Vinson Massif, summary and new normal route. A new record total of 157 people reached the summit of Vinson during the 2007-08 season, including at least 19 women. Most of the Vinson ascents were by a new variant to the normal route, detailed below...
Pangong Range, several ascents. A young team of soldiers from the crack 8 Mountain Division of the Indian Army made several ascents in the remote Pangong Range. These peaks lie close to the border with Tibet and are sandwiched between the Military...
GRACE HOEMAN, M D.1921–1971The most active climber in Alaska, Grace Hoeman, died at age 49 on April 12, 1971, in an avalanche on Eklutna Glacier near Anchorage. One companion perished with her; another survived.Grace Hoeman was born in Silver Beac...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. October 31 was a tragic day for our small expedition of four members. Lithuanian Dainius Makauskas, having reached the summit with Nuru Sherpa and me, disappeared on the descent. It was a bitter ending to our trip in...
In August, Jock Jeffrey, Graham Rowbotham, Simon Woods, and I arrived in the Muzkol Range. We wished to make the first ascent of Zartosh, a peak that had been attempted in the late 1990s and 2000 by commercial expeditions organized by EWP, a U.K. ...
Kasum Kanguru’s East FaceSolitary adventures on a never-ending storyby Yasushi Yamanoi, Japan translated by Eiichi FukushimaKasum Kanguru, at 6370 meters and with all the approaches to its summit consisting of steep snow and rock faces, might not ...
Koma Kulshan: The Story of Mt. Baker. John C. Miles. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 232 pages, black and white photographs, sketches, maps, bibliography. $9.95.Koma Kulshan was an Indian name for Mount Baker, the 10,778-foot volcanic peak in the...
Die Weltalte Majestät (The Struggle for the Gross Venediger), by Oskar Kuelken. 8vo., 317 pages and 54 illustrations, 14 sketches and maps. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1950. Price, $4.00.An almost forgotten phenomenon of Alpine history i...
Maps of Nepal. Harka Gurung. White Orchid Books, Bangkok, 1983. 100 pages, 28 color and black and white maps, many sketches and geological information.The author has been engaged in large-and small-scale planning, not only in his native Nepal but ...
Nanga Parbat, southeast (Rupal) face. From September 1 to 6 Vince Anderson and Steve House made an alpine-style ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, via a new line up the central pillar between the south-southeast spur (a.k.a. Messner Route, 1970)...
Appendix to MRC Report. A working relationship has been established between rescue personnel in the Pacific Northwest and rescue authorities in the Alps. The countries concerned formed an International Commission for Alpine Rescue, which is also k...
“Neverseen Tower” and Other Peaks, Miyar Valley. Italians Massimo Marcheggiani, Leone Di Vincenzo and Alberto Miele completed the first ascent of a bold needle, “Neverseen Tower” (c. 5950 meters, 19,520 feet). The 900-meter-high route was climbed ...
BELAY AND TIE-IN ERROR, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Dogwood CragOn September 26, University of Utah, Remote Rescue Training’s HighAngle Rescue Technician class was practicing rope rescue systems at the Dogwood crag in Big...
The Bean Pole, first ascent; Latok I attempt. On July 12 Bean Bowers and I headed up the north ridge of Latok I to put in a cache and check out the bottom section of the climb. Skirting to the west the rock buttress climbed by many parties, we cli...
On October 9,1993, Joel Blumhagen (43) and Darby Roach were climbing the standard route on Chair Peak. At 1245 Blumhagen clipped into an old piton behind a flake. The flake dislodged and fell on him, starting a small avalanche, and he fell. In t...
Fifty Favorite Climbs: The Ultimate North American Tick List. Mark Kroese. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 150 color photos. 224 pages. $32.95.My bet is that within a year Fifty Favorite Climbs (henceforth FFC) will be found next to Fifty C...
Washington, Denny Creek Trail—Eugene Todd (26), an experienced climber and member of both the Mazamas of Oregon and The Mountaineers of Washington, lost his life in an accident on Sept. 15.Todd and two other Mountaineers, Earl Doan and Tina Hess, ...
Mountain MedicineA review of High-Altitude Cerebral Edemaby Geoffrey Tabin, M.D.The week before Jeff Colovis and I went to climb the Black Dike on Cannon Cliff in New Hampshire, he broke four toes in an accident at his construction job. I suggeste...
Nalumasortoq, Cheese Finger at Three O’Clock. It was reported that Swiss Christian Dalphin led an international team that climbed Cheese Finger at Three O’Clock, an 18-pitch aid line estimated at 550 meters on the central tower of Nalumasortoq. Th...
Lhakpa Sherpa, Nandan Singh Negi, Pemba Sherpa, Thendup Sherpa, and I reached a previously unvisited col on the ridge north of Berthatoli Himal. West of Lata we headed south and crossed two passes traditionally used by shepherds to access the Ront...