Rubbish on the Rongbuk Glacier. I should like to register a complaint about the huge piles of rubbish left by Japanese, French and to an extent British expeditions at a camp at about 5600 metres on the Rongbuk Glacier just past our Advance Base. I...
Une Montagne Nommée Nun-Kun, by Bernard Pierre. Preface by Sir John Hunt. 199 pages, 15 photographs, 5 sketch maps. Paris: Amiot-Dumont, 1954.This book describes the 1953 French expedition which effected the first ascent of the Nun-Kun, a handsome...
Makalu Attempt. A Czech expedition led by Ivan Gálfy attempted to make a new route on Makalu on the southwest ridge between the French and Japanese routes. Members were Dr. Jarmir Wolf, deputy leader, Fiala, Orolin, Cervinka, Brabec, Psotka, Záhor...
A. A. C., Cascade Section. Excellent weather during the summer of 1956 enabled many members to do some good climbing in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Among the more notable climbs was a second ascent, with a variation, of Mount Rainier’s...
Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, 1993. Our group was composed of Betty Hernández, Rosario Rivas, Miguel Delgado, Ramón Jáuregui, Eduardo Márquez, José Medina, Oscar Sánchez and me. After our arrival at El Cocuy on December 20, 1993, by the 24th we were on ...
FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Wind Rivers, Cirque of the TowersOn July 29, 1991, four climbers set out to climb Pingora via the Northeast Face as two separate rope teams. The first rope team was Ian Cruikshank (52) and Jeanette Hel- frich (47). The other t...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONKentucky, Red River Gorge, Muir ValleyOn October 19, a climber (age unknown) lounging on a boulder under a route at the Solarium was struck in the head and shoulder by a rock that had been dislodged by a climber above on...
Outdoor Emergency Care. Warren D. Bowman. The National Ski Patrol, 1988.466 pages, profusely illustrated. $19.95 (paper).Commissioned by the National Ski Patrol as a textbook for courses in Winter Emergency Care, this splendid book will prove valu...
Ruth Gorge, Various Ascents. Drew Spaulding, Calvin Hebert and I arrived on the Ruth Glacier on July 5. We planned to stay until early August. One of our goals was to climb Mt. Barille via one of the Cobra Pillar routes. We decided to warm up on t...
Cho Oyu. A Japanese expedition of 13 climbers was led by Takao Haga. They climbed the normal route from the north: the west ridge and west face. On April 27, Hiroshi Kato, Yasushi Tanahashi, Mingma Tenzing Sherpa and Pekka Tenja Sherpa completed t...
The prolific mountain explorer Tamotsu Ohni- shi and four companions visited the Kanti Himal in June. Their aim was the first ascent of three peaks: Kaptang, Kojichuwa Chuli, and Danphe Sail (6,103m)—peaks first opened in 2002 or 2003 and, apart f...
Tutse attempt. A Danish expedition led by Claus Ostergaard made the first official attempt on Tutse (aka Peak 6, 6,758m) close to Makalu. The peak has only recently been opened by the Nepalese Government but is believed to have received at least o...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Mount Rundle, The Professor FallsOn November 23, R.R. was leading the second pitch of this popular Grade III, WI4 route. About twenty feet up the second pitch, he placed his second screw but did not like...
Pk. 6,123m, first ascent, east ridge; Bidhan Parvat, ascent, southeast face. A 10-member expedition from Kolkata, led by Amitava Roy, planned to ascend of Devban (6,855m). The team reached base camp at Thaur Udiar (4,095m) in the Amritganga Valley...
Dhaulagiri Winter Attempt. Swiss Franco Dellatorre proposed to make a solo winter attempt on Dhaulagiri’s normal northeast ridge. He assumed he would be able to make use of the fixed ropes of the teams that had summited in October, but scanning th...
Pantpatia Glacier, exploration. The trail from Badrinath to Kedarnath Valley, as followed by the team of Shipton and Tilman, is a fascinating piece of history. Their trail via the Gandharpongi Valley was followed by a British team led by Martin Mo...
Cerro de la Mesa, Cordillera de La Ramada, Central Andes. This mountain, a huge ice and rock table very near the mighty Mercedario (6770 m), has a height of ca. 6200 meters (old official height, not corrected) and many other minor summits over 600...
Alpine Club of Canada. With continued membership growth and unprecedented increases in activities, the A.C.C. saw its most successful year yet in Some highlights of the year were in the following areas.The Board of Directors was restructured in 19...
Rainbow Wall, Various Activity. The Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, Nevada, is the closest thing to a big wall you will find near Las Vegas. This 1,000-foot sandstone wall is predominantly vertical and well-featured with edges, seams and cracks. Becaus...
Pik Olympia, Tien Shan, Kirghizstan. The UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations), which represents 77 mountaineering associations world-wide, celebrated in 1994 the 100th anniversary of the Olympic movement. One of its youngest members, ...