Everest Attempt. Carolyn Gunn and I arrived on August 17 at Kathmandu, where we met the other team member, Tamding Sherpa. We left on the 20th for Tibet and arrived at our 17,000-foot Base Camp on August 24. On the 29th, Carolyn and I hiked up the...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY-ROPE TOO SHORTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Back of the Lake CragOn September 15, after completing Imaginary Grace (5.8), a climber was being lowered out from the anchors by his partner. The route is 30 meters long and t...
Everest, an uncommon post-monsoon ascent and partial ski descent. Only a handful of climbers go to Everest in the autumn season because everyone knows that very few succeed in the short climbing period between the end of the monsoon rains in Septe...
Point 11,653. Continuing the intensive exploration of the environs of Mount Moran, Ted Vaill, Stuart Kearns, and Ben Shapiro made the first ascent of this prominent point on the northwest ridge of Moran on August 31. After taking the boat across J...
BHOS Dome, Tenaya Canyon. If you know where to look and you really care, BHOS Dome is visible from the Mirror Lake parking area. Last spring, Dennis Hennek, TM Herbert, Doug Scott, and I climbed the southface–or the Mugwump Wall–in 1½ days. The ro...
Churen Himal. A 10-member expedition of Kawasaki University, led by Kazuhiro Sato, attempted Churen Himal (24,184 feet) from the north, a new route which would have tried the east and north peaks. The expedition was abandoned on April 21 after two...
A.A.C., New York Section. On July 4, 1993, an era came to a close as the American Alpine Club moved its headquarters from the Ladd Clubhouse in New York City, where it had resided since 1949, to the Junior High School Building in Golden, Colorado....
Huandoy Oeste, 1978. To clarify the new route we did (A.A.J., 1979, p. 229), I add the following. We climbed from the Cook Glacier to the plateau via a small ridge in the center of the ice wall to the right of Ortenburger’s 1954 route. The ridge e...
Peaks along the Prince Rupert Line of the Canadian National Railways. About five miles west of Dorreen is Mt. Sir Robert Borden, consisting of two peaks and a small glacier; also a rather spectacular sharp peak beyond and a rounded snowy one beyon...
Baptiste Lake Tower. While in the Grave Lake area I made a solo first ascent of the attractive tower just northeast of the mouth of Baptiste Lake. It can be seen very prominently on the trail from Grave Lake and is actually the southern peak of th...
Mt. Chamberlain, Asleep at the Wheel. In August Mike Pennings and I checked out Mt. Chamberlain, located southwest of Mt. Whitney. I had been teased by a photo of the northwest face for years. A buttress on the left (southern) edge of the wall was...
HAPE AND HACEWashington, Mount RainierWhile spending the night on the summit of Mount Rainier, off duty climbing rangers Gauthier and Patterson were contacted by the leader of a scientific research team, who informed them that one of his team memb...
Mesahchie Peak. This peak has received increasing attention in the past few years. On July 29, 1978, Stimson Bullit and Kjell Gustafson climbed the east ridge. Subsequent parties have climbed variations on the ridge and the adjacent southeast gull...
Stok Kangri and P 20,000+, Zanskar Range, 1976. On September 16, 1976 Dr. William Hawk, Richard Brower and I established Base Camp at 15,000 feet north of Stok Kangri (20,723 feet). The next day I climbed solo P 20,000+ via 45° ice slopes on the n...
Ama Dablam, West Ridge. Second place in the High Altitude Class of the Russian Climbing Competitions went to the team consisting of B. Ceducov (leader), E. Vinogradskie, N. Zakapov, V. Kapataev, A. Karlov, V. Lebedev, V. Pershin, and G. Tortladze ...
Lower Sentinel Falls Ice Climbing, Yosemite. In January 1987, during an unusual cold snap, Ed Sampson and I climbed the lowest 750 feet of the frozen Lower Sentinel Falls. The ice was thin but well bonded to the wall. The route was repeated over t...
Witherspoon Attempt, Chugach. The Mountaineering Association of Higashimatusyama City of Saitama Prefecture Expedition was composed of Nakamasa Matsuzaki, Atsui Kojima and four others. They were landed on the Columbus Glacier by Don Sheldon in Jun...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, HYPOTHERMIAColorado, NotchtopSince there were no witnesses to this incident, the following scenario is based on educated conclusions from the evidence found.Mark Frevert (28) and Bo Mitchell (19) departed the Bear Lake t...
Devtoli and Kedarnath, 1979. Two successful expeditions of 1979 not previously reported were a Tokyo expedition led by Fujiro Konno, which climbed Devtoli (22,270 feet, 6788 meters) in the Nanda Devi region, and an Indian expedition, which made th...
Truce Mountain and the “Horseshoe Peaks”, Truce Group, Purcells. On July 20 Bruce Beck, Jack Wells, and I left our car, some miles up the Jumbo Creek road, and packed over 7500-foot Jumbo Pass into the valley of the south terminal fork of Glacier ...