Yerupajá, West Face, 1980. In 1980 Czechoslovaks Jaromir Stejskal, Josef Rakoncaj, Miloš Nosek and Jiri Beneš climbed the west face of Yerupajá, reaching the summit ridge between the main and south summits. Some days later, the expedition leader, ...
FALL ON SNOW, NO HELMET, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Kootenay National Park, Mount StanleyOn August 6 a climber was reported overdue from a solo attempt on the Kahl route, a popular snow and ice alpine climb. He had been dropped off at 0600 at...
Likhu Chuli I, north ridge, attempt. Japanese Koichi Ezaki and Hiroshi Kudo made the first official attempt on the north ridge of Likhu Chuli I (6,719m). The well-known trekking peak of Parchamo (6,279m) is the northerly extension of this ridge. O...
New Routes and Interesting Ascents. Mount McKinley: No new routes were completed in 1987. The Northwest Buttress was climbed by a team of four, two of whom reached the North Peak. The South-Face Haston-Scott route received its third ascent by Amer...
Dorje Lhakpa. This joint Nepalese-Japanese expedition led by Kunio Kataoka made the first authorized ascent of Dorje Lhakpa (6990 meters, 22,933 feet), though there are rumors that it had been previously climbed without permission. The expedition’...
Carnicero, 1982. Italians climbed the southwest face of Carnicero for the first time in July 1982. They made Base Camp on Juraucocha at 14,300 feet. Camp I was at 16,575 feet below the fluted slope they climbed. Camp II was 1000 feet higher. Above...
North Chasm View Wall, Fuzzy Dice. Fuzzy Dice (IV 5.10d/11a) climbs a crack system up the far left side of the North Chasm View Wall (left of the Plunge Pillar, right of the North Pillar). FA: Mike Pennings and myself in one day in the fall.Jonath...
Northeast Face of Squaretop Mountain, Wind River Range. On August 4 Bill Byrd, Roland Wyatt, and David Dingman left the Tetons for the Wind River Range on a one-week “guides’ holiday.” As we proceeded north along the Green River from the Green Riv...
Huascarán Norte, North Face, Women’s Ascent. A Polish-Czech women’s team completed a new route on the extreme right side of the north face of Huascarán Norte, between the French (Paragot) spur and the Italian northwest ridge. In the lower section ...
After five failed attempts with several partners, I joined with Dan Petrus to complete the first ascent of the north face of Heritage Point (3,600', VI M6 WI6 A2) in the Chugach Mountains. We took the most obvious ice smear in the center of the fa...
Nevado Pariacacca Norte, Traverse. The twin Nevados Tuyujuto or Pariacacca (5756m and 5701m) belong to the Cordillera de Huarochiri (locally also called Pariacacca), some 100 kilometers east of Lima. Gonzalo Menacho and I reached the area of Lake ...
Anyemaqen. In May a 13-man Japanese expedition claims to have made the first ascent of Anyemaqen (6282 meters, 20,610 feet) when Yoshio Yamamoto, Giichiro Watanabe and Katsumi Miyake reached the top. Yuzo Tada was the leader. Details are lacking. ...
Cerro Torre, Various Activity. The Southeast Ridge of Cerro Torre saw several attempts, but it appears that none was successful. In November, Swiss Jurg Anderegg and Bernd Rathmayr made two significant attempts, but both times they were driven bac...
Mount McKinley Winter Attempt and Tragedy. Japanese Noburo Yamada, Teruo Saegusa and Kozo Komatsu attempted to make a winter ascent of McKinley. They were last seen on February 22 by Austrians when they were pitching camp at 17,000 feet. An aerial...
California, Mt. Whitney. On 26 March Dr. Michael Hamilton (43) slipped and fell 1,000 to his death while descending Mt. Whitney with four companions.Source: Newspaper clippings.
HACEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 29 Stefan Jeronin (40), a client of Mountain Trip, collapsed below Denali Pass about 18,000 feet. He was treated on the hill for HACE symptoms and short-roped down to the 17,200-foot camp on the Wes...
Kamet. Our team included B.S. Vasudeva Murthy, B.G. Naganath, M.V. Rajeswari, R.M. Ashavathi, R.K. Anath, T.S. Badarinath, S. Srivatsa, B.R. Chandrasekhar, Dr. Vrushabhananda and me as leader. After obtaining the necessary inner-line and other per...
Deborah, Attempt from Yanert Glacier. Bob Hyslop, leader, Joe Throop, Omar Hansen and I were landed by Cliff Hudson on May 16 on the Yanert Glacier at 6500 feet, a half-mile from the great icefall. We were surprised to find an Alaskan party of thr...
Bear, Bona and “Super Cub Peak,” St. Elias Mountains. After receiving word that our landing site in the eastern Alaska Range was out of shape, we scrambled for a new destination. On May 29, Doug Barlow and I were landed on the eastern fork of the ...
Cerro Torre, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu and the Ragni di Lecco route. In early January, taking 32 hours base-to-summit and two days round-trip from their bivy, Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley made the first link-up of A la Recherche du Temps Perdu...