INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER—California, Yose- mite Valley. Randall Iwasiuk (21) and Chris Robbins (22) were climbing the South Face Column on February 19. They ended the day on the third pitch. By the end of the day on February 20, they made...
Perlilla, Cordillera Blanca and Yerupajá, Cordillera Huayhuash. The Shibaura University of Engineering expendition was led by Ko Kato and composed also of Yukio Ohe, Takashi Suzuki, Motoaki Ishinabe, Akira Kurihara, Tokeo Umehara and Hiromichi Miy...
Fisher Towers, Various Ascents. It was reported that Crusher Bartlett and Dave Levine climbed Beaking in Tongues, a seven-pitch route on the west face of the Oracle that was rated “somewhere between A2+ and A4” and used no bolts. On the south face...
Anyemaqen. Japanese climbers from Yamanashi Prefecture led by Masahiro Saegusa climbed Anyemaqen (6282 meters, 20,610 feet). They established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 4710, 5060 and 5500 meters on July 29, 30 and August 4. On August 7, Mino...
Shara Shuwa, First Ascent. A Japanese expedition led by Prof. Masato Oki reached the summit (6236 meters) on August 16-17. This peak lies in southeast Ladakh, overlooking Tso Moriri lake. It is the northernmost point on the Mentok Ridge rising beh...
Staircase Arête, Mount Moran. First ascent on August 28, 1959 by Dave Dornan and Al Read. We two first tried this fine ridge in 1957 after noticing it from the South Buttress route. It is located between the south ridge of Drizzlepuss and the wate...
Jaonli Peak, Garhwal. An expedition of Indian schoolboys and two schoolmasters, led by Hari Dang of the Doon School, attempted 21,760- foot Jaonli Peak in the Uttarkashi district of Garhwal. They were stopped at 19,300 feet by bad weather.
Nuptse, Northwest Peak. Although the seven-man-and-a-woman Japanese expedition did not reach the main summit, it could by no means be called a failure as they climbed the long northwest ridge which overlooks the lower western Cwm of Everest and re...
Vega Peak. This peak lies directly north of Morning Star Peak, and is prominently seen from Barlow Pass. Paul Williams, Klindt Vielbig and I had come to attempt it on the morning of September 4. Taking the Sunrise Mine trail from the Mountain Loop...
Chopicalqui, Entire Northwest Ridge. From the Llanganuco valley on July 30 Alberto Campanile and I climbed the trail towards the Portechuelo (pass), which we left before the high point. We climbed the moraine of Chopicalqui’s north side to the beg...
Jangyaraju, from the Southeast. After an unsuccessful attempt on the west ridge of Huandoy Oeste by Trev Briggs, Les Brown, George Jackson and me, in early July Brown and Briggs climbed Janyaraju from the Quebrada Llaca from the southeast via the ...
New peaks in Southwestern Chinn. In a splendidly illustrated article in the National Geographic Magazine for October, 1930, Dr. Joseph F. Rock reports a visit to a new district of 20,000-ft. peaks in southwestern China. The highest is Minya Konka,...
South Watchtower, Cirque of the Towers. On July 22 Court Richards and I left camp on Lonesome Lake to climb the east edge of the south face of South Watchtower in seven hours. The first five leads were free climbing, at first on somewhat loose fla...
Tanraniyoc, Cordillera Central. Southwest of Huancayo, about 12 miles east of Yauyos, is a range of rock peaks and small glaciers that has received almost no mountaineering attention. In June Mike Stewart and I hiked in from Yauricocha on the nort...
Citadel, Nothing But Time. On September 2 Jimmy Haden and Michael Pennings climbed a new route on the north face of the Citadel. Their route, Nothing But Time (IV 5.10+) starts just right of the low point of the face and climbs the leftmost of thr...
Saliojla and Condortucco, Cordillera Vilcanota. We were struck by the worst weather in fifty years right at the beginning of our Vilcanota trip. Two horses died and we had to bring the ill wife of our doctor back to civilization under bad conditio...
Haydon Peak. Barbara Stitt and I reconnoitered the south side of Mount St. Elias in May and June. On June 4, along with the Austrians Hassler and Stüwe, we climbed Haydon Peak (3641 meters, 11,945 feet) via its north face from Haydon Col. We belie...
Dhaulagiri VII, North-Northeast Face. (This first-hand account supplements the notes written on page 304 by Elizabeth Hawley in last year’s Journal.) The Singapore Dhaulagiri VII Expedition, which I led, took place from September 26-October 27, 19...
Colonial Peak, New Route in Winter. On February 8 and 9, Marc Twight, John Stoddard, Monte Westlund, and I climbed a direct line on the north face of Colonial Peak. Having seen this face towering 2000 meters above the North Cascades Highway for ma...
DEHYDRATION, HEAT EXHAUSTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 11, 1983, John DeVries, a New Zealand climber, required rescue from El Capitan as a result of heat exhaustion. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)AnalysisPaul Au...