Monadnock Guide, edited by Henry I. Baldwin. Concord, New Hampshire; Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests, 1970. 128 pages, 31 photos, line drawings, 3 maps. $2.00An attractive, pocket-sized guide of the “biggest little mountain” of...
Cascades: Cashmere Crags. A plane supplying Fred Beckey and his party with aerial deliveries in this area cracked up recently and, with the exception of valuable parts, had to be abandoned.
Pumori, South Face. Base Camp was established on October 7 on the eastern flanks of Kala Pattar. On October 10 we pitched a tent at 5500 meters on Kala Pattar where Rick Allen and I acclimatized. The U.S. members, Morris Kittleman and Dave Saiget,...
Northern Patagonian Icecap. Our party consisting of the Chilean Rómulo Tarsetti S. and New Zealanders David J. Launder, leader, R. David Clark, Ray B. Molineux, Neville J. Palmer and I, was north of Cerro Arenales on the Northern Icecap between 46...
Trapecio, Southeast Face Direct. On July 10 Branko Ivanek, Miha Lampreht, and I (all from Slovenia), and Aritza Monasterio (Spanish-Basque, living in Huaraz) completed the central route (800m, ED+ AI6 M5 A2) on the southeast face of Trapecio (5,64...
Peak 6118m, Ascent. Peak 6118m (near Yunan Tso, Baralacha Pass) is an unnamed peak on the Manali-Leh highway and is easy to approach. A Snout Adventurers Association, Calcutta, led by Ujjal Roy, established a base camp on August 17. Seven members ...
Sherpa Love of the Mountains. Charles S. Houston has made available a letter from the wife of Angtharkay, famous Everest Sherpa, to Major H. W. Tilman, who had written asking for Angtharkay’s services. Part of the letter follows:Lama VillaBhutia B...
Between July 22 and August 12, Tom Bide, Martin Lane, Graeme Schofield, and I went to the southern spur of the Cordillera Huayhuash. First, and most eventfully, we went to Quesillo’s east ridge (a.k.a. Electric Lane). This route had seen attempts ...
Buni Zom Group. The Oyama High School Old Boys Alpine Club consisted of Hirotaka Saegi, leader, Tadashi Sugita and Toshinori Kiuchi. They climbed to the Khorabohrt Glacier from the Phargam Gol via a 1000-foot-high waterfall, which was easier than ...
Antarctica Traverse by Messner and Fuchs, 1989-1990. From November 13, 1989 to February 12, 1990, Reinhold Messner and German Arved Fuchs crossed Antarctica entirely on their own power except for two supply depots. Fuchs is the only person to have...
LIGHTNINGWyoming, TetonsOn July 15, 1987, Brad Anderson (26) was 90 to 100 meters in front of his hiking partners on Table Mountain when he was struck by lightning. After the strike, his partners could not see him right away. Several minutes later...
Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV Corrections. On page 286 of A.A.J., 1984 there are two mistakes. Broad Peak was climbed on July 1 by the Swiss, obviously not on a nonexistent June 31. The first ascent of Gasherbrum IV by the Italians was made by way ...
Cerro Cervantes, Second Ascent, 1991. Our expedition was composed of Eduard and Ina Koch, Ferdinand Hujer, Kunibert Ochsenfeld, Christine Wieloch and us two. On November 29, 1991, from El Calafate and the Buscaini Camp, the Kochs, Hujer, Ochsenfel...
Everest Attempt. During the post-monsoon season, a large climbing and filming party attempted the north ridge of Qomolongma (Everest) via the traditional Rongbuk-East Rongbuk-North Col route. Our objectives were to climb and film the route. We wer...
HENRY IKARUS MANDOLF1897-1972In October, 1972, Southern California lost one of its most influential mountaineers, Henry Mandolf. He was born in Graz, Austria, and was introduced to mountaineering by his father, who was a high ranking officer in th...
Mt. Kenya, Diamond Couloir, complete ascent. On October 26 my girlfriend Séverine Bornet, who is aspirant guide, and I climbed the Diamond Couloir. It was not in fat condition. The ice was fairly thin, aerated and a little soft, due to warm temper...
Waddington Region, Coast Range. In August, 1956, a group of six, consisting of Adolph and Ulf Bitterlich, of Vancouver Island, Philippe de la Salle, Sylvia Lash, Sarka Spinkova, and Earle Whipple, organized a trip to the Mount Waddington area of t...
Pik Kommunizma and Pik der Vier, Pamir. As members of an Austrian group, my Tirolean friend Franz Schösser and I climbed alpine-style Pik der Vier (6380 meters, 20,932 feet) and Pik Kommunizma (7483 meters, 24,550 feet) via the Borodin Buttress. W...
Logan Attempt, Early Bird Buttress.2 Patrick Peterson and I waited for five days at Klaune Lake for flying weather. We flew to the Seward Glacier on May 11, where we waited out another three days of storms. When the weather cleared, we left Base C...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, Happy Hour CragOn May 8, I took a 15-foot ground fall at Happy Hour, resulting in three broken ribs and a partially collapsed lung. Very lucky! I was leading “I, Robot” (5.7), a right-fa...