P6352, Seta Glacier, 1988. On June 9, 1988, Mukul Mukhopadhay, Dilip Chakrabarty and I made the first ascent of P 6352 (20,840 feet) at the head of the Seta Glacier. We established Base Camp on Vasuki Tal in late May. Two camps were placed on the ...
The Fin, West Face. This strenuous class 4 and 5 rock climb was first done in July by Roy Harniss and Don Anderson. The ascent is fairly short but touchy.
Echo Tower. Fisher Towers. Nestled against the La Sal Mountains, not far from the Colorado River east of Moab, lies the pink and orange skyscraper city of the Fisher Towers, weird, bizarre shapes honed strangely by the desert wind. Fragile ridges ...
Jogin I and III. An Indian expedition led by Animesh Bose climbed both of these peaks. Base Camp was set up at Kedar Tal at 15,500 feet on May 26. On May 31, Guha Neogy, P. Roy, S. Seal, Nima Tashi with porters Chandra Bahadur and Dorje Sherpa rea...
Chopicalqui. Matej Megli climbed a line on the west face of Chopicalqui (6345 meters), reaching the south ridge at an altitude of 5800 meters. He did not continue to the summit. He encountered snow up to 65° to 75° on the 600-meter climb, which he...
Half-Dome, Northwest Face, Zenith. Zenith follows a line between Tis-sa-ack and Bushido. It joins Tis-sa-ask’s famous bolt ladder near the top. Jim Bridwell and I climbed the route in July. We watched two helicopter rescues and about fifteen ascen...
Gunsight (main summit), Southwest Arête. On August 2 Gary Brill, Carl Skoog and I made this climb. Crossing the Chickamin Glacier, we tackled the obvious face which lies below the buttress and makes up the lower third of the route. By ascending th...
El Capitan, Solo Ascent of the West Buttress. From April 21 to May 1, I made a solo ascent of El Capitan’s west buttress via the classic Kor-Roper route. The first five days were straightforward climbing through the lower face’s wet jam-cracks and...
The Chileans Eduardo García, Cedomir Marangunic, Francisco Vivanco and I left Punta Arenas on the Chilean Naval Patrol Ship Lientur on January 18, 1962, and were landed near the entrance of Bahía Broken, south of Seno Almirantazgo on the next morn...
Mount Heyburn, North Face of East Peak, Sawtooth Range. Probably the most accessible of all Sawtooth peaks, Mount Heyburn has, strangely, seen little of the technical climber. Jerry Fuller and I climbed the north buttress of the west peak several ...
Valle Encantado, Various Ascents. Since April, 1995, some new ascents have been made in this attractive and off-the-beaten-track area near Bariloche. Eduardo Lopez, Pablo Muller, Walter Rossini, Sebastian Mazzaro and Pablo Pontoriero did the secon...
Huantsán, North Face, New Route. Slovenian climbers Grega Lacen, Matej Flis and Iztok Mihev climbed a new route on the north face of Huantsan (6395m). They entered the face on June 29 at midnight and reached the top at 8 p.m. the next day. They ar...
Koh-e-Bandaka. The Aichigakuin University Expedition climbed Koh-e- Bandaka (22,451 feet). Masami Namikawa was leader, Takuro Sakai headed scientific research and Michio Yuasa was climbing leader. Others were Hajime Hanamura, Yoshitaka Kuromiya, N...
STRANDED, FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDVirginia, Seneca RocksIn early April, a climber (age unknown) started soloing a chimney on the West Face of the North Peak. He got up 15 or 20 feet and decided that he would rather have a rope, so his partn...
Trois Curés en Montagne, by Jean Sarenne. 234 pages and 15 illustrations. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1950.Chance encounter with copies of La Montagne arouses a passion that drives its subjects from humble beginnings on a local hillside to acq...
Monte Balmaceda Attempt. I accompanied a nine-member expedition of the Federación de Andinismo de Chile to the east-northeastern side of Monte Balmaceda (2050 meters, 6726 feet) in Chilean Patagonia in February. The members were Claudio Gálvez, le...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCENew Hampshire, Frankenstein CliffsOn January 18, 1985, a climber took a leader fall on Standard, sustaining a broken ankle and neck injury. With the help of other climbers and the use of a New Hampsh...
P 5036, P 5716, P 6781, P 7023 and P 7709, Thompson Ridge, Chugach Mountains. In May, a joint St. Elias Alpine Guides and American Alpine Institute expedition led by Bob Jacobs spent eight days in the Bagley Icefield region. From a 5100-foot camp ...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A team of eight Britons, an American and a New Zealander, led by Steven Berry, attempted to climb Cho Oyu by ascending the right side of the south face to the east ridge. They established four camps on the face, the highest at 23,...
In August, Jim Earl and I established a new route up the 1,000- meter north face of Nevado Ulta. The route begins on the left side of the northwest bowl (sometimes called the north bowl), starting farther left than the Berube-Frimer 2002 attempt, ...