Bona and Churchill. The Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Education Expedition was composed of Tamao Tokuhisa, leader, Hideki Yamamoto, Koji Saito, Makoto Kobayashi, Jiro Kenmochi and Takao Inukai. I was to have been of the party, but family illn...
Tripura Hiunchuli II. The members of our expedition were Mariano Diaz, Vincent Devlamynck, Francis Parrot, Olivier Pohl, Michel Lentz, Juany Pérez, Didier Demesy and I as leader. We approached via Jumla in western Nepal. We set out with 35 porters...
Ellesmere Island. The 1976 Ellesmere-Makinson Expedition arrived in Grise Fiord via Kenn Borek Air from Resolute on July 27; our goal was exploratory mountaineering in the high arctic. The party consisted of Curt Saville, George Wallerstein, Peter...
Pucaraju Colmillo Negro. From the trekking pass of Alto de Pucaraju, this free-standing rock spire appears as a sharp black obelisk below and to the right of the main summit of Pucaraju (16,486 feet). As I approached it after soloing the main summ...
On the morning of May 10, four climbers (ages 23–34) left their camp on the Wilson Glacier at approximately 02:45 to climb the Fuhrer Finger Route of Mount Rainier. About 0830, while ascending the route using skins and skis, unroped, and at 13,200...
Zion, Various Ascents. During late winter, Dan Stih and I made the first ascent of the Altar of Sacrifice, as well as the remaining four Towers of the Virgin in Zion National Park. Over three days in early March, we climbed and fixed the grotesque...
Fremont Peak. On September 15 Gerry Holdsworth and I ascended the west face of Fremont, from the upper Titcomb Lakes, reaching the summit at 9:30 A. m. via a route which was cairned part of the way. We then followed the north ridge of Fremont unti...
STRANDED, GREED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Mount MeaderIn October 1994, two youths (c. 18) spied some climbing gear on rappel stations on a cliff of Mount Meader in the Carter Range. They had previously done a rock day at a summer camp and...
Ixtaccihuatl. The Aztec name means “White Woman,” the Spaniards call it, less euphoniously, La mujer gordata.The first ascent was made in 1889 by James de Salis, a Swiss resident of Mexico City, and was closely followed by that of H. Remsen Whiteh...
Terrace Tower, East Buttress. Despite rain and snow for twenty straight days, between June 30 and July 6 Steven Stine, Bill Gibson and I managed to complete a route on the prominent east buttress of Terrace Tower between the first and second cirqu...
Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face. On July 28, Dave Adams and I climbed a new route on Northwest Twin Spire in the Chilliwack’s. From the northwest edge of the 7700-foot col between the northwest and southeast spires we scrambled up a prominent...
TABLE IIAccidentsGeographical Districts1947-19571958Atlantic States—North254South40 Central20 Colorado520Utah & New Mexico80 Wyoming354 Montana & Idaho80Accidents1947-19571958Arizona & Nevada50California456...
Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported. The Crystal Way (IV 5.10a) provides a day-long adventure up the 1,500-foot wall of North Peak (upper buttress) on semi-difficult ground. Scott Scully and I climbed the route in June,...
Ascents in 1965. A number of climbs were made in 1965 which were not reported in time to be included in the A.A.J., 1966. In Garhwal Ganesh Parbat (21,430 feet) was climbed on June 16 by an Indian Police expedition led by Shivraj Singh. The leader...
P 10,999 and P 10,000, North of Regal Mountain, Wrangell Mountains. The Alpine Club Cairn expedition was landed at Green Hill and ascended the Nabesna Glacier to establish Base Camp at 6800 feet five miles northwest of Regal Mountain. From a high ...
Middle Fork, Tule River Area. In the winter of 1980-81, Patrick Paul, Gary Kunkel, Randy Powers and I made the first ascent of the “Powerhouse Wall”, just south of the powerhouse on the Wishon Fork of the Middle Fork of the Tule River, east of Spr...
Penny-Nickel Arête. On April 7 Kep Stone and I climbed a new route on the wall to the left of the Penny-Nickel Arête. The route starts several hundred feet left of the arête and leads up cracks and ramps, angling slightly to the left for seven pit...
Spanish Reconnaissance, Huaytapallana and Vilcanota. Angel Anglada and Miguel Gómez Sánchez made the third ascent of Lasuntay (18,964 feet) in the Cordillera de Huaytapallana on August 8. In the Cordillera Vilcanota they tried the Campa peaks but ...
Snow Creek Wall, New Routes. Between the Grand Arch and Easter Tower lies a four-pitch mixed aid and free climb route on Halloween Buttress, first climbed on October 29 by Curtis Stout, Eric Bjornstad and me. Thirty-four pitons were used, and a fr...
New Routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. In July Charlie Logan and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Spearhead. The right side of the face is a triangular plate, laced with a spider’s web of cracks, and with a hooked top. Our route...