Book Reviews AAJ
Vanishing Trails of Atacama

Vanishing Trails of Atacama by William E. Rudolph. American Geographical Society Research Series #24; 87 pages, 50 illustrations, maps and bibliography. New York, 1963.The highlands of Atacama include the highest volcanoes of the world, which reac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, West Greenland, Sanderson's Hope, Northwest Face, New Route

Sandersons Hope, northwest face, new route. On July 2 the yacht Northanger set sail for Greenland from Port Kirwan, Newfoundland. On board were the captains/owners Keri Pashuk and Greg Landreth, climbers Chris “Beeker” Romeskie and I, and crew Ang...


In Memoriam AAJ
Sir Robert Charles Evans, 1918-1995

SIR ROBERT CHARLES EVANS 1918 - 1995Charles Evans was a mountaineer’s mountaineer: expert, unassuming and self-effacing to a fault, whose love of neurosurgery and climbing demanded judgment, skill and nerve. He began serious climbing in 1938 and a...


Book Reviews AAJ
Northwest Mountaineering

Northwest Mountaineering by Edward A. Rossit. Caldwell, Idaho: The Caxton Printers, Ltd., 1965. 206 pages. 14 photographs in black and white. $5.50.The book jacket describes this hardbound volume as "an instruction book for the beginning and inter...


Book Reviews AAJ
Las Montanñas de México

Las Montañas de México, by Miguel Guzmán Peredo. Mexico City: Costa-Amic Editores, 1968. 232 pages, 2 photographs.To portray the three ice volcanoes of Mexico – Iztaccihuatl, Popocatepetl and Orizaba – as they were seen by Conquistadores, poets, s...


In Memoriam AAJ
Valerie Alfred Flynn, 1870-1929

(Read and adopted at the Annual Meeting January 11, 1930.)VALERE ALFRED FYNN 1870—1929Valere Alfred Fynn, one of the leading authorities on alternating current motors in the world, was born in Krasno, Russia, April 11th, 1870, son of Alfred R. Fy...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains

P 8690 and P 9840, St. Elias Mountains. On June 21, I led Susan Bolton and Bob Bolin to near the tongue of the Chitina Glacier. After landing at Huberts Landing Strip, for two days we hiked through brush to camp at 6600 feet. On June 24, we spent ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Ulta, West-Northwest Face

Nevado Ulta, west-northwest face. Previously unreported and scarcely known is an August 1985 ascent of an ice-and-mixed line, thought to be on the far left side of the west-northwest face (called the northwest face in the photo on p. 275 of the 20...


Book Reviews AAJ
Sterling B. Hendricks, 1902-1981

STERLING B. HENDRICKS1902-1981He was a member of the National Academy of Sciences, the recipient of an impressive number of honorary degrees in addition to the standard academic diplomas in Chemical Engineering and other higher degrees majoring in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington — Cascades, Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir

Katsuk Peak, North Face Couloir. On May 3, my brothers Gordy and Carl and I climbed a 1200-foot couloir that splits the left side of this face. We made running belays by looping slings around horns, but some of the anchors were questionable. Snow ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat. Two men were lost and the third suffered frostbite during an abortive attempt by three Englishmen to climb Nanga Parbat in December 1950. Full details are lacking, but The Listener quotes the survivor, Richard Marsh, as stating, “The...


Club Activities AAJ
University of Wyoming Outing Club

University of Wyoming Outing Club. The excellent guidance of Tom Christensen and Gary Poush during 1969 provided the club with an increased membership and a vast array of activities. Highlights of the climbing season were: two successful winter cl...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers have grown to over 10,000 members in 1979, with the attendant problems of meeting the needs and desires of so many. As the club has grown, new interests have developed. A few years ago we instituted additional wi...


Book Reviews AAJ
Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1910-1982

Surviving Denali: A Study of Accidents on Mount McKinley, 1910-1982. Jonathan Waterman. The American Alpine Club, 1983. 160 pages. Black and white photographs, map, charts, appendices. Estimated $10.00.McKinley is a paradoxical mountain. Windswept...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, The Mainland, Sentinal Range, Overview

Sentinel Range, overview. In the 2001-02 season 67 climbers, including only four women, attempted Vinson by the normal route. Sixty reached the summit, producing a success rate of 90 percent, slightly lower than usual. No new routes were climbed i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cordillera Darwin, 1987 South America, Tierra del Fuego

Geof Bartram, Steve Amstutz, Pete Getzels, and I converged on Punta Arenas, planning to explore the Canal Beagle and the southern fjords of the Darwin Range by sea kayak and to try climbing routes in the vicinity of Monte Darwin. We received treme...

| Published N/A | Author Michael André


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Timrazine Canyon, Capitan Tajin Africa, Morocco

Climbing almost every day from October 5 till the 17th, Abigail Pickett from France and Andrea Cattarossi, Daniele Geremia, Silvano Gosso, Marco Zaffiri, and I from Italy repeated beautiful routes and over three days created our own. This route is...

| Published N/A | Author Francesco Fazzi


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Wyoming, Tetons

FALLING ROCKS Wyoming, TetonsAbout 0830 on July 26, 1987, David Ryan (30) and Paul Kopczynski (24) were passing the Molar Tooth on the East Ridge of the Grand Teton via the north traverse. As Kopczynski was coiling the ropes after their rappels, R...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Heritage Range, Mt. Spörli (2,253m), Northeast Face

Mt. Spörli (2,253m), northeast face. Climbers were again active among the small peaks around Union Glacier, due to ALE’s new base near Mt. Rossman (see map in AAJ 2011). Probably the most notable climb in the area was the first ascent of Mt. Spörl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Inadequate Equipment, Unclear Leadership/Decision Making, New York, Adirondacks

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, UNCLEAR LEADERSHIP/DECISION MAKINGNew York, AdirondacksOn Saturday morning, March 11, 1989, Linda Hepburn (36) arrived with four companions (Art Portmore, Patrick Clark, Peter Osborne, and Mike Douglass) at the b...