FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE BELAY AND PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITIONOregon, Smith RocksBill Pesklak (39) and his partner Brian Boshart (25) were working on Titanium Jag, a 5.10b, assigned two stars, an average quality...
North Over Mt. RobsonWilliam R. HainsworthIT is a great satisfaction to recall this mountain adventure with- out a single derogatory thought about the weather. In fact, we were as fortunate in this as in the unplanned sequence of events determinin...
Mount Everest, Ascents and Attempts During the Pre-Monsoon Season. Sixty-seven climbers summitted Everest from the Tibetan side of the mountain in the pre-monsoon (spring) season. Eleven teams, five of which were commercial expeditions accounting ...
Airborne to the Mountains, by James Mills with foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Thomas Yoseloff Ltd.; New York: A. S. Barnes & Co., Inc., 1961. 212 pages, 22 illustrations, 2 sketch maps, 7 appendices. Airborne to the Mountains is the record...
Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Norte, Pallasca Area in Northern Ancash. Atsumi Hosono led the expedition of the Sofia Alpine Club of Jochi University. Other members were Yoshihiko Takayama, Yasuhide Yokochi and Shuzo Kinoshita. They established ...
With Peter Barry, of Wellington, N.Z., I left Marcapata on July 6, 1969 for the Tillpa valley. We passed the ridge of Sahuancay Cruz (see map above and map notes here) with its ruins, and its bird’s-eye view on either side, and continued via Chi...
OFF ROUTE–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesWelsh climbers Dan McDonald (20) and Peris Roberts (20) started climbing Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.9) at 1130 on August 1. The route was well wit...
Diran. The original objective of Hanns Schell, Rainer Göschl and mine was the Hindu Raj, but as other expeditions had the same goals, we requested permission for Kampiri Dior, but when that was not granted we decided to try Diran (23,862 feet). Di...
High Tatras, Ridge Traverse. In January, Vlado Plulik made a solo traverse of the main ridge of the High Tatras in Slovakia. He had tried to climb the ridge in winter for the first time in 1992. His idea was to climb this problem non-stop very qui...
Thompson Ridge Area and Granite Ridge. In addition to the mountains mentioned above in Kost’s report, the Poles climbed these peaks in the Thompson Ridge area: P 7394 via west ridge by Slawomir Maczynski and Andrzej Sobolewski and June 13; P 7401 ...
FATIGUE—PULMONARY INFECTION, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO STOVEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Direct West ButtressAt 2121 on June 2, Jim LaRue (45) and River Lee-Elkin (27) of the “NW Buttress 02 ” expedition, after spending over forty hours on t...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna MountainsMichael Pennings,* unaffiliatedAS THE FOUR OF US STOOD silently watching the plane fly away, the reality of six weeks deep in the Alaskan wilderness began to sink in. Surrounding us, the sheer walls of the Kicha...
Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Jean Coudray, leader, Yves Pollet-Villard, Bernard Muller, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez, Dr. Philippe Michaud and me. We climbed the southwest buttress, attempted in 1978 by French gui...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. In late 1996, Italians P. Cavagnetto, R. Giovanetto, M. Motto, G. Predan and C. Ravaschietto attempted to climb Punta Filip (the northwest gendarme of Aguja Bifida) from the western flank, but they retreated ...
Other notable ascents (in addition to individual reports below). British climbers Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman made the long-awaited second ascent of the French Route on Mt. Hunter’s North Buttress in early May. Since the 1984 first ascent, the su...
This is the thirty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the ninth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: In 1985, the number of reported mountaineering ...
Four Gables, East Face. A very complicated mountain, Four Gables has at least four well-separated summits. A large cirque to the east ends in upper Horton Lake, and the longest, most continuous wall is north of the lake, just out of sight from the...
WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX1869–1949Walter Dwight Wilcox, who throughout a long life was devoted to the mountains, was an original member of the American Alpine Club. Born in Chicago, Illinois, on 24 September 1869, he was educated at Andover and Yale, w...
HENRY S. KINGMAN1894-1968The Club has sustained a great loss in the death of Henry Kingman who died on December 12 at the age of 74 following recent surgery. His wife the former Josephine Woodward, predeceased him in August. Kingman was a leading ...
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a blown-out photocopy of the unclimbed west side of Burkett Needle. Of course, no tactical information could be gained from scrutinizin...