Mt. Humphreys. During the past summer an ascent of Mt. Humphreys, 13,972 ft., loftiest mountain in the Sierra Nevada north of the Palisades, was made from the east up a great cleaver like ridge, involving an excellent rock climb of several thousan...
K7 Alpine StyleThe Karakoram Summer continues with a rapid second ascent of a 20~year~old route that originally took 40 days to climb, Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.Doug ChabotWe were climbing even lighter than we intended. I reached for a cam and re...
Peak 6,184m; Trident Peak. We arrived in Delhi during mid- September and after three days’ coach travel reached the village of Darcha on the well-used Manali Leh military road. Three short days of trekking along the Jankar Nala, northwest of Darch...
This is the eleventh annual report of the reported mountaineering accidents that occurred in the United States and Alaska during 1957. Six additional accidents that had occurred during 1956 were reported and the statistics for 1956 have therefore ...
WEATHER, PROBABLY HYPOTHERMIA, combined with SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, the “Free at Last” expedition discovered three deceased climbers—Thomas Downey (52), Scott Hall (34), and Jimmy Hinkhouse (52)—at Wind...
NIELS-HENRIK LAPAIN ANDERSEN 1947-1973The dream of Niels Andersen to climb the major north faces of the Alps was tragically shattered on the Matterhorn when he and Warren Bleser fell descending the Hörnli Ridge in storm. Last seen on the north fac...
Summary of Trango Ascents. Eight routes have been climbed on the Trango Nameless Tower (6239 meters, 20,470 feet). There have been 13 ascents to the summit. 1. June 8, 1976, Britons Anthoine, Boysen, Brown, Howells, southwest face (new). 2. June 1...
Canada: Before moving to an overall view of the past year's Canadian accidents, there are two items of business I would like to mention. The first is the departure of Orvel Miskiw as Canadian editor. Orvel served as ANAM’s Canadian correspondent f...
Cold Sweat on MakaluPierre Beghin, Groupe de Haute MontagneFOR HALF AN HOUR our group had been clustered about the radio at our 4900-meter Base Camp at the foot of Makalu. Guy Chaumerueil, leaning over the radio-telephone, was about to explain to ...
“Lotos Peak,”first ascent. Michal Krol, a young mountaineer from southern Poland, and I set off in late August for a climbing trip to the Miyar Valley. Relatively few expeditions have climbed in this region, one of the first being an Italian team ...
Mike died in the mountains and is buried by the snows. It seems so sadly appropriate, doing what he loved, ending there. The odd thing is that he had stood on a glorious summit shortly beforehand, something he hadn’t done for 22 years. A co...
Canyonlands, Zeus, Sisyphus. In late October, Chip Chace and I free-climbed Zeus, the 300-foot sister spire of Moses. The route follows an old aid line on the southeast side, involving mostly thin cracks. Three 5.11 sections are encountered, well ...
Ocshapalca, South Face. It was reported that the French team of Jean Noel Roux, Jean Emanuel Sicart and Christophe Vigne climbed the 500-meter south face of Ocshapalca directly to the West Top on August 17, 1995, encountering sections of 80- to 90...
La Columna. The Juncal massif, rising at the sources of the Aconcagua river, has several summits over 19,000 feet. Its lowest, the northwest peak, 5615 meters or 18,420 feet, had remained unclimbed. Using the North Juncal Glacier G. Cassasa, D. De...
Wildwood Wisdom, by Ellsworth Jaeger. 8vo., xix + 491 pages, with 193 illustrations from drawings. New York, The Macmillan Co., 1945. Price $2.95.The author, who is Curator of Education at the Buffalo Museum of Science, has prepared a remarkably c...
Mount Mitchell, Northwest Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Molly Higgins and I made this climb, starting on the far right side of the northwest face. It is easily identified by a slab that leads to a straight one-inch crack in a right...
Charm School Boutique, repeat. Between The Journey Home and The Cruise on North Chasm View Wall, Jeff Achey found an improbable line called Charm School Boutique (5.12 A2+; AAJ 2004, pp. 180-181). In May, Steve Monks and I free-climbed it, with th...
Mounts Logan, Steele, Wood, Augusta and Upton, Icefield Ranges. During the 1987 climbing season there were 14 groups that climbed in the Icefield Ranges, as well as five that skied. Most of the expeditions were on Mount Logan. Canadians Steve Lang...
Shipton Spire, East Face. Charles Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Collum, and I arrived in Islamabad the first week of June. Our good friend, Gullam Rasoul, traveled for several days from his home village of Hushe to meet us and help us go through the absu...
This is the nineteenth report of the Safety Committee and the sixth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. A number of accidents that had not been previously reported or included in the statistics have come to the attention of the Committe...