Twelve of our expedition reached the summit of Shishapangma. Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I, II, III and IV were at 5000, 5400, 5800, 6400, 6900 and 7150 meters. We divided into three groups and reached the summit on May 10, 12 and 19. Oswald Ga...

California—Mt. Shasta: About August 1, 1952 unroped but in the company of a friend, Carl Miller, Dan O’Neill (34) attempted to ascend Mt. Shasta. At about 12,000 feet O’Neill slipped on a steep snow slope and slid head first nearly a mile in dista...

Huayna Cunocollo, Cerro San Luis and Anco Collo, Quimsa Cruz. From June 10 to 12, Thomas Miyagawa, Randall Barnes and I climbed several peaks around the Monte Blanco Mine, which at 4800 meters we used as Base Camp. We first crossed into the Hualla...

Camballa Este, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Argentine, Manuel Puentes, and the Peruvians, Julio Pizarro and Bernhard Muyhan, on October 1 made the first ascent of Camballa Este (17,323 feet) in the Pumasillo group.César Morales Arnao, Club Andinista...

STRANDED, DARKNESS, FAILED TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 26 at 2200, members of Rocky Mountain National Park’s Search and Rescue Team were involved in an evacuation at Longs Peak’s Boulderfield whe...

Chonturasu Glacier Area, Various Ascents. In September, Pat Littlejohn followed up his 1997 guided expedition to the Chonturasu Glacier at the eastern end of the West Kokshaal-Tau with a second International School of Mountaineering trip, this tim...

Minor Peaks around Shisha Pangma. In addition to the attempt on Shisha Pangma described above, we made climbs of other peaks. P 5900, east of Phola Ganchen and north of the lake Kung Tso, was probably first climbed by the 1984 reconnaissance party...

Whitney Portal Area, Mushroom Tower, New Routes. This attractive formation is about one mile west of Whitney Portal Buttress. It is recognizable by a boulder on its summit. Approach it from the Mount Whitney trail by going up the drainage before (...

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 10, 1992, at 1710, the “West Buttheads” expedition, Timothy Hagan (39) and Paul Kogelmann (33) were descending the headwall from the 16,200 foot camp. They were traveling roped and o...

Shivling. Germans Hans Raumer, leader, Dirk von Massenbach and Jimmy Rudolf reached Tapovan on October 9. They set up a camp at 5500 meters and gained the summit on October 19 via the west ridge. From Tapovan to the summit and back took them only ...

Torre Egger. Our expedition consisted of Jim Donini, Jay Wilson and me, supported by Jane Hunter, Jane and Sherm Wilson and Maureen Donahue. We arrived in the area on December 1 and after much load carrying started the climb on December 10. Beauti...

Hanispur. Our expedition was composed of Duncan Tunstall, Wiz Pasteur, Angus Atkinson and me. We had hoped to cross the Karakoram from Skardu to Shimhal via Snow Lake, ascending by the little known Nobande Sobande Glacier and descending by the Vir...

Sentinel Rock, North Face. In September Dennis Hennek and I prepared to attempt the sixth new route on the north face of Sentinel Rock, starting 75 feet left of the Robbins-Frost route. After carrying food, water and equipment to the base of the f...

Uttaranchal, new regulations. While the world is opening its doors to mountaineers and mountain lovers, the news from the new Uttaranchal State in India is distressing. The state contains some of the most beautiful areas in the Indian Himalaya, wi...

Appalachian Mountain Club. AMC climbers could be found on expeditions throughout the world. Although there were no club-sponsored climbing trips, there were nevertheless numerous private trips to areas throughout the United States and South Americ...

Cordillera de Cocpata, Various Ascents. This is the only Bolivian Andean chain east of the divide. I hitchhiked to the Ipilla hamlet, in the central part of the range. I then hiked up the Ipilla valley and on June 14 made an ascent of Cerro Llaja ...

High Altitude Medicine and Physiology. Michael P. Ward, James S. Milledge and John B. West. University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 1989. 515 pages. $89.95.As the golden age of Himalayan climbing climaxes, it’s not surprising to find apara...

Mount Watkins, South Face, Hook, Line, and Sinker. In May Mike Munger, Steve Larsen and I finished the second route on Watkins’ south face. From the top of the 800-foot, left-hand buttress, the first technical pitches gain the left-tending ramps t...

Watch Tower, South Buttress, First Free Ascent. Last August, John Merriam and I did the first free ascent of the South Buttress (IV 5.11b R) of the Watch Tower in the Wind River Range.Jonathon Copp

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE, POOR POSITION— ATTEMPTED SHORT-CUT Oregon, Mount Jefferson, Southwest RidgeOn August 6, 1994, Gabriella Klassen (43), along with three others in her party, was descending the Southwest ridge after hav...