Alpinisme Hivernal, by Marcel Kurz. Payot, Paris, Second printing, 1928. F. 50.The reprinting of this justly famous work is a propitious moment to bring it to the attention of our readers. One of the few books written in French on winter mountaine...
A JET. YES, I was sure it was a jet. It was only slightly different, but uniquely so, from the roar of avalanches thundering down everywhere around us. I’d only recently seen huge tongues of boiling snow flickering out from the base of the wal...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressClaude Ratté was a member of the Quebecoise 2008 Expedition, which consisted of two party members out of Quebec. Richard Cadorette, the second team member, had left the expedition ap...
Antarctic InterludeWilliam R. LatadyON 19 February 1948 the U. S. Navy icebreakers Burton Island and Adisto plowed through the three feet of ice that gripped the wooden tug Port of Beaumont. The tug had been locked in the ice for a year; and its c...
Simian Climbing Club. The 1966–1967 school year was a busy one for the University of Illinois Simians. More than 100 members received club instruction in rock climbing, while attendance at outings to Portland Arch in Indiana and Devils Lake, Wisco...
Aconcagua (6,962m), 2007-2008 season overview. This season 7,658 climbers and trekkers arrived at the provincial park, 345 more than last season (visitation grows yearly by about 5–10%). Of these, 4,548 had a climbing permit, 1,400 succeeded (abou...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, The Grand TraverseOn July 19 about 1030,1 received a call from Fred of Butte, Montana. Fred voiced concern for a friend and climbing partner of his, Dwight Bishop (49), wh...
Our trip had an adventurous spirit, partly because we are 19- and 20-year-old geology students with a lot of time and little money And Norway is one of the last places in Europe where you can enjoy true adventure. For us, during our last year at h...
December 17, 1954.Dear Sir:Ever since Mt. Everest was determined to be the highest known point on the earth’s surface, its elevation, as published by responsible and irresponsible sources, has fluctuated alarmingly from the figure computed by the ...
Ukrainians Igor Chaplinsky, Michel Formin, and Vitali Todorenko climbed directly up the famous south pillar of Ushba, adding 130m of possibly new ground on the steep central section. The center of the pillar was climbed to two-thirds height in 1...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. Frenchman Philippe Berger and a companion tried to climb Annapurna Dakshin by its southwest ridge. They reached 5750 meters (18,865 feet) on May 13 but could not go higher.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK – SCRAMBLING WITH FULL PACK, WEATHER and FALL OFF LOG – STREAM CROSSINGWashington, North Cascades National Perk, Inspiration TraverseOn July 26, Cathleen (50) and Bob Terczak (50’s) were on day four of an alpine traverse across the so...
Carstensz Pyramid, Irian Jaya (New Guinea). This is the highest peak (5030 meters, 16,503 feet or 4884 meters, 15,023 feet) in Australasia. We pursued it as a part of Pat Morrow’s successful quest to climb the highest mountain on all seven contine...
Two Southern Peaks of New ZealandKate GardinerWHEN winter winds are sweeping through the leafless trees of New Jersey and the Canadian Rockies are again shrouded in snow, a new summer has begun on the other side of the world and the foothills of t...
Flakstadoy Island, Stortinden, Slovakiaruta. Miro Mrava and Brano Turcek, two climbers from the Slovak Mountaineering Union, JAMES, spent two weeks in northern Norway from August 2 to 17. On the 10th they made a new route on Stortinden, an 866m pe...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount ShuksanOn July 7, Duane Morrison (34) set out with eleven other climbers of the Seattle Mountaineers to climb Mount Shuksan in the North Cascades National Park. The route was the Sulfid...
Cayesh from the EastMark RicheyIn THE SOUTHERN REGION of the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, a razor-edged sword of a mountain, Nevado Cayesh, slices boldly into the Andean sky.Cayesh had been climbed only once before to its summit of 18,770 feet. Many...
STUCK RAPPEL ROPE, FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - BOOTS Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Bihedral WallBeth M. Davis (52) fell while trying to retrieve a stuck rappel rope after climbing in Boulder Canyon on October 31. Davis and her partner were ra...
Mountain Man, the Story of Belmore Browne. Robert H. Bates. Amwell Press, Clinton, N.J., 1989. 470 pages. 33 color paintings, over 100 black-and-white reproductions of original art, 22-page photographic insert. $47.50.The title goes on to read, “H...
Alaska Range Traverse. Kevin Armstrong, John Burcham, Jeffrey Ottmers, and Doug Woody began the first continuous foot traverse* of the Alaska Range just south of Tok, Alaska on May 20. They were prepared for an arduous 76-day journey along the spi...