On April 9, I had been clipping bolts at East Colfax with Mike Endicott, Leo Paik, Dave Rogers, and Doug Redosh. Mike and I decided to cross Clear Creek to climb at some other crags. The creek was too deep to wade, so an established double-rope Ty...
In the late afternoon on October 19, a party of four was climbing on the West Ridge in two parties of two. According to one of these climbers, Mark Hanna, a male climber, 42, and his partner were top-roping the first pitch of Iron Horse (5.11) as ...
Shortly after noon on Saturday, August 9, Wayne Crill (46 at the time) was attempting to lead a new route on the left side of Lower Peanuts Wall. He was belayed by Greg Miller. Crill and Miller had previously worked the route on top-rope, figuring...
I was injured in a rock climbing accident on December 13. We were climbing Friday's Folly (5.7) on the back of the Third Flatiron. I’ve climbed the Third Flatiron probably over 100 times, but almost always soloing the East Face and either reversin...
On October 11, at approximately 7:15 p.m., several 911 calls came in to the City of Boulder Communications Center, stating that someone was yelling for help in the area of the First Flatiron. Temperatures at that time were in the low 50s (F), with...
On a lovely spring day in April, I met several friends at the Oceanic Wall in Dream Canyon, a deep tributary of Boulder Canyon. After several warm-ups, I got on a 5.11d I had climbed several times in the past. The crux lies between the third and f...
Loch Vale is a popular north-facing ice climbing area at about 10,000 feet in elevation. At approximately 3 p.m. on December 21, two climbers began to free solo Mo' Flo' Than Go, a short WI2/3 route. They told a group of four climbers who were gat...
On February 23, John Scott, 66, died when he was struck in the head by a falling rock while belaying. Scott had just lowered his partner from a sport climb called Projectiles (5.7) at the Lost Wall when a large rock (described as two feet in diame...
Just after sunrise on August 8, Phoenix firefighter Gary Johnstone, 50, and three teenage boys set up a short rappel (about 40 feet) at an outcrop known as the "Sugar Cube" that is frequently used for rappelling practice. Their anchor was a single...
The Nose of El Capitan began capturing people’s attention well before the first ascent in 1958. Long, aesthetic, and immediately visible upon entering the Valley, it has all the makings of a classic line. At 5.9 C2, the Nose is considered to be th...
After their partial new route on the south face of Illimani, Marco Farina and Marco Majori returned to La Paz with plenty of time left before their flight home. In discussions with Aldo Riveros, a local mountain guide, the three hatched a plan to ...
The south face of Illimani (6,439m) showing the two partial new routes climbed in 2015. (1) Por la Vida (2015). (2) Hubert Ducroz (1988). (3) Original Laba-Thackray Route (1974). (4) Directa Italiana (2015). Many other route...
Manu Chance and I left France with the explicit aim of climbing the south face of Illimani (6,438m). We acclimatized with new routes in the Quimsa Cruz, and then, thanks to the Bolivian mountain guide Aldo Riveros, managed to reach the aband...
Manu Chance and I arrived in La Paz on May 12 and began our acclimatization for an ascent of the south face of Illimani by sport climbing at Las Penas, where there are 100m routes from 6a to 6c at an altitude of 4,300m. We then climbed Huayna Poto...
Situated between K6 and K7, the unclimbed Link Sar (7,041m) derives it name from being the “linking” peak between these two giants. Compared to neighboring peaks, it has seen very little attention, mainly because it is hard to see in its entir...
1 - Don’t Let the Walls Cave in on You (2015). 2 - Recuperated Abandonment (2014). With José Callisaya, a mountain guide from La Paz, I made a new route on the very broad southwest face of Charquini (5,392m). Don’t Let...
Loch Vale is a popular north-facing ice climbing area at about 10,000 feet in elevation. At approximately 3 p.m. on December 21, two climbers began to free solo Mo’ Flo’ Than Go, a short WI2/3 route. They told a group of four climbers who were gat...
Our team of six—Emily Harrington, Mark Jenkins, Renan Ozturk, Cory Richards, and I, along with base camp manager Taylor Rees, headed to the far northern reaches of Myanmar in the fall to attempt the west ridge of Hkakabo Razi, in the eastern tai...
On a mid-September evening, Person 1, age 29, with many years of climbing experience, led the limestone sport climb Pleasant Dreams (5.9+) on Son Tower at the Pit. When the leader reached the top of the climb, the belayer (Person 2, age 30, with s...
On June 6, I was climbing a route near Scary Llamas (a.k.a. Hissing Llamas, a 5.8 sport climb) on the Phoenix Buttress with my wife, Claire, and our friend Mary. My wife and I witnessed a climber fall on Scary Llamas. The climber (age approximatel...