the southern base of Casiri, Jim Petroske and I camped below the icefall that tumbles down the southeast section of the glaciers that cover...
Austrian Caucasus Expedition, 1936. An Austrian party under Prof. Rudolf Schwarzgruber made a number of climbs in the central Caucasus around the Bezingï Glacier.Tikhtengen was climbed by the W. ridge on July 15th and descended by the E. ridge, a ...
DORRELL LOOFF 1911-1981Dorrell Looff, a member of the American Alpine Club for nineteen years, died on February 10, 1981. His father’s family helped build Coney Island and many amusement parks across the country. One of the brothers carved horses ...
Khan Sar and Sahan Sar, First Ascents. In August, a six-man international team visited an unnamed glacial system above the village of Bhort in the Ishkoman Valley region of northern Pakistan. The team consisted of Graham Rowbotham and Tom Gleeson ...
This very difficult climb was completed for the first time in 2½ days by Royal Robbins, Charles Pratt and Joe Fitschen.
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, RAPID ASCENT, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER Washington, Mount RainierOn July 5,1986, climbers Frank Amenta (24) and Philip Rosenthal (33) became disoriented in a white out and descended Willis Wall instead of ...
The Granite Towers of the Arrigetch, Brooks RangeJeanne BergenGranite towers and spires with clean, sweeping faces — on the order of the Bugaboos or Logan Mountains — are rare. Virgin granitic groups of this type are an even rarer phenomenon, a mo...
Savage Arena. Joe Tasker. St. Martin’s Press, New York, 1982. 270 pages, 52 black and white photographs, 8 sketch maps, 6 diagrams. $18.95.Climbing, more than most sports, seems to foster the autobiographical urge. At its most difficult, its viole...
Peak 5242m, First Ascent. A 16-member Indian expedition led by Pradeep Kr. Kar intended to attempt the virgin peak Panch Chuli III via the eastern approaches in May. They approached from Son Duktu village and through the Meola Glacier. However, co...