Licancabur and Llulloillaco. From San Pedro de Atacama, I walked some 43 kilometers to the base of Licancabur (5921 meters, 19,424 feet) and I ascended to the summit on May 7. A week later from Socompa railroad station, I hiked to place a camp at ...
Watkins Mountains, Various Ascents. Just after midnight on June 16-17, a Twin Otter skiplane of Air Iceland lifted off from Isafjordur, Iceland, to take a group of five Britons—Scott Umpleby (leader), Dr. Jon Dallimore, Gordon Downs, Sandy Gregson...
Illimani Traverse, Pomarata, Sajama. Our Regensburg expedition was composed of Ria Putz, Heidi Hildebrandt, Roman Schönbuchner and me as leader. We were in the field from July 29 to September 15. It took four days for my wife Ria, Heidi Hildebrand...
Cerro Altar. The Italians Marino Tremonti, Ferdinando Gaspard and Cloudio Zardini made the first ascent of the Cerro Altar (17,451 feet) up its south side. It was a difficult ascent. They also ascended Chimborazo.Pietro Meciani, Club Alpino Italiano
Kanchenjunga, Normal Route. Our expedition was composed of Franco Garda, climbing leader, Lelio Granier, Oscar Tayola, Riccardo Borney, Abele Blanc, Giuliano Sciandra, Oreste and Arturo Squinobal, Pietro Ferraris, Vittorio Mangili, Sergio Mezzanza...
Das Bar Zorn and Gainthir Chish, Hindu Raj. The expedition of the Kapfenberg Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) was led by Helmut Linzbichler and composed of Gamrerith, Scherbichler and Trebsche. On August 8 Gamerith and Trebsche made the f...
Todd Richard Skinner 1957-2006Todd is gone, fallen from life. My greatest friend, my chosen brother, a part of my heart and world for 30 years. We have lost a contagious source of energy, which fueled the lives and dreams of countless people.Todd ...
Tetons, Wyoming: (1) Nez Perce. On 5 July 1948 Winthrop Akin and Ben Pedrick, members of the Kachina Mountain Club, of Phoenix, Arizona, climbed Nez Perce from Jenny Lake by the usual route (west ridge and north face). They reached the summit at 1...
Little Tirich Mir Attempt, Owir VII. The Alpine Club of Canada expedition was composed of Murray Foubister, Dr. James Prahl, Jan Smith and me as leader; our liaison officer was Captain Abbas Raza. We left the town of Chitral on September 2 and tra...
hHainablak, Ascent. Hainablak is the prominent granite aiguille named by Ardito Desio in 1929 during his exploratory reconnaissance up the Baltoro Glacier. The tower, which can be seen in in this journal on page 25 and in AAJ 1997 on page 322 behi...
Little Snowdome, North Face, Columbia Icefields. Ward Robinson and I climbed an interesting route in April on the north face of Little Snowdome. It can be seen on the approach to “Slipstream.” The face is about 2500 feet high. We climbed the centr...
Moses, Canyonlands National Park. One of the last great desert towers, this one discreetly hidden in remote Taylor Canyon east of the Green River, was climbed October 26. Lin Ottinger, Moab tour guide, had long known of it under the name “Moses,” ...
Alaska Alpine Club. The 1961 climbing season began with a January attempt on still unclimbed McGinnis Peak in the eastern Alaska Range. In March, eleven climbers made the first ascent of Old Snowy in the Castner Glacier area of the Alaska Range. U...
Mt. Western Doppah, Northeast Face/Northeast Ridge. From July 21-27, a team from the Moscow mountain club Strannik (“pilgrim”) comprised of V. Zadokhin, leader; V. Doolnev, M. Borschev, V. Polivko, A. Filipov and P. Yatsenko established a new rout...
Pumahuacanca and other peaks. I met Alistair McKeith, a Scottish climber, by chance in Huaraz. Hoping to make the first ascent of Pumahuacanca (“weeping puma” in Quechua), we left the road at Olleros on June 19 and followed the ancient trade route...
Jurau, West Face. A British expedition had hoped to climb the previously unascended west face of Siulá Chico but failed because of bad weather and health problems. However, Brian Barker and Jonathan Preston did complete a new route on the difficul...
1951-651966GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta14616213British Columbia18832223Yukon Territory101000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic–North722493707South323000...
Mount Everest Reconnaissance from the North, 1978. Fifteen Iranian and twenty Chinese climbers made a reconnaissance of the North Col route on Mount Everest in 1978. They brought 185 tons of materials and were supported by several hundred. Base Ca...
Passu Peak Attempt. Our expedition consisted of Mamoru Shimizu, Norihide Taniuchi, Makihiro Wakao, Kazuhisa Ikegami, Hitoshi Mitsuishi, Kanichi Ichikawa and me as leader. We placed Base Camp at 13,300 feet on May 22 after a three-day approach from...
Basaseachic Waterfall, Soy Caliente. Morgan Black, Aidan Oloman, and Sean Easton established Soy Caliente (5.11, Al, 9 pitches) ground-up over two weeks in November and December. Forty 3/8-inch bolts and 20 rivets were placed. Thirty meters were A...