Cerro Bonete Chico and Pilar de las Pailas, Northern Andes. Remote Bonete Chico (unofficial name) in Catamarca Province was ascended for the third time. Seven members of the Club Andino La Rioja approached via the Río de Oro and placed a high camp...
The “Whiskey Expedition” departed the 14,200-foot camp at noon on May 25 for a summit bid via the upper West Rib of Denali. Their plan was to summit and then accomplish a ski descent via the couloir system to climber's left of the West Rib. Two da...
Medical Therapy of High Altitude IllnessColin Kerst Grissom, M.D.WE WERE CLIMBING UNROPED on steep terrain near the top of the West Rib of Denali. We had made good progress initially after an early start from our camp at 16,000 feet, but the highe...
On September 9 John Frieh, Zac West, and I flew to the Burkett Glacier in the heart of the Stikine Icecap. A rare two-day weather window had appeared between the record storms and rainfall that had been hammering the area all summer. We abandoned ...
La Grande Crevasse, by R. Frison-Roche. 8vo., 300 pp., photographic illustrations. Grenoble: B. Arthaud. Price, 300 frs.A friend living in Madeira told me of Frison-Roche’s first book, Premier de Cordée. She assured me that the whole reading publi...
Huayna Potosí, Illampu, Cordillera Real. There were two Japanese expeditions to the Cordillera Real. The expedition of the Medical Department of Nihon University was led by Yoshihiko Kawakubo and Kenichi Shibata and had twelve other members. They ...
Classics in the Literature of Mountaineering and Mountain Travel from the Francis P. Farquhar Collection, an annotated bibliography by James R. Cox. Los Angeles: University of California Library, 1980. 58 pages, illus. Price $25.00.Some years ago ...
Sosbun Tower, Attempt, and Nameless Peak, Ascent. Even if they are “veterans” of the Karakoram, few climbers know the name of the Sosbun Tower. These rocky towers are located in the Sosbun Glacier. Taeko Yamanoi and I were with Daisaku Nakaga, wit...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club’s 30th anniversary year was a very active one. The annual banquet in April attracted 158 members from seven states with Harvey Carter of Aspen, Colorado, the guest speaker. A series of 18 film-lectures was presented by ...
Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste, Hay Que Ser Humildes. In mid-August Carlos Pineda and I climbed a direct line on the southwest face of Nevado Yanapaccha Noroeste (Noroeste I; 5,290m). This Nevado is situated southeast of well-known Nevado Chacraraju...
Annapurna IV. We climbed the normal route, the north face and northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. From our 4800-meter Base Camp we placed three camps 5200, 5800 and 6360 meters. We two guides, Jean Frank Charlet and I, seven clients and Sherpas Mingm...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONOregon, Mount Washington, West FaceOn Thursday, July 29, Thomas Siefert (46) and Gary Gentz (50) were making their first attempt at climbing the West Face of Mount Washington in the Oregon Cascades. Oregon High, ...
Adak MemoriesKenneth A. HendersonWHEN the rain beats down heavily or the wind threatens to tear off the roof, I often think back longingly to the year and a half that I spent in the Aleutians, and in fancy carry myself back to that weirdly beautif...
Fitz Roy, East Buttress, El Corazón Route. On December 13, 1991, Michel Pitelka and I reached the Río Blanco Base Camp below Fitz Roy. Our objective was the aesthetic line on the 1300-meter-high east buttress of Fitz Roy. The bad weather during De...
Hidden deep in the mountains, 85km from the nearest city, Taghia has recently become a climbing Mecca for Europeans. However, this region has been quietly explored since the 1970s, mainly by Spanish. Massive limestone walls and deep canyons form a...
Joshua Tree National Monument. There is a variety of rock climbing to be found in this large Southwestern desert preserve. Here one can climb on large tumbled piles of monzonite and granite or upon individual boulders which rise from 30 to 150 fee...
TolosaArthur B. Emmons 3rdON a previous visit to the vicinity of Aconcagua in the Argentine Andes during February, 1944,1 our party had passed close beneath the imposing buttresses of one of the principal peaks bordering the Horcones Valley on the...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Organ PipesOn April 28, 1991, Charles Sharp (34) took a 15 foot lead fall while leading the second pitch of Organ Pipes on the Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mounta...
Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories. John Sherman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 238 pages. $24.95.Here we have John Sherman’s collected articles—30 of them, almost all written during the 1990s and most having first appeared i...
WINTHROP BENTON GREENE(1869–1939)Rev. Winthrop Benton Greene died in Philadelphia on December 6th, 1939, at the age of seventy, following a long illness. A graduate of Williams College and of Union Theological Seminary, he was former assistant pas...