LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierAt 12:28 a.m. on February 7, 1981, Jeff Warren (20) called Paradise from Camp Muir on the emergency radio stating that there had be...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE ANCHOR SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Washington ColumnOn December 3, Andrew Morrison died when he fell several hundred feet from the South Face of Washington Column (Grade V, 11 pitches, 5.10a A2) in Yosemite Valley. ...
Where the Clouds Can Go. The autobiography of Conrad Kain. Edited, with additional chapters, by J. Monroe Thorington. 8 vo. ; xxiv + 462 pages, with index and 29 illustrations. New York: American Alpine Club, 1935. Price $3.00.Only the other eveni...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951–63U.S.1959–63CAN.U.S.1964CAN.TerrainRock 424124112Snow23524212River2010Unknown 0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 30722396Descent 30713228Unknown 46120...
Mt. Hunter, Diamond Arête, second ascent. When Freddie Wilkinson asked what I thought about trying for the second ascent of Hunter’s Diamond Arête (2,000m, Alaska Grade 6, Donini-Tackle, 1985), I was pretty much hooked, as it had been a dream rout...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn June 8,1 (Tim Derouin) was climbing up Avalanche Gulch on Mount Shasta with Mike Chase and his brother Steve. The weather over the past few days had been quite unsettled and ve...
Yurac Janka, Guide to the Peruvian Andes, Part I, Cordilleras Blanca and Rosco, by John F. Ricker. Banff: Alpine Club of Canada, and New York: American Alpine Club. 1977. 180 pages, 4 maps (separate), 11 panoramas, 45 photographs, and sketch maps....
The American Alpine Club113 EAST 90TH STREET NEW YORK 28, N. Y.To All Lovers of Mountains:No mountaineer, looking back on the 1947 climbing season, can fail to be impressed and saddened by the shocking number of fatal and near-fatal accidents whic...
An Attempt on Mt. Wood, St. Elias RangeForesta Hodgson WoodPermission for the Third Wood Yukon Expedition having been granted by the Canadian authorities, we set out on June 27th for Seattle, Skagway and Whitehorse. Walter Wood, Anderson Bakewell,...
FALL ON ICE, EQUIPMENT FAILUREBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount FieldAt 1230 on December 31, 1985, two experienced ice climbers (39 and 30) were ascending Silk Tassel waterfall. They were about 15 meters up the ice route, when the leader (3...
OVERDUE—INADEQUATE COMMUNICATIONS Alaska, Denali National Park, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeOn June 3, Ranger Joe Reichert requested a search for overdue climbers Sue Nott and Karen McNeill of the “Best Chilled” expedition climbing the Cassin Ridg...
P 13,841, North Face. In May Larry Derby and I climbed this 800- foot face, at the head of Square Gulch, some 15 miles south of Lake City. We scrambled up the lower face via a third-class rounded buttress in the right center of the face and climbe...
Field Book: The Teton Range and Gros Ventre Range by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver: Sage Books, 1963. 185 pages; ills. maps. Price $3.50.The effort, care and scholarship that went into this Field Book have obviously been considerable...
Nun, Direct West Ridge Variant. Heavy late-winter snows and the closed Zoji La created logistical problems but Indian Airlines solved the Zoji Pass problem as we converged on Leh on April 26. We were Gary Ball, Andrew Dennison, Peter Lev, Paul Ste...
Of Men and Mountains, by William O. Douglas, xiv + 338 pages, with drawings by Mary B. Watkins. New York: Harper and Brothers, 1950. Price, $4.00.There can be few of us who did not read with concern, last October, that William O. Douglas had emerg...
DAVID SEIDMAN1946 - 1969David Seidman was a strong climber. He was the strongest member of our 1967 expedition on the evening that we reached the top of the South Face of Mount McKinley. The summit was still several miles away and at first we took...
Teton RangeDuring the past summer the writer served as guide in the Grand Teton National Park, and succeeded in making two new routes up the S. face of Symmetry Spire, as well as one on the S. side of Storm Point. A second ascent of Teepe’s Pillar...
Chris Brazeau and I spent four weeks in Auyittuq National Park, climbing the granite walls and ridges of the Weasel Valley. We left home with inspiring photos, vague beta, and a lot of excitement. In the fishing village of Pangnirtung in early J...
PAUL NUNN 1943-1995On August 6, Paul Nunn and Geoff Tier were descending from the summit of Haromosh II (6666 meters), in the Karakoram Range, when they were overwhelmed and buried by a massive icefall collapse. They would have all been safely bac...
Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sage Books, Second, Revised Edition 1965. 528 pages; 95 ills.; 44 maps and aerial photos; index. Price $7.50.This second revised edition...