California, San Gabriel Mountains, Cucamonga Peak—Dennis Langford (16), Kirk Muscat (17), and Steve Brimhoff (17), of Ontario, California, hiked up Cucamonga Canyon, west of Cucamonga Peak, San Gabriel Mountain, California, early in the week betwe...
Left Twin Brother, Northwest Face, The Promised Land, Previously Unreported. The large, top-to-bottom, crescent-shaped, left-facing dihedral system on the Left Twin Brother’s northwest face marks The Promised Land (VI 5.10 A3, 13 pitches). First a...
FALL ON SNOW AND ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATColorado, Longs PeakOn September 16, Brant Kauth called the dispatch office from Longs Ranger Station and reported that his climbing partner, Harvy Schneider (22) had been involved in a climbing a...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn October 11, Madrone Coopwood (24) slid 200 feet on Lambs Slide at Longs Peak. Coopwood struck the rocks at the base of th...
Mount Bertha, Northeast Ridge. On July 14 Kevin Haberl, Peter Mair, Bruce Blackwell and I reached the summit of Mount Bertha (3110 meters, 10,204 feet) via its northeast ridge. The lightweight expedition was entirely self-supported from kayaks. Ou...
Montana, Ravalli County. In mid-June, Thomas Peterson (15) and Gene Saycuich (23) were climbing in a mountain range in Ravalli County in pursuit of pictures and game. They had covered considerable territory and when they decided to return they too...
Shivling, West Ridge, Various Ascents. It was reported that two teams were successful on Shivling’s west ridge: a four-man German team led by Walter Haderadorfer, on August 22 and 23, in two different groups; and a nine-member Korean team led by M...
DENALI NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE 1985 MOUNTAINEERING SUMMARYMount McKinleyExpeditionsClimbersSuccessful ClimbersWest Buttress104311153West Buttress (Guided)25200116Muldrow Glacier6159Muldrow Glacier (Guided)22619West Rib14355West Rib (Guided)2131...
Mt. Stuart, Complete North Ridge, first winter ascent. Four bluebird days and stellar conditions in February 2005 allowed Colin Haley (20) and me (42) to finally climb Mt. Stuart’s Complete North Ridge in winter. It was my 7th attempt in 17 years ...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Marmot BasinOn February 22, 1982, at about 12:15 p.m., five downhill skiers traversed to the Sherpa Run just outside the boundary of the Marmot Basin ski area, and just above timberline. As they arrived, they tri...
Dragontail Peak, Dragonscar. Blessed with easy fall access to the Stuart Range, Jens Holsten and I managed a new route on the northwest face of Dragontail Peak on September 6. Starting to the west of the Boving Route, on the opposite end of the br...
Catalogue of the Himalayan Literature, Third Edition. Edited by Yoshimi Yakushi. Hakusuigha Publishing Co., Ltd., Tokyo, 1994. 1320 pages. ¥55,000 (about $550.00).Comment: The long-awaited third edition of Yakushi’s catalogue has 7100 entries in t...
Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, Ascents and Tragedy. In the autumn, V. Bachkirov (leader), B. Sedoussov, N. Zakharov, E. Vinogradski, V. Pershin, G. Tortladze, B. Mednik, A. Sedov, A. Klimin, A. Paskhin, and A. Kovalchuk attempted Cho Oyu’s normal route...
Southern Patagonian Icecap, North-South Traverse. Italian Giuliano Giongo made a solo traverse of the Southern Patagonian Icecap (Hielo Continental) from north to south, a distance of some 400 kilometers. He started on July 21 at Río Pascua and wo...
Escudo, Southwest Face, First Winter Ascent. On August 7-8, Italians Marco Balla Longa, Marco Birolin, and Mario Cumis climbed the Southwest Face of Escudo in the Valle del Silencio. It was the first winter ascent of this route.Hernan Jofre, Ameri...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) North Face. Erik Decamp, François Marsigny, Spaniard Juan Tomás and I arrived at Base Camp on September 23. Since Eric was coming from Mustagh Ata and I from Everest, we two were well acclimatized. We first had planned to climb...
During the summer of 2005 I led an exploratory trekking trip to the Arabetoppe region of southeast Milne Land. From July 22 to August 5,2006 I was back, leading another trekking group to the western end of this large island, deep inside Scoresby S...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEDColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, CalypsoOn September 5, a climber (44) who was the third man on the rope started up the first pitch on Calypso when he fell, causing him to pendulum and thus hi...
Middle Palisade, “Smoke Blanchard Memorial Route.” On July 10, Steve Porcella and I climbed a new route on the west side of Middle Palisade. In the center of the face is a steep buttress, easily recognized by the two deep gullies on either side. W...
TABLE II1951-661967GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta16719111British Columbia181035111Yukon Territory111102Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — North78241018...