Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Soral Este, Soral Oeste, Salluyo and Chaupi Orco, Cordillera Apolobamba

Soral Este, Soral Oeste, Salluyo and Chaupi Orco, Cordillera Apolbamba. Italians Ostilio Campese, leader, Nico Bidese, Bortolo Fontana, Paolo Conte, Giancarlo Contalbrigo and Giuseppe Pierantoni traveled in June from La Paz to Peluchuco and thence...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Ofjord Region, Tsavagattaq, South Ridge, and Other Activity

Tsavagattaq, South Ridge, and Other Activity. It was reported that Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Magnar Osnes and Odd Roar Wiik (Norway) with Micke Sundberg (Sweden) visited the Ofjord region near the head of Scoresby Sound Fjord south of the Staunings A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal

Churen Himal. A Japanese expedition to Churen Himal (24,184 feet) was abandoned on April 25 due to heavy snowfalls. The highest point reached was 19,350 feet, just below where Camp IV was to have been established.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real

Cordillera Real. Andreas Anke, Peter Brunner and I made the following climbs in the Cordillera Real: Jacha Pata (5424 meters or 17,795 feet) via east face and P 5480 (17,979 feet) via southeast face both on May 30; P 5430 (17,815 feet) and Jishka ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Arctic, Italian East Greenland Expedition

Italian East Greenland Expedition. During the summer an Italian expedition, led by Guido Monzino of Milan, visited the Staunings Alps on the east coast of Greenland. The team, composed mostly of Alpine guides of Valtournanche, flew from Iceland to...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanchenjunga

Kanchenjunga. Reinhold Messner, Friedl Mutschlechner and Sherpa Ang Dorje reached the summit of Kanchenjunga on May 6 without the use of artificial oxygen. They climbed the north face and north ridge, partially on the Japanese route, partially new...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nadir Shah

Nadir Shah. Leopold Berger and Franz Graf of the expedition of the Reichenstein Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) reached the summit of Nadir Shah (22,356 feet), which had previously been climbed.Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub


In Memoriam AAJ
John Cameron Oberlin 1914-2006

John Cameron Oberlin 1914-2006John Cameron Oberlin, President of the American Alpine Club from 1956 to 1958, represented the AAC at the centenary of the Alpine Club in London. He strongly supported the international aspects of mountaineering. He w...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (4) Longs Peak

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (4) Longs Peak. On 17 July 1948 B. B. Van Diver (21) and William Eubank (20) were attempting to climb the east face of Longs Peak by the Stettner Ledges. At some spot near the top of the ledges, Van Diver, who had take...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir, Southeast Ridge of East Peak Attempt

Tirich Mir, Southeast Ridge of East Peak Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Marian Bala, Wieslaw Burzynski, Dr. Jerzy Friediger, Marek Kalmus, Jacek Poreba, Wieslaw Stefanski and me as leader. Our objective had been the Hispar Mustagh of the K...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Central Karakoram, Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools

Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools. Mark Synnott and Jared Ogden established a new route on the east face of Shipton Spire (5852m) called Ship of Fools (VII 5.11 A2+ WI6), spending 20 nights on the wall and summitting on August 6. A full account of Synn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Coast Range, Mount Waddington Area, New Routes

Mount Waddington Area, New Routes. Between July 20 and August 2, six of us from Seattle camped at the Combatant-Waddington col, climbing four new routes. On our first day, Dan Cauthorn and Steve Mascioli climbed the central buttress of Combatant (...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Moses, Canyonlands National Park

Kerckhoff Dome. Near Shaver Lake, a year-round road passes within a mile of little-known Kerckhoff Dome. Huge penstocks bring energy to the Big Creek power station and the tramway used in their construction provides a quick and brush-free access. ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section met four times in 1961. On January 20, the following new officers were elected: Lewis Clark, chairman; Jules Eichorn, vice-chairman; William Hooker, secretary-treasurer. Following the busine...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Russia, Caucasus, Kiukiurtliu, Northwest Face, Lukashvilly Route

Our special thanks to Vladimir Kopylov (http://mountains.tos.ru) of the Russian Mountaineering Federation for his invaluable help on this section.Kiukiurtliu, Northwest Face, Lukashvilly Route. From August 21-27, a team of the Moscow Mountaineerin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Attempt on Chopicalqui

Attempt on Chopicalqui. Janine Carrette and I were joined in Huaraz by the Peruvian Alcides Ames for an attempt on Chopicalqui. We climbed to Base Camp at the end of the moraine at the foot of the Chopicalqui Glacier on August 5. On the 9th from C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru?Cordillera Blanca, P 5697

P 5697. In July, Jostein Maardalen and I nearly completed the first ascent of P 5697 (18,691 feet) via the south ridge. The peak lies a kilometer south of Shaqsha. The climb was of nine rope-lengths on 45° to 60° snow and ice. The last 20 meters o...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of Accidents Reported USA–CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA–CAN.InjuredUSA–CAN.KilledUSA–CAN195114–21–10–3–195229–32–17–13–195324–27–14–12–195431–41–31–8–195534–39–29–13–195646–71–51–18–19...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China—Tibet, Shisha Pangma Reconnaissance

Shisha Pangma Reconnaissance. At the end of May Manfred Abelein, Fritz Zintl and I were in China and Tibet to prepare our joint expedition. We had to travel by jeep over 500 miles from Lhasa to the Shisha Pangma Base Camp to make plans.Günter Stur...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hachindar Chhish, East Face

Hachindar Chhish, East Face. The march-in with 110 porters to the foot of Hachindar Chhish from Aliabad in Hunza took us four days. On May 30 we established Base Camp on the Muchichul Glacier at 12,000 feet. We used no high-altitude porters. Our r...