Lapche Kang, Attempt, Previously Unreported. The Kyoto Alpine League team, led by Kazunari Aihara and comprised of six members, made an attempt on the northeast ridge of Lapche Kang (7100m) in September-October, 1998, but abandoned the attempt 160...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Our expedition to Chau Chau Kang Nilda (also known as Guan Nelda) had me as leader and Mrs. Bani Bose as deputy. From Kaza we proceeded to Lanza and pitched Base Camp on August 31 at 17,410 feet. We climbed scree to Camp I at...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. In 1982 the DMC continued to offer comprehensive rock-climbing classes to Dartmouth College students as well as other interested parties. In addition a new winter mountaineering/ice-climbing school was organized and ...
Baruntse Ascent and Attempt. There were two expeditions on the southeast ridge of Baruntse in the autumn. Six French climbers and two Swiss led by Fran§oise Aubert were successful. Frenchman Bernard Hollande and Swiss Patrice Kohli got to the summ...
Batura Attempt. A three-man German expedition led by Volker Stallbohm failed to climb Batura. Details are not yet known.
Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. The famous Polish woman climber, Wanda Rutkiewicz, was last seen shortly after eight P.M. on May 12. On May 10, she and Mexican Carlos Carsolio, leader of a team of four Mexicans and two Poles, were climbing betwe...
Dhaulagiri. The Argentines made a second attempt on Dhaulagiri, (26,795 feet.) Under the leadership of Lt. Col. Emiliano Huerta were Mario Bertone, Sergeant Felipe Godoy (who was on the first expedition), Sergeant Humberto Vassalla, Vicente Cichit...
Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Schell Route Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was made up of Koji Matsui, Osamu Nakajima, Masatoshi Todaka, Kanichi Otani, Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kuria, Hideto Fujii, Yasuki Narita and me as leader. On July 21, we left Ta...
FALL ON ROCK AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—Ontario, Bon Echo Park. Richard Lamb (16), who had climbed for 3 years, was making a first ascent solo at 1230 hours on August 27, 1976. He was using a Gibbs ascender as a self-belayer, which was attached to h...
Antarctic Rescue. In the Antarctic winter night of July 1947, “Pete” Peterson and I found ourselves 20 miles from base without adequate shelter or sufficient food. The circumstances leading up to this predicament would make a long story in themsel...
Nanga Parbat. Probably the most talked about mountaineering expedition this past summer was the German attempt on Nanga Parbat, which ended so disastrously. The news last June, informing us that practically the entire party had been wiped out by a...
Every Man for Himself?David BreashearsOVER THE PAST SEVERAL YEARS we have witnessed an unprecedented number of climbers and expeditions active on the highest peaks of the world. Through no fault of their own or because of errors of judgement, thes...
Huandoy Norte, Southeast Face, Attempt. Matej Meglic and Primoz Soklic climbed a new route on the southeast face of Huandoy Norte (6395 m), Meso (900 meters, 85°) They reached the ridge 70 meters below summit and descended without topping out.Miha...
Tenzing: Hero of Everest. Ed Douglas. Washington D.C.: National Geographic Press, 2003. 304 pages. Hardcover, $25.00; Paperback, $15.00.I still buy plenty of climbing books, but I can rarely bring myself to read them. I review the picture captions...
1981-Polish-American Climbing Exchange Program. In late March Tom Hargis and I were told that we had been chosen as the AAC representatives in the climbers’ exchange with Poland in the late summer. After four months of uncertainty, watching the he...
Washington, Cascades, LaBohn Gap—About noon on August 1, Jack Slehofer (16) and William Johnson (18) were traveling from South to North over LaBohn Gap in the Washington Cascades. They were fishermen, headed for a string of lakes in Necklace Valle...
Nanga Parbat, 1932Elizabeth KnowltonON April 28, 1932, the German American Himalayan Expedition sailed from Genoa for India to attempt the ascent of Nanga Parbat.1Nanga Parbat is the seventh highest mountain in the world, so that if the expedition...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyPaul Whippo (27) and Doug Meerdinkt (26) were descending from the top of Crack Center Route (YDS II, 5.6 or 5.7) at 6 p.m. on October 2. They had been unable to find an existing rappel...
HANDHOLD CAME OFF—FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INATTENTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn March 2, Hayner Brooks (44) was climbing with Ken Miller on the route Three's Company (I, 5.7), pitches o...
Kyashar, southwest face, attempt. From October 11 to 15 Jan Doudlebsky and Marek Holecek attempted the first ascent of the southwest face of Kyashar (a.k.a. Peak 43; 6,770m). This peak had its only official ascent in October 2003, by a multination...