RICHARD L. BURDSALL 1895-1953Richard L. Burdsall, son of Elwood and Louella M. Burdsall, was born at Purchase, New York, in 1895. After graduation from Swarthmore College in 1917 as a mechanical engineer, he served with the American Friends Servic...
Alberta, Mt. Yamnuska. On 2 May John Kula (22) and John Martin (29) began climbing the Redshirt Route of Mt. Yamnuska (rated II F6) in the morning. Martin had not climbed this route before, and John Kula had climbed only the first two pitches prev...
The West Face of HuantsánPeter Lehner, James Wuest and Brinton YoungDuring the summer of 1979, six of us from the Harvard Mountaineering Club accomplished the first ascent of the west face of the Nevado Huantsán in Peru. Huantsán, at 20,982 feet t...
Changi Tower North Peak, First Ascent. Changi Tower (ca. 5800m) (the actual height of Changi Tower was difficult to assess, firstly because of the poor-quality maps [all maps greater than 1:50,000 are classified as restricted military information]...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Moose's Tooth, Ham and EggsOn May 11, a climber fell about 60 feet while climbing the “Ham and Eggs” route on the Moose’s Tooth. He sustained tibia/fibula fractures, with ankle and metatarsal dislocations...
1910. Mt. McKinley’s North PeakDee MolenaarAt first the reported ascent of Mt. McKinley’s North Peak by three miners from Fairbanks was dismissed as a tall tale from fertile boomtown imaginations. Eventually it was deemed one of the greatest feats...
A Summer in ZermattCharles S. HoustonFOR some time Dr. Graham Brown had urged on me the delights of the Pennine Alps, and it was more than coincidence that brought us there together last summer. After a pleasant trip to London, we rattled all nigh...
Fenriskjeften mountains, Ulvetanna, north face, and other ascents; Holte- dahl mountains, six first ascents. Stein-Ivar Gravdal, Trond Hilde, Ivar Tollefsen, and I visited the Orvin mountains in Queen Maud Land from November 2 through December 10....
Jongsang Peak, South Summit I, New Route and Tragedy. The expedition, organized by the Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS), had planned to climb the unclimbed 7000-meter-plus Janak Chub, but though organization of the expedition was already in pr...
Mount Hubbard and Mount AlverstoneRobert H. BatesMOUNT Hubbard is one of the mighty peaks marking the boundary between Yukon Territory and Alaska. Though not the highest of the St. Elias Mountains, it is very prominent, and it commands superb view...
The Golden Age of Mountaineering is still with us on great, impressive faces in the Wind River Range. The 1,800-foot north face of Mount Hooker was one of the better-known, though not the only one of these unclimbed walls. After a week of climb...
A.A.C., Alaska Section. The year 1983 was another active one for Alaskan mountaineering. It began with more new ice climbs being found in the Valdez and Anchorage areas, and with Section members attempting winter ascents including Mounts Illiamna ...
Gordoghan Zom attempt. Our goal was to climb Buni Zom mountain (6,551m) in the Hindukush range of northwest Pakistan. The nearest access is from the village of Harchin, located about 120 km from Chitral, on the Gilgit road. Our expedition consiste...
In July I returned to Kyrgyzstan for the third time, my main goal being to explore more of the Torugart-too and in particular to push further along the Fergana range, an extension of the Torugart-too running northwest along the divide between the ...
Shivling West Summit. After establishing Base Camp at Tapovan on September 1, Dan Jenkins, Austin Weiss and I lazed about for nine days. On September 10, we hiked to the base of our route and bivouacked in a beautiful meadow. The next morning, we ...
Mount Cruiser, West Face. In July, 1959 Don Anderson and Roy Harniss made the first ascent of this face, which was consistently class 4 and required iron for safety on occasional leads. The ascent was completed in six hours.Mount Cruiser, West Fac...
Everest, First Ascent by a Nepalese Woman and Tragedy. The first to climb Everest from Nepal in the pre-monsoon were Nepalese, who reached the top on April 22 via the South Col and southeast ridge. There had been drama from the very inception of t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Columbia Hill State Park, Horsethief ButteOn Sunday April 5, Tony Silva (30), a Gresham Oregon Police Detective, his sister-in-law Laura (26), and her husband, Bobby Silva, along with three young chil...
Mt. Rainier. On January 12th, 1936, Delmar Fadden of Seattle, an Eagle Scout, started on a solo ascent of Mt. Rainier from the north. This summit has never been climbed in January which is the poorest time of year for such an enterprise. A week la...
Gangotri II. Indians led by Salil Joshi climbed Gangotri II (6577 meters, 21,513 feet) on May 30. Summiters were A.B. Narajia, Pradip Rever, Ravji Rathod, Babubhai Barnda and Lal Bahadur.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal