Satopanth. Three Indian expeditions climbed Satopanth (7075 meters, 23,212 feet) in the summer of 1992, all following the northwest ridge, the route pioneered by André Roch in 1947. The summit was reached on June 22 by leader Prasad S. Dhamal, Sur...
Gorichen II and Gorichen East. Our expedition hoped to climb Kangto (7090 meters, 23,262 feet) in order to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the founding of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. There was no ascent recorded of Kang...
Mt. Proboscis, Attempt. It was reported that Spaniards Eduardo Martinez, Iñaki Fernández and Juan Vallejo attempted a new route on Mt. Proboscis. The trio managed 350 meters in 15 days; the climbing to their high point was A3. (Desnivel 146)
Kedar Dome Ski Attempt; A Female Liaison Officer. I led a four-man party from the Alpine Ski Club, all of us over 50 except for our doctor. Our objective was a ski ascent, up and down, of Kedar Dome (6831 meters, 22,410 feet) and so we set out in ...
Tetons: (3) Mount Owen. On 24 August 1947 William Mc- Indoe, a park employee 20 years old, fell to a ledge within 40 yds. of the site of the Ramsland accident. This climber had left the valley after a dance the night before, against the advice of ...
Pickets And Dead Men: Seasons on Rainier. Bree Loewen. Mountaineers Books, 2009. 189 pages. Paperback. $16.95.After Bree Loewen graduated from college with a degree in philosophy at age 17, she spent four years as a climbing bum and ambulance jock...
The Mazamas. The many and varied activities of The Mazamas, headquartered in Portland, Oregon, are developed and coordinated by six committees. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Charlene Degener, selects climb leaders, schedules climbs, sets stan...
Ama Dablam. We climbed the 1961 first-ascent route. Our members were John Michaud, John Tuckey, Scott Johnson, Ken Morr, Ben Greene, Karen Simmonds, Joe Burleson, Ron Crotzer and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on September 16. We then fixed ...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
Menlungtse, north face attempt. In October 1999 I was the leader of a four-man U.S.- Canadian party that made the first attempt on the north face of Menlungtse. Our goal was a route at the eastern end of the north face, which we hoped would lead d...
At the moment of going to press we have received from the Alpine Club of Canada a copy of the letter of protest sent by them in connection with the altering of the name Castle Mtn. to “Mt. Eisenhower.” The American Alpine Club is in entire agreeme...
New routes in the Sawtooths. Though most of the principal peaks of the Sawtooths have been climbed, we have set ourselves the modest task of discovering the best and most enjoyable routes to the summits of those peaks that offer more than one appr...
Nanga Parbat, North Face, New Route. Since Herman Buhl climbed Nanga Parbat (8125 m) for the first time in 1953, only one party (Czechoslovakia, 1971) has succeeded via the original route. Five other routes have been established elsewhere on the m...
The Stump, Goldfinger; Mt. Barrill, Cobra Pillar speed ascent. An extended Alaska season gave me the opportunity to climb 14 routes on 13 peaks with four different partners. Chris McNamara and I managed to squeeze out four climbs in the Ruth Gorge...
Mount Watson and the Grand Plateau GlacierWalter Gove and Donald J. LiskaON June 5 our party of Mike Allen,Cindy Anderson, Larry Dauelsberg, Walt Gove, Don and Alice Liska and John Neal gathered at Channel Flying in Juneau to be flown by pilot Ken...
Half Dome Free ClimbedTodd SkinnerBACK IN THE SUMMER OF 1986, Paul Piana and I sat down with a map of North America and made a list of all the Big Walls—those over 2000 feet high—on the continent. The list was soon reduced to four walls that were ...
New Zealand Andes Expedition, 1960—Nevado CayeshR. Maurice Davis, New Zealand Alpine ClubA number of New Zealand expeditions have climbed in the Himalayas and in recent years transport has become available for exploration and climbing parties to v...
Nalumasortoq, New Route. It was reported that a Swiss party was believed to have climbed a direct route on the right-hand pillar of Nalumasortoq, cutting through the left-facing diagonal comer system attempted in 1996 by a British team and complet...
Various activity. Jen Olson (Canmore, Alberta) and I (Vancouver, B.C.) arrived in Talkeetna on May 23. That same day Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi flew us to the Cul-de-Sac Glacier in the heart of the Kichatna Spires. The weather gods were w...
Cerro Sierra Bella, South Face, Cerro de Orientación, South Face and Other Peaks. Organized by the Club Alemán Andino, Santiago, our 11-man expedition climbed eleven peaks in the Río Colorado region, two of them 6000ers., between February 1 and 24...