Traumatic brain injury (TBI) is caused by the exertion of a sudden force on the head and brain that causes an abrupt back and forth motion. An impact of this nature can fracture the skull, bruise the brain, tear blood vessels, and destroy neurons....
Can one guarantee a perfect adventure? It seems an oxymoron, at least by Tilman’s edict that if the outcome is certain there’s no point in starting a journey. Adventure requires uncertainty; uncertainty requires un-guarantee-ability. And yet, mix ...
On May 16, after several days of rain in Yosemite Valley, my partner and I went to do a warm-up climb on Manure Pile Buttress. As it was the first day of good weather in a while, the cliffs were busy, and all the routes were occupied except for an...
On February 14 a climber (19) fell off the sport climb Birdland (5.10+), hitting a wide ledge about 20 feet off the ground. I (Adam Hosterman, 30) was climbing nearby and saw the accident. A friend of the climber scrambled to the ledge from an adj...
After a visit to the Kasiri region, Nick Berry, John da Silva, and I traveled via Palcoma to Laguna Jachcha Khasiri (4,710m), where we established a base camp. On June 19, leaving without a map in significant mist and with little idea where to hea...
After acclimatizing in the Condoriri region, Hugh Alexander, Nick Berry, John da Silva, Rafal Malczyk, Ken Mulvany, Lili Mulvany, Peter Yuen, and I (leader) made the five-hour drive from La Paz to a camp by a series of small lagunas on the 5,070...
Mur Samir from the northwest. (1) The couloir used to access the northeast ridge in 2015. On the original ascent of the ridge, the climbers approached using the drier couloir further left. (2) Descent used by Proctor and Ta...
In 1940, the Soviet military officer VS Yatsenko visited the Ak Baital (Ak Baikal) Valley, gazed up at the five peaks forming the ridgeline at the back of the basin, and declared “the passage of this route would have done credit to any master ...
Will Kernick, who had previously been to the region in 2014 to attempt Pik Pobeda, and Tim Miller arrived on the North Inylchek Glacier in July, having transferred from Almaty in Kazakhstan. Cameron Holloway and I arrived one week later. Both ...
North of Tehran, a spectacular road leads to the Caspian Sea, passing numerous walls and high mountains, including Alam Kooh (4,851m, a.k.a. Alamkouh or Alamkoh), with one of the biggest granite walls in the country. Many rock towers in the area a...
“Travel a thousand miles by train and you are a brute; pedal five hundred on a bicycle and you remain basically a bourgeois; paddle a hundred in a canoe and you are already a child of nature,” said Pierre Elliot Trudeau, a past prime minister of C...
I cracked open a PBR tallboy. Before me was a massive pile of food, climbing gear, camping equipment, four bottles of whisky, herbal assistance, and a 40-pound Costco freezer bag full of baby-back ribs, steaks, and bacon. “This should be an enjoya...
From August 31 to September 12, Stacy Bare, Maury Birdwell, Ted Hesser, and I went to Angola to sample the climbing and do some nonprofit solar-energy installations through the Honnold Foundation. The climbing exceeded expectations, particularly i...
In May, Carter Stritch and I climbed a pair of possible new routes in the Ruth Gorge, in addition to repeating routes on Mooses Tooth and Mt. Johnson.On May 1 we climbed the southwest face of Peak 7,400’. A couloir splits the right side of this fa...
In June, Scott Peters and Kristin Arnold of St. Elias Alpine Guides, Ben Iwrey, and I made possible first ascents of two peaks in the Wrangell Mountains, near Mt. Blackburn. We were flown into the area by pilot Paul Claus after waiting for a wea...
The summits of the Neacola Mountains are not as high as in the nearby Revelation Mountains or Central Alaska Range, but the glaciers are much lower, meaning the walls still reach heights of 1,000m. With three different projects in mind in the Neac...
From March 20–22, Chad Diesinger, Jason Stuckey, and I made the first ascent of Blue Collar Beatdown (V WI4 M4 65°) on the northeast face (right shoulder) of Mt. Dickey. The route is located to the left of the Byrch-McNeill ice flow (AAJ 2004).Wit...
On April 18, Jon Griffith and I were dropped by helicopter on the upper Gillam Glacier in the Hayes Range. This beautifully harsh set of mountains is less conducive to climbing than the granite ranges farther west—ultimately that is their charm.Up...
Starting in September 2014, Sam Bendroth and I began establishing and free climbing a route on the 1,300’ seaside cliff Blow Me Down. Our route is just right of Lucifer’s Lighthouse (AAJ 2007) and shares its initial 20’. On this initial trip, we f...
Dylan Johnson and I drove to Mt. Slesse on March 6, 2015, hoping to climb the oft-attempted but unclimbed Heart of Darkness on Slesse’s north side. The Heart of Darkness is a very obvious feature: a giant gash that goes straight up between the Nor...