Annapurna I. An Austrian expedition led by Ernst Gritzner gave up attempting the French route on Annapurna I on May 8 after Rudolf Widmann was injured in an avalanche between Camps II and III.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Fitz Roy Area, Various Ascents. On February 11, 1998, Rainer Treppter and two partners (all from Germany) summited Fitz Roy via the Royal Flush route (second ascent). On February 12, German Jens Richter and Jack Tigle (Scotland) climbed the Franco...
Spire Point, South Face. On September 14, Paul Karkiainen and I made the first ascent of the south face of 8220-foot Spire Point, 600 feet above the snow high over Cub Lake in the Dome Peak country. The route starts at a chimney west of the bottom...
Polish Expeditions in the Hindu Kush. There were in 1977 some 22 Polish expeditions in the Hindu Kush with 180 members. They achieved much in the way of climbing and science. The greatest problem now is the requirement to spend $20 (US) per man/da...
Umanak Fjord, West Greenland. A party from England sailed in Mischief to this region at latitude 71° 30’ N., leaving May 14 and arriving at Igdlorssuit July 18. This is a small Esquimo settlement on Ubekendt Island, but for a party which has to hi...
Ganesh II Attempt. A joint expedition of four Swiss and two Nepalese was led by Peter Molinari. They attempted the southeast face to the south ridge but on October 16 failed to get higher than 20,000 feet. They had only one camp (18,500 feet) abov...
“Little Mac Spire”. On June 19, naïvely contemplating a one-day east-west traverse of all the McMillan Spires, Bill Sumner and I made the first ascent of this unnamed pinnacle immediately east of East McMillan Spire in the Southern Pickets, via a ...
Ganesh II. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the first ascent of Ganesh II (23,458 feet) under the leadership of Takeo Ohmori. They tried the southeast ridge but found it difficult and turned to the north face. On October 19 the climbing l...
Noshaq. Two Austrian expeditions, one from Styria composed of Dr. Gerald Gruber, Dr. Rudolf Pischinger, Norbert Zernig, Sepp Weber, and Manfred Schober and the other from Upper Austria composed of Hans Pilz, Matthias Hofpointner, Siegfried Jungmai...
Annapurna Tragedy. A three-man Japanese expedition was attempting Annapurna via the Dutch rib when on October 18 Camp II was buried by an avalanche. Susumu Akimatsu and Miko Ono died but Takashi Ozaki escaped.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and...
Mt. Sergeant Robinson, north face. Cash Joyce and Carl Oswald, who has been extremely active in putting up routes in the western and northwestern Chugach over the last few years, did a 12-hour blitz of the previously unclimbed north face of Mt. Se...
P 12,360 and Others, Mount Hayes Group. The Kansai University expedition was composed of Yoshimi Miyamoto, Hajime Naemura, Hiroshi Anzawa, Shigefumi Matsumoto and me as leader. Three of us left Paxson for Mount Hayes on June 16 by plane, but the p...
On May 2 Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi landed Cody Arnold, Peter Haeussler, and I, all from Anchorage, at 5,600' on the northwest fork of the Coffee Glacier. Over the next four days we made an attempt on the west ridge of Broken Tooth. Start...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Membership in the Section increased to over 100 members with the addition of several new climbers to the roster. Most members were active throughout the summer both within the United States and elsewhere. Trips were made t...
Huascarán Norte, Canine Ascent. From August 27 to 30, José Ignacio Ramírez and I ascended Huascarán Norte via the Garganta. Two dogs from Musho accompanied us during the whole ascent and got to the summit with us on the 29th. It was surprising to ...
Mir Samir. Two expeditions, Kohtaro Ohyama, leader, Yatuka Arita, Munechika Sawada, Yasumasa Ueno, Hironari Hirabayashi and Keizo Kohno of Meijo University and Shigeo Handa, leader, Minoru Hashimoto, Muto, Ishizuka and Otsuki of the Chukyo Alpine ...
Peak Nazarbaev, Mass Ascent. On July 6, our party of about 300 made the first ascent of Peak Nazarbaev (4376m) in the Zailiysky Alatau range above the city of Almaty. Peak Nazarbaev had not been climbed because it had not existed prior to July 6, ...
Fitz Roy, First Winter Ascent. Gabriel Ruiz, Eduardo Brenner and I made the first winter ascent of Fitz Roy, climbing it by the Supercouloir. Starting from the Piedra del Fraile, we spent the night of July 25 in a tent 100 meters below the couloir...
Kugssuatsiaq, South Greenland. The Leicester Polytechnic Students’ Greenland Expedition arrived in Nanortalik on July 11, travelling by air from Glasgow and by coastal ferry from Narssarsuaq. On July 19 we sailed overnight by fishing boat to the v...
Gangotri Region. An unnamed and unclimbed peak of 19,200 feet in the Gangotri region was climbed by Dr. G.R. Patwardhan, Kripal Singh, Sr., Kripal Singh, Jr., and Padam Dutta on May 26. They had established Base Camp on May 23 on the left bank of ...