Huascarán, Southwest Ridge. Our party included Thomas Bowen, Stu During, Richard Hildner, Richard “Munch” Cussler and me. Our route was the southwest ridge of Huascarán to the summit of the south spur at 21,031 feet. We all reached this summit on ...
In August, Christopher Townsend (27), an experienced climber from Cambridge, Massachusetts, took a 20-foot fall that left him hanging unconscious on his rope for about two minutes. He walked out of the hospital later in the day “courtesy of his he...
Gyala Peri. In 1985 the Himalayan Association of Japan sent two men to reconnoiter Gyala Peri, which lies just north of the great bend of the Yalu-Tsangpo (Brahmaputra). In 1986 an expedition of six returned with Kazuo Tobita as their leader. The ...
Spider Rock. In March 1956 Mark Powell, Don Wilson and Jerry Gallwas, all Sierra Club members, made the first ascent of Spider Rock, an 800-foot sandstone spire in the northeastern corner of Arizona in the Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Altho...
Namcha Barwa and Nai Peng. Namcha Barwa (7782 meters, 25,531 feet) lies at the eastern tip of the Himalaya entirely in the People’s Republic of China at 29° 37' 51" N, 95°03'31" E. The meaning of the name is “Stones which fell from the Heavens.” T...
Pingora, Northeast Face, Wind River Range. On August 28, Fred Beckey, Franziska Schawalder Garrett and I climbed three long new pitches on the northeast face of Pingora about 150 feet to the right (west) of the classic Daley-Yensan route. After mu...
Wyoming, Grand Tetons, Symmetry Spire. On 26 July Michael Feldman (33) and Lydia Sims (15) decided to leave the north snow couloir on Symmetry Spire due to their limited experience on snow. Sims led the first pitch on the rock until it became too ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, CUT ROPE WITH KNIFE- PANIC, INADEQUATE EXPERIENCEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, North’s CliffsOn May 11, 1991, at 1530, an accident occurred while the Grand County Search and Rescue Team was practicing at A...
Changtse, Northeast Ridge Attempt. We arrived at Everest Base Camp after a five-day motorcade adventure from Lhasa. Initially blessed with good weather, we were able to establish Camp I and Advance Base at 18,000 and 20,000 feet on September 13 an...
Ribbon Falls Amphitheater, Hole in the Head. Rick Carlton Studley III and I climbed a 1,000-foot variation to the route Hole in the Sky located in Ribbon Falls Amphitheater this September. The variation started out on Reason Beyond Insanity and he...
RAPPEL FAILURE—Alaska, Alaska Range, Mt. Denali. On 27 May 1974, a party of eight was descending after a successful climb up the Cassin Route on the south face of Mt. Denali. On the final pitch down to the head of the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltn...
Gasherbrum II Attempt by Andorrans. The first Andorran expedition to the mountains of Asia had five Andorrans: Gerard Olm, leader, Gerard Montestruc, Nadia Alex, Jaume Espunyes and Oriol Riba; and five Spaniards resident in Andorra: Dr. Xabier Rov...
TIMOTHY IFOR MORGAN LEWIS1944-1984Tim Lewis, editor of Mountain from 1978 to 1984, died of cancer on August 23. He changed the magazine’s international scope and style to match a rapidly evolving climbing world and changing tastes.He was bom in Ab...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On September 5, Mr. David Fredenburg (25) was struck in the face by bounding rock at 1:30 a.m. while climbing from upper Cowlitz Glacier onto Cowlitz Cleaver below Camp Misery. Rock was dislodged by fellow cli...
Baker Rock, West Virginia. On the slopes of Elkhorn Ridge, a few miles E. of Petersburg, W. Va., erosion has exposed a remarkable formation of cliffs and pinnacles, locally known as Baker Rock. This quartzite expanse for many years excited the cur...
Winterland Tirol. By Robert Löbl. Trilingual text by Heinrich Kher. 80 illustrations by Viktor Herzner. Innsbruck: Tiroler Graphik, 1956. Price 80 Sch.Uniform with the writer’s "Tirol," "Karwendel," and "Kolomiten," we are carried in this book to ...
High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7,000 Metre Peaks. Jill Neate. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989. 213 pages, 140 photographs, 79 in color, 57 maps, and end papers. $46.00.This extremely valuable resource book names 446 peaks between the hei...
Trapecio, South Face. It was reported that in 1997, Francois Baroux, Frédéric Bréhé, Pierre Plaze and Christophe Vigne climbed a line on the south face of Trapecio (5653m) that followed the prominent twisting couloir to the left of the Lowe Route ...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR—ANCHOR KNOT FAILEDUtah, Wasatch Mountains, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 17, Harmer Kirt fell while rappelling at Storm Mountain in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Kirt fell 15 to 20 feet and injured his ankle and wrist. Mr. Kirt ...
Maparaju, 1980. New Zealanders Tony Teeling and Ross Ogden climbed Maparaju (5326 meters, 17,474 feet) by the first-ascent route, the southwest face, in 1980.